
AT FF.BMOY. 




I oridon : Printed b 



•'-. Spottiswoode, New-Street-Square 









i. S] ottiswoode, New-Street-Square 



v 



TO 



SIR RICHARD MUSGRAVE, BARONET, 

Of Tour in, County Waterford, 

WHOSE PATRIOTISM AND PERSEVERANCE 

SUCCESSFULLY CONTRIBUTED TO ACHIEVE FOR THE BLACKWATER 

INLAND NAVIGATION, 



W&\% OTorfc, 



ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE HISTORY AND SCENERY OF THIS NOBLE RIVER, 



IS, BY PERMISSION, 



MOST RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED. 




PREFACE. 




:>% L ^ a meetm g °f the British Association for the Advancement 
of Science, held at Cork in August, 1843, the author read a 
paper on the Statistics of the River Black water, the object 
of which was to aid the laudable endeavours of the Earl of 
Mountcashel and Sir Richard Musgrave in rendering this 
beautiful river available for the purposes of inland navigation. The essay 
having met with the approval of the meeting, the author was solicited to 
extend his inquiries ; and, embodying the substance of the essay, to prepare 
the present work for the use of strangers visiting the picturesque district of 
the Blackwater. 

Considerable encouragement was afforded him by the nobility and gentry 
of this country and Great Britain, in subscribing their names for copies ; and 
from many connected with the localities information of a very useful cha- 
racter has been furnished. 

For the kind assistance he has generally received, the author tenders his 
acknowledgments. His thanks are especially due to the Rev. James Mockler 



IV 



PREFACE. 



of Rockview, and the venerable and Reverend Matthew Horgan, the parish 
priest of Blarney ; to his legal brethren, J. D' Alton and J. K. O'Donoghue, 
Esqrs., for many valuable hints ; to the Rev. Samuel Hayman for much 
interesting matter respecting the ancient house of Raleigh ; and to Mr. 
Windele of Cork for the result of his antiquarian researches. 

The author more particularly acknowledges the kindness of his friend 
Dr. W. Cooke Taylor, in superintending the passage of the work through 
the press, and the hearty support afforded him from the commencement of 
the undertaking by Sir Richard Musgrave. 

54. Blessington Street, Dublin, 
May 25. 1844. 




SUBSCRIBERS. 



Those marked with an Asterisk (*) are Subscribers for Large Paper Copies. 



*His Excellency Earl De Grey, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. 

*Abercromby, Sir Robert, Bart, Birkenbog, Banffshire, and Fermoy, Ireland. Three Copies. 

* Armagh, the Dean of, Glenville, County Cork. 
*Anster, John, LL.D., Barrister- at-Law, Dublin. 

*Bandon, the Right Hon. the Earl of. 

*Bandon, the Right Hon. the Countess of. 

*Baldwin, Henry, Esq., Q.C., Assistant Barrister, East Riding, County Cork. 

*Barry, James, Esq., Ballyclough, County Cork. Two Copies. 

Bayley, Thomas Way, Esq., Barrister, Dublin. 
*Becher, Sir W. Wrixon, Bart., Ballygiblin, County Cork. 
*Bianconi, Charles, Esq., Clonmell. 
*Boyse, Thomas, Esq., Bannow. 

* Browne, Stephen, Esq., A.B., Devonshire Square, Bandon. 
*Butt, Isaac, Esq., Barrister-at-Law, and Alderman, Dublin. 

*Carbery, the Right Hon. Lord. Three Copies (one large and two small). 

* Campion, Rev. Robert S., D.D., Knockmourn Parsonage. 
*Campbell, Arthur J., Esq., Barrister, 13. Harcoui't Street, Dublin. 

* Carroll, Richard, Esq., Fermoy. 

*Clanchy, John Daniel, Esq., Barrister, 21. Grenville Street, Dublin. 
*Collins, Rev. D., C.R., Mallow. 
Coppinger, Francis, Esq., Gardiner Street, Dublin. 

* Corbet, E., Esq., Barrister, Dublin. 
Cuffe, Mr. D. B., Blessington Street, Dublin. 

*Curry, F. E. Esq., Lismore Castle, County Waterford. 
Curtin, Mrs. C, Carrigoon House, Mallow. 



VI SUBSCRIBERS. 



* Devonshire, His Grace the Duke of. 

*D' Alton, John, Esq., Barrister, 58. Summer Hill, Dublin. 

*Daly, Rev. E., C.R., Kilworth, County Cork. 

*Davis, Thomas, Esq., Barrister, Dublin. 

*Deane, Sir Thomas, Cork. 

*Denneby, Thomas, Esq., Bellevue, Fermoy. 

*Denneby, Francis, Esq., Brooklodge, Fermoy. 

*Dilworth, Rev. Daniel, R.C.C., Fermoy. 

*Eliot, Right Hon. Lord, M.P., Chief Secretary for Ireland. 

*Ffrench, Right Hon. Lord, Ffrench Park. 

* Fitzgerald, Richard Albert, Esq., Muckridge House, Youghal. 
*Fitzgerald, Horace, Esq., Barrister, North Great George Street, Dublin. 

* Fitzgerald, John D. Esq., Barrister, Merrion Square. 
Fitzgerald, J. Lloyd, Esq., Barrister, Merrion Square. 

* Fitzgerald, Thomas J., Esq., Ballinaparka. 
*Fortescue, The Right Hon. Earl. 

*Galway, Thomas, Esq., Barrister, Dublin. 
*Geran, Mrs., Fermoy. 
*Glissan, William Matthias, Esq. 

* Glover, Edward, Esq., Barrister, Dublin. 

*Gourley, D. de la Cherirs, Esq., M.D., Madely, Shropshire. 

* Green, R.W., Esq., Q.C., Solicitor General, Stephen's Green. 
*Green, James S., Esq., Barrister, Bagot Street, Dublin. 

* Graham, George, Esq., Rutland Square, Dublin. 

*Hindley, Matthias, Esq., Mount Rivers, Fermoy. 
*Henn, Jonathan, Esq., Q.C., Merrion Street, Dublin. 
*Hennessy, Michael, Esq., Cork. 

Horgan, Rev. Matt., P.P., Blarney. Two Copies. 
*Homan, Sir William, Bart. 

* Hudson, William Elliott, Esq., Barrister, Fitzwilliam Street. 

Jennings, S., Esq., Cork. 

* Jones, Mrs. J., Mallow. 

*Keane, Rev. W., C.R., Middleton. 
*Kildare, The Most Noble The Marquis of. 

* Kirby, John, Esq., Fermoy. 

* Leinster, His Grace The Duke of. 
*Listowel, The Right Honourable The Earl of. 
*Lane, Denny, Esq., Barrister, Hume Street, Dublin. 

*Lawson, J. A., Barrister, Professor of Political Economy, T. C, Dublin. 
Lynch, Mr., Engineer Department, Fermoy. 



SUBSCRIBERS. 



* Mountcashel, The Right Honourable the Earl of, Moore Park, Kilworth. 

* Morpeth, Viscount. 

* Maley, Andrew J., Esq., Barrister, 9. Merrion Square South. 

* Martin, Richard Elmour, Esq., Barrister, York Street. 
*Mahony, Pierce, Esq. 

* MacCarthy, Florence, Esq., Barrister, Dublin, and Whitepoint House, Co. Waterford. 
*Miley, Rev. John, D.D., Metropolitan Chapel House. 

Moore, William, Esq., Moore Hill. 

* Morrogh, Edmond, Esq., Church Street, lfermoy. 

* Murphy, Rev. T., C.R., Fermoy. 

* Murphy, Jeremiah J. , Esq., Q. C, Fitzwilliam Street, Dublin. 

* Musgrave, Sir Richard, Bart., Tourin. Fifty Copies. 

* Nagle, James, Esq., Middleton, Co. Cork. 
Nagle, David, Esq., Cork. 

* Norreys, Sir Denham, Bart., M.P., Mallow Castle, Co. Cork. 

*0'Connell, Daniel, Esq., M.P. 

* O'Connell, Morgan John, Esq., M.P. 

* O'Donevan, Rev. M., R.C.C., Fermoy. 

* O'Flanagan, J. F., Esq., Barrack- Master, Fermoy. 
O'Flanagan, William Augustin, Esq., Fermoy. 
O'Flanagan, John, Esq., Fermoy. 
O'Flanagan, Patrick, Esq., Cork. 

* O'Hagan, Thomas, Esq., Barrister, Dublin. 

*0'Loghlen, Sir Colmer M., Bart, Merrion Square and Drumconora. 
O'Leary, Joseph, Esq., Barrister, Dublin. 

* O'Neil, John, Esq., M.D., Fermoy. 
*0'Sullivan, Andrew, Esq., Queen Square, Fermoy. 
*0'Sullivan, John, Esq., Queen Square, Fermoy. 
*Otway, John Hastings, Esq., Barrister, Leeson Street, Dublin. 

Perrott, Richard, Esq., Cork. 

* Plunkett, James, Esq., Barrister, Mountjoy Square, Dublin. 

* Rosse, The Right Honourable the Earl of, President of the British Association during 

the Cork Meeting. 

* Roche, Edmund Burke, Esq., M.P. 

* Roche, Nicholas W., Esq., Fermoy. 
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Ryder, Michael Wood, Esq., Barrister, Dublin. 

* Shrewsbury, Waterford, and Wexford, The Right Honourable the Earl of. Two 

Copies (one large, one small paper)- 

* Smyth, Henry, Esq., J. P., Richmond, Fermoy. 

Smyth, Constantine, Esq., Barrister, Mount Street, Dublin. 



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* Steele, Thomas, Esq. 
Stock, Serjeant, M.P. 

* Stuart, De Decies, Lord, Dromana, Co. Waterford. 
Sugden, Sir E. B., Lord Chancellor of Ireland. 

* Taylor, W. Cooke, Esq., LL.D., London. 

* Tench, Gerald, Esq., Harcourt Street, Dublin. 

* Tighe, Robert, Esq., Assistant Barrister, Co. Limerick, Fitzwilliam Square. 

* Walsh, Francis Andrew, Esq. , Barrister, Cork. 
Walsh, Charles, Esq., Sunday's Well, Cork. 

Woodroffe, Charles Henry, Esq., Barrister, Ely Place, Dublin. 



SUBSCRIBERS. 



* Steele, Thomas, Esq. 
Stock, Serjeant, M.P. 

* Stuart, De Decies, Lord, Dromana, Co. Waterford. 
Sugden, Sir E. B., Lord Chancellor of Ireland. 

* Taylor, W. Cooke, Esq., LL.D., London. 

* Tench, Gerald, Esq., Harcourt Street, Dublin. 

* Tighe, Robert, Esq., Assistant Barrister, Co. Limerick, Fitzwilliam Square. 

* Walsh, Francis Andrew, Esq. , Barrister, Cork. 
Walsh, Charles, Esq., Sunday's Well, Cork. 

Woodroffe, Charles Henry, Esq., Barrister, Ely Place, Dublin. 



Lj££jfebM<£ ,„i 




EWES1 BLACBWATE 

AN D 

ITS VICINITY. 




HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE 
GUIDE 



TO 



THE KIVER BLACKWATEB, 

IN MUNSTER. 



THE RIVER. 

There are few localities in the British Islands so rich in picturesque scenery, 
historical associations, and monumental remains, as the valley of the Blackwater ; 
and there is probably none possessing an equal variety of attractions for the 
geologist, the artist, the antiquarian, and the political economist. Difficulty of access, 
arising not from natural obstacles, but from want of conveyances, long secluded 
its beauties from all but such ardent Tourists as could dispense with the means 
and appliances of modern travel, who did not reject the clumsy market-boat 
because it wanted the luxuries of the trim steamer, and who could trust to their 
own legs, relieved by an occasional "lift" on an Irish car, over by-roads and 
bridle-paths which had never experienced the improvements of M'Adam. The 
exertions made to open this beautiful valley by roads along its sides and by a 
regular system of river-navigation have directed a large share of public attention 
to its varied attractions. The summer Tourists who come to explore this new 
region of picturesque landscape and mediaeval history ; the speculative travellers, 
who love to examine the natural resources of a country, and the patriots who are 
anxious that those resources should be developed to stimulate the industry and 
foster the prosperity of a noble race of peasantry, are naturally curious to know 
something of the ruined abbeys and mouldering castles which stud the entire 
range of the valley, interspersed as they are amid thriving towns and villages, and 
baronial halls and country-seats of a resident nobility and gentry. The stern 
magnificence of ancient ruins mingling with the luxurious elegance of modern 
architecture seems to require the aid of a friendly and familiar guide ; as such the 
author offers himself, his dearest wish being to direct the attention to the means 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



lavishly provided by nature to render Ireland prosperous — his best reward, the 
consciousness of having contributed in any way to advance its welfare. 

The river Blackwater, (in Irish, Awin Dubh,) is generally Awenmore or Avon- 
more, that is, "the Broad-water," by the native Irish. Spenser, however, in his 
Faery Queen, mentions it by a name which comes very near the Irish of its pre- 
sent appellation — 

" Swift Auniduff, -which of the Englishman 
Is named Blackwater." 

In a charter of James I. it is described as " the river Blackwater, called other- 
wise Broadwater ;" and it has been plausibly conjectured that the first name has 
reference to the darkness of the waters in the upper course of the river, and that 
the latter name is descriptive of the widening of the stream as it approaches the 
sea. In a statistical account of the river, read at the fourteenth meeting of the 
British Association in Cork, I stated that the name " Blackwater was probably taken 
from the limestone pebbles and black flints which during the greater part of its 
course form its bed ;" but in the discussion that ensued the Earl of Mountcashel 
attributed both the name and the colour of the water to the river having its source 
in a bog ; and this I find to be the opinion generally entertained in the country. 

As this work is designed principally for the use of Tourists, I shall describe the 
scenery on the banks of the river as it offers itself in the ascent of the stream. 
Before entering on the description of scenery, however, it will be convenient to 
enumerate in the order of descent the several tributaries which swell the stream of 
the Blackwater before it falls into the Atlantic. 

During its entire course, a distance of seventy-five miles, the Blackwater runs 
through a country rife with historic recollections, and diversified so agreeably as 
to offer an abundant field to the lover of the picturesque ; whether he delights in 
the quiet landscape of wood and water — sunny slopes crowned by tasteful man- 
sions — or prefers the bolder prospect of the rapid flood, foaming round the base 
of the rock sustaining the solitary Castle, the massive walls of which seem to 
mock time in their strength, and long destined to survive the names of those who 
reared them. At one place the banks are richly wooded — at another the river 
glides through a plain of corn and meadow-land — now beneath frowning moun- 
tains, steep and barren — anon midst fertile, smiling valleys. Memorials of the 
piety or chivalry of by-gone years are frequent along the river, and add to the 
natural beauty of the scene ; while populous towns, or quiet hamlets, mark the 
abodes of men. 

The source of the Blackwater is in a bog, near the boundaries of Cork and 
Kerry. It runs in a tolerably direct course from west to east, until it reaches 
Cappoquin, when it bends suddenly, and runs due south to the sea. In its pro- 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



gress it has many tributaries. At Drishane it receives the Fin Aion, or White 
River ; and- Bacool, a rapid mountain flood, which runs down from the hills of 
Muskerry. The Bantyre, having its source in the Boggra hills, joins it west of 
Clonmeen. The Clydagh, which also rises in the Boggra, runs into the Black- 
water, after forming the bounds on the east of the parish of Kilshanick. All 
these pour in their waters on the south side. On the north it receives the Oon 
Araglin, near the ruined church of Cullin, and close to Kanturk the Oon Dalue, 
or Double Rapid River; this washes thelbase of a hill yet bearing a mouldering 
ruin, called Castle M'Auliffe. At Bridgetown, a beautiful stream, the Awbeg, or 
Mulla of Spenser, joins. Nearly eight miles further, the Funcheon, a considerable 
river, falls into it underneath Mount Rivers ; and about half a mile further east, 
the Ariglen, at a place called Ballyderoon, having the same signification as Messo- 
potamia, i. e. the town between two rivers. These are its tributaries in county Cork. 
In the adjoining county Waterford, it unites with the Bride, the Finesk (in Irish 
Fion uisge, or Fairwater), the Owbeg, the Corish, and River Licky. 

The entire line of country through which the Blackwater glides is remarkable 
for scenic beauty, and it may afford some interest to the antiquarian to learn that 
this was one of the fair vales of Ireland, coveted by the wife of Heber, which 
produced the war ending in the loss of her husband's life and kingdom. 

Heber, or Hiber (from whom probably Ireland derived its name of Hibernia) and 
Heremon, were brothers, sons of Milesius, king of Spain. Having invaded Ireland, 
and defeated the Tuatha-du-Danaans, they divided the kingdom between them : 
Leinster and Munster were assigned to Heber, the elder, whilst Ulster and Con- 
naught became the portion of Heremon. There was also a third brother, 
Armegin ; and they were accompanied by a harper. Armegin was a poet ; and 
the bardic legends record the two kings cast lots which should have the poet, and 
which the harper, who accompanied the expedition from Spain. The chance gave 
the poet to Heremon, and the harper to Heber ; whence the reason assigned for 
the Northerns to excel in poetry, and the Southerns in music, to this day. * 
Moore, however, considers this brother Armegin to have had duties assigned 
without reference to either kingdom ; Armegin, according to him, was chief bard, 
who presided as minister over the respective departments of Law, Poetry, and 
Religion. He was also, according to O'Reilly, who wrote on the Brehon laws, 
Brehon, or lawgiver of the colony, likewise a poet and philosopher. In this 
appointment of arch-bard we have the origin and source of those metrical legis- 
lative enactments and chronicles that form so prominent a part in the early history 
of this country. Armegin wrote a poem, giving an account of his arrival at 
Inver-Colpa. It is preserved in the Books of Ballymote and Lecan, and in the 



D' Alton's Hist. Drogheda. 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



Book of the Invasion. He fell in battle. The power of bards is thus stated in 
the Book of Ballymote (f. 77.): — "A bard, whose only son had been killed in 
battle by the Lagenians, having continued for a full year after to satirize that 
people, brought fatalities upon them, so that neither corn, grass, nor foliage, grew 
for them during that year." 

Peace was not long permitted to the country under the new dynasty. A beau- 
tiful valley in the territories assigned to Heremon was the cause of the quarrel 
which arose. The particulars are thus stated by Keating, in his History of Ire- 
land : — " The occasion of the dispute was the possession of three of the most 
delightful valleys in the whole island : two of these * lay in the division of Heber 
Fion, and he received the profits of them ; but his wife, being a woman of great 
pride and ambition, envied the wife of Heremon the enjoyment of her delightful 
valley, and therefore persuaded her husband to demand the valley of Heremon ; 
and, upon a refusal, to gain possession of it by the sword ; for she passionately 
vowed she never would be satisfied till she was called the queen of the three 
most fruitful valleys in the island." Alas ! for mankind, that woman's gentle 
nature should be distorted and inflamed by pride and wild ambition, engendered 
by envy and jealousy. Female influence over men, when desire to please pre- 
dominates, is undeniably potent — all consideration, save the accomplishment of 
the wish of the loved one, is entirely lost sight of, and thus injustice is done — 
the most sacred ties are violated — most disastrous woes produced, to gratify 
the caprice or whim of some thoughtless and inconsiderate object of attachment. 
The refusal of Heremon to comply with the wish of his brother's queen, and 
part with his territory, led to a battle between them on the plains of Giesiol, 
where Heber lost his life, leaving Heremon sole possessor of the kingdom. 

The late Mr. Inglis in his accurate work, entitled, "Ireland in 1834," thus 
adverts to the scenery of our river : — " We have had descents of the Danube, 
and descents of the Rhine, and the Rhone, and of many other rivers ; but we 
have not in print, as far as I know, any descent of the Blackwater ; and yet 
with all these descents of foreign rivers in my recollection, / think the descent of 
the Blackivater not surpassed by any of them. A detail of all that is seen 
in gliding down the Blackwater from Cappoquin to Youghal would fill a long 
chapter : there is every combination that can be produced by the elements that 
enter into the picturesque and the beautiful ; dee}) shades — bold rocks — ver- 
dant slopes — with the triumphs of art superadded, and made visible in magni- 
ficent houses and beautiful villas, with their decorated lawns and pleasure-grounds." 
In Mr. and Mrs. Hall's interesting and valuable work lately published, " Ireland, 
its Scenery, Character," &c, the river is thus mentioned : — " From the source 

* These were the valley of the Blackwater and the Golden Vale in Tipperary. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



of this fine river, in Slieve Lougher, one of the Kerry mountains, to its mouth at 
Youghal, it passes through a large extent of country, nearly every portion of 
which is closely and often painfully associated with the history of Ireland. The 
banks are for the most part wooded ; at times the river runs through fine, fertile, 
and productive valleys ; at others it winds at the base of or between huge and 
barren mountains, but everywhere affording pleasure, at least to the lovers of the 
picturesque. Every now and then the interest of the scenery is enhanced, and 
the records of the neighbourhood are illustrated by some ruin of castle or church ; 
very many of the strongest of the former, and the most famous of the latter, lying 
broken and covered by weeds in the graceful glens or toppling cliffs that skirt the 
sides or overhang the river." 

I might go on adducing similar notices of the scenery I have undertaken to 
describe, but prefer the Tourist to judge for himself, and mention the foregoing 
as instancing the gap in our topographical literature which I have laboured to fill. 
Mr. Inglis was correct in his remark. There was no description of the Black- 
water in print until the present ; and if my account satisfy the public, that my 
childhood's rapid river competes in attraction with the Rhine, the Rhone, or the 
Danube, my labours will be sweetly repaid. The second notice shows how much 
history is mingled with scenic description. Compiling this part was quite a 
labour of love. Surrounded by the fine collection of Irish works, which my 
father's national taste placed at my command, I felt not the hours passing while I 
gleaned the materials for my volume. Some errors may have been committed ; 
but they ought to be pardoned : they are not wilful, for I spared no pains to 
insure correctness, and examine every authority bearing on my subject. 

The grassy court — the mossy wall — 
Vault — barbacan, and turret tall ; 

With weeds that have o'ergrown them : 
Though silent as the desert air, 
Yet have their eloquence, and bear 

Mortality upon them. 

Yes ! these are talismans that break 
The sleep of visions, and awake 

Long silent recollections ; 
That kindle in the mental eye 
Romantic feelings long gone by, 

And glowing retrospections. — Anon. 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



YOUGHAL. 

Youghal, the seaport where the Blackwater loses itself in the ocean's waves, is 
town of great antiquity and importance. It is a borough, returning one member 





to the imperial parliament, and contains a population of about 10,000. This 
place, formerly called Ochill, a woody spot, is supposed to have been built in a 
forest, and named by the first settlers Phoenicians, from the appearance it presented 
as they sailed by it.* 

This town was incorporated, in the year 1209, by King John. In 1224, 
Maurice Fitzgerald founded a Franciscan monastery in Youghal. The occasion of 
its establishment is said to have originated in the following circumstances : — The 
chieftain was building a castle in the town, and while at work on the foundation, 
the workmen, on the eve of some festival, came and begged a piece of money from 
him to drink his health. The chieftain ordered his eldest son to give it ; but he, 
instead of obeying his father's direction, abused the workmen, which his father 
was so concerned at, that, instead of carrying on the castle, he erected a house of 
Grey Friars, took upon himself the habit, and died here in the eightieth year of 



* Smith's Hist. Cork, vol. i. p. 101. id. 109. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



his age, a. d. 1256. This is believed to have been the first Franciscan friary in 
Ireland. In 1317, Sir Roger Mortimer, Lord Justice, landed here, with thirty-eight 
knights, and in a short time forced Edward Bruce to retreat from this neighbour- 
hood, and seek refuge in Ulster. The town suffered much in the Avars of the Earl 
of Desmond ; for, in 1579, he plundered it, and carried off the property to his 
castles of Strancally, and Lisfinny, co. Waterford. The Earl of Ormonde, re- 
ceiving intelligence of this attack, sent a ship from Waterford with troops, which 
entered the town, but, being overpowered by the forces of the Seneschal of Imo- 
killy, most of them were killed, and the remainder escaped with difficulty. The 
devastation to which the town was exposed left it quite desolate, not a man 
staying in it except one poor friar ; but on the retreat of the insurgents, in 1580, 
the inhabitants were invited to return, a garrison of 300 men being left for their 
protection. The mayor, who, before the incursion, had perfidiously refused to 
receive an English garrison, promising to defend the place to the last extremity, 
but who, instead of keeping his promise, yielded the town to Desmond, was taken, 
and hanged at his own door. 

In 1582, the Seneschal of Imokilly assaulted Youghal, but was repulsed, with 
the loss of fifty of his men. In 1641, it again became the scene of war. The 
Earl of Cork shut himself up in the town, and defended it against the insurgents 
at his own expense, with 1000 foot and 60 horse, in addition to which, the towns- 
men maintained fifteen companies. The besieged received succours in 1642, Sir 
Charles Vavasour, with his regiment of 1000 men, landed with some difficulty. 
The earl held sessions here soon after, at which the insurgent chiefs were indicted 
for high treason. The Earl of Cork died the year after in this town. In 1644 
the native Irish were expelled, and their property seized. In 1645 it was again 
besieged by the Earl of Castlehaven, but the defenders held out until Lord Brog- 
hill arrived, and the siege was raised. When Cromwell visited Youghal, in 1649, 
the inhabitants embraced the cause of Parliament, and the Lord Protector made 
it his head-quarters during the winter. After the siege of Clonmel he returned, 
and embarked here for England. By letters patent under the privy seal, dated 
February 14. 1660, their estates and franchises were restored to such of the 
inhabitants, being " innocent Papists," who had been deprived of them during 
Cromwell's usurpation. On the 2d August, 1690, Youghal surrendered to King 
William III., who marched southward after the battle of the Boyne. The import- 
ance of taking Youghal appeared during the continuance of the siege of Limerick, 
as it was a check upon the garrison of Cork, and the wandering troops called 
Rapparees. On the 9th August, the governor of Youghal marched to Castle 
Martyr, where he defeated a large number of men with a few troops, and seized 
the castle. In 1696, the townsmen of Youghal, having manned a boat with forty 
seamen and soldiers, took a French privateer that lay at anchor under Cable 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



Island. In 1711, the corporation of Youghal transmitted a loyal and affectionate 
address to Queen Anne. In 1789, his late Majesty William IV., then Prince 
William Henry, visited Youghal, as commander of the Pegasus ; and on the 
occasion of honouring the corporation with his presence at dinner, was presented 
with the freedom of the borough. 

When the first Earl of Cork purchased from Sir Walter Raleigh the grants he 
had obtained of the monastic and other lands forfeited in Elizabeth's reign, he 
adopted the policy of colonising the towns in the vicinity of the Blackwater with 
settlers from England, chiefly from Gloucestershire, Somersetshire, and Devon- 
shire. Of these settlers, the greater part had adopted Puritan principles, which 
exposed them to ecclesiastical penalties at home ; they were in the great civil war 
the most decided enemies of the Stuarts, and it was the timely adhesion of Youg- 
hal to the parliamentary cause which relieved Cromwell from the difficulties in 
which he was placed by the obstinate defence of Clonmel. Like most of the 
Puritans, those who settled in Youghal were firm believers in witchcraft, and 
tradition preserves the memory of several unhappy persons burned at the stake 
during the presence of this delusion. Glanvil's curious collection contains the 
trial of one of the Youghal witches, Florence Newton ; and it is one of the most 
singular exhibitions of credulity and barbarity recorded in the melancholy annals 
of the witch-mania. Some of the peculiarities of puritanism are still to be found 
in the families descended from the original Puritans ; but the most palpable monu- 
ment of such rigidity is the venerable old church, the interior of which when last 
repaired was stripped of its collegiate character, and assimilated as much as 
possible to the severe plainness of the conventicle. Many of the followers of 
Cromwell and of William III., attracted by similarity of sentiment, in the families 
of the previous colonists, settled in or near Youghal, which with Bandon was long 
regarded as the great stronghold of what was called the Protestant interest in the 
south of Ireland. Several of the early settlers had been companions of Raleigh 
in his expeditions against the Spaniards, and there are some faint traces of their 
having kept up their old connection with the buccaneers. During several 
generations the spirit of naval adventure was rife in their families, and during the 
wars in the first half of the last century several privateers were fitted out and 
manned from Youghal, the crews of which were celebrated for their desperate 
bravery, which set all odds at defiance. Even so late as the last French war, 
Youghal sailors were distinguished in the navy by their readiness to defy the 
perils of storm and battle. 

The bay of Youghal, included between Knockadoon and Ardmore Head, is a 
noble expanse of water, but affords no protection to ships, except the harbour of 
Youghal. That harbour, as already mentioned, is strongly barred, and the depth 
of water on the bar has decreased within the period of ascertained history ; for we 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



find that in 1 649 several parliamentary frigates entered the harbour, and were 
moored opposite the town. It would be dangerous for vessels of such size and bur- 
then to attempt a passage at present. To the eye of the geologist the harbour presents 
evidences of having undergone still greater changes, and the traditions of the 
people and the Irish names of several localities singularly confirm the conclusions 
to which the deductions of science point. The long strand to the south of the town 
is a submarine forest, and peat-bog, worn by the sea, at some distant but not very 
remote age, speaking geologically, and the silent encroachments of ocean still con- 
tinue ; so that if some barrier, similar to the dykes of Holland, be not constructed, 
there can be little doubt but that at some future time the sea will win the flat bog 
by which it is at present skirted, and the waves roll to the very foot of the range 
of hills beyond. We have seen vast quantities of peat, or, as it is called in 
Ireland, turf, raised for fuel on this strand, between high-water and low-water 
mark. Trees of immense size have been also dug up, and on some of these, nuts 
have been found in such a state of preservation, that on opening them the kernel 
was distinctly perceptible. A very perfect nut-tree was recently dug up, close to 
the low- water mark, and on it not merely the fruit but the leaves were perfect in 
every thing but colour. The horns of the Irish elk, and the bones of other animals, 
have been dug up amid the trees on this part of the strand, thus affording indis- 
putable evidence of the encroachments of the ocean. Old people state, that within 
their recollection, the remains of some buildings might be seen under the water 
when the tide was very low. Finally, there is a tradition that Capel Island, which 
is now about a mile distant from the head-land of Knockadoon, was once so close 
to it that it could be reached by stepping-stones ; but this is a tradition too vague 
to warrant founding any argument on it. 

Opposite the town of Youghal there is a projecting spot of sand called the ferry- 
point, which is traditionally said to have extended at one time half way across the 
river, and which undoubtedly has been within the memory of man much more 
extensive than it is at present, persons now alive remembering it to have been a 
large and profitable rabbit-warren. Higher up than this is the creek of Pilltown, 
from which a flat valley, in many places as low as the sea-level, runs to Whiting 
Bay, and this bay is still called by an Irish name, which signifies " the mouth of 
the river." The narrow valley running from Pilltown to Whiting Bay is incon- 
testably of alluvial or lacustrine formation, and in the part of Whiting Bay 
immediately adjoining Ardmore, it is evident that the sea would now inundate a 
portion of the valley, but for a high bank of shingle which forms the strand. The 
positive testimony of an ancient author singularly confirms the theory that the 
Blackwater, or at least a branch of it, anciently discharged itself into the sea in 
the vicinity of Ardmore, to which Whiting Bay closely adjoins ; for Necham 
says — 



10 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



Urbem Lismore pertransit flumen Avenmore. 
Ardmore cernit ubi fervidus scquor adit ; 

which Dr. Smith, more literally than poetically, translates, 

By Lismore town the Avenmore doth flow, 
And Ardmore sees it to the water go. 

Ptolemy mentions the river by the name of Daurona, but gives no particulars 
respecting its course and termination. 

Taking all these circumstances into consideration, and comparing them with 
the present aspect of the country, we are led to the following conclusions, which 
will be found to agree in their results with the accounts given by geologists of the 
changes in the embouchures of several rivers in America. The broad of Youghal, 
or wide space into which the river expands below Rhincrew and above the town, 
must be regarded as originally a lake bounded by wooded swamps ; indeed it retains 
much of the character of a lake at the present day. From this the water flowed 
to the sea by two channels, of which the larger, or at least the more navigable, 
flowed through the valley that now ends in Whiting Bay, and hence arose the 
ancient importance of Ardmore, now an insignificant village, but once so important 
as to have been a bishop's see. The closing of the mouth of the Whiting Bay 
branch was probably gradual ; but it may have been accelerated by some violent 
storm, or other convulsion of nature, and the river then worked out for itself a 
wider channel through the Youghal branch, at the same time a greater tidal 
action was brought to bear on the swampy forest, which is partly submerged be- 
neath the sea, and partly covered by the sand and shingle of the long strand. This 
change took place previous to the English invasion ; but when Henry II. came to 
Lismore, Youghal had not yet been founded, or at least was a place of such little 
consequence, that no one appeared to offer its allegiance to the monarch. The 
town was probably founded by the Geraldines, and other Anglo-Norman adven- 
turers, and colonised from Bristol, with which city it has always continued to be 
intimately associated. Its great value to the Anglo-Normans was the facility 
which it offered them for obtaining aid from England ; and on this account they 
established a light-house, the ruins of which still exist, under the name of the 
Round Tower ; and richly endowed a nunnery, under the condition that the nuns 
should see that the light was regularly maintained. This condition of tenure was 
instituted as an appeal to the religion and the gallantry of the native Irish, who 
were deterred from injuring the light which guided reinforcements to the invaders 
by a reluctance to offer violence to consecrated females. We have been induced 
to dwell at some length on the formation of this harbour, because we know of no 
other instance in which an interesting geographical problem is so curiously 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



11 



blended with an obscure but most important period of history. The subject is far 
from being exhausted, and we trust that it will yet be more fully investigated by 
persons connected with the locality who may have an opportunity of combining 
historical research with personal examination. 

The town, within the last half century, has extended on all sides beyond the 
former limits : the ancient walls are removed, and few traces remain to show where 
they once stood. A slob having 
been reclaimed by the corporation, 
the Mall house and adjacent streets 
are built upon it. The principal 
street is about a mile in length, 
divided by the Clock Gate into 
north and south main streets. 
Many of the old houses have been 
modernised— some yet show their 
antiquity by their gable ends fac- 
ing the street, and pointed stone 
doorways. There are two good 
hotels, Merry's and Campbell's, 
both comfortable, and charges mo- 
derate. This coast abounds with 
fish; herrings, whiting, hake, cod, 
and shoals of sprats. It affords 
considerable amusement to the 
visitor to ramble by the rock- 
bound beach in the morning, and 
see the fishermen hauling in their 
laden nets. The town is much 
frequented in summer as a bath- 
ing-place, having the advantage 
of a fine smooth level strand, 

reaching nearly three miles along the western shore. There is a fine promenade 
along the Cork road. There are not very extensive accommodations for families, 
otherwise more would resort thither ; and it is hoped some enterprising persons 
may build lodges, which undoubtedly would well remunerate the outlay, and not 
only cause an influx of visitors, but induce many to become resident, and enjoy 
the beautiful scenery of the Blackwater, now thrown within their reach. In 
addition to cheap and abundant markets, the visitors have the advantage of fine 
air, and an agreeable neighbourhood. 

The view of the town is taken from Muckridge House, the tasteful and hos- 




12 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

pitable mansion of Richard Albert Fitzgerald, Esq., to whom, and his accom- 
plished lady, I am indebted for facilitating my researches in their neighbourhood. 

The view of the town from Muckridge House is picturesque. In front is a 
Castle of modern erection ; but when associated with the recollections of the bloody 
wars fought in every direction, partakes of that indefinable feeling of reverence 
with which we regard the remnants of other times. Close beside is the bay, into 
which the Blackwater pours its waters. " A favourable circumstance to its navi- 
gation," observes the Rev. Horatio Townsend, in his Survey of the County Cork, 
" as the discharge of so great a body of water must necessarily exert sufficient 
force to preserve the mouth from any overwhelming excess of sandy accumula- 
tion." Now I should be inclined to regard this as, in no small degree, the cause 
of the bar of Youghal, which presents an obstruction to the entrance of the 
harbour — the rush of the river on the one side, and flow of the tide, collecting a 
mass of sand and mud which crosses the bay. There have been some experiments 
made by Mr. Francis Jennings, a distinguished scientific gentleman, a native of 
Cork, the result of which leads to the possibility of removing a considerable 
portion of the bar ; and this once effected, Youghal would speedily rival Cork or 
Waterford as a seaport. The facility of entering the harbour would be greater 
than at either of those cities : there is not, as at Cork, the river to ascend, and 
descend when sailing out. There is no delay incurred by waiting for the tide. 
The passage across to Bristol could be made in some hours less time than at 
present from Cork ; and should, as is likely, a steamer find sufficient encourage- 
ment to take this station when the traffic following the opening of the Blackwater 
navigation arises, all the articles of groceries, and other imports, will come direct 
here, instead of being procured from merchants in the neighbouring ports. The 
preference of Cork, as a port, leaves Youghal chiefly a trade in coal, and export 
of grain and butter. It carries on a considerable trade in manufacturing brick, 
the earth here being peculiarly adapted to that article, with which it supplies Cork 
to a great extent ; also earthenware of a coarse description. 

Our sketch shows the town snugly ensconced under a pretty wooded hill, and, 
from the low situation, appears quite springing from the sea. The long wooden 
bridge connecting it to the Waterford side, is higher up ; and between this and 
the town lies a vast marsh, which, if His Grace the Duke of Devonshire were to 
regard his own interest, he would most assuredly give every facility, nay, proffer 
encouragement to have taken in and reclaimed for building purposes. I understand 
a proposal was made to that effect, which His Grace declined acceding to, unless 
he was to have the portion nearest the town for his share ; and as this was likely 
to be that first reclaimed and most valuable, the proposers felt they would be 
worse off after all the expense necessarily incurred : so the matter drops. It is 
to be hoped some bonus may be offered by the Duke, as excellent sites for houses 



TO THE RIVER BLACKTTATER. 



13 



and streets would be obtained ; and every effort should be made to extend the town 
along the margin of the bay, as the steep hills prevent its extension in any other 
direction, and bathing accommodation is on a limited scale at present. 

Before entering the town by the Cork 'road, are seen the remains of a strong 
building, over the sea. A tower is in 
good preservation. It is said to have been 
a light-house, which its lofty position 
seems well adapted for. There are 
several relics of ancient devotion ; one of 
the finest ruins is that of the Collegiate 
Church, represented in Mr. Creswick's 
view. The College of Youghal was founded 
in 1464, by Thomas Earl of Desmond ; this 
church was repaired, at a later period, 
by the Earl of Cork. The foundation 
charter, and several endowments pre- 
sented to it, were confirmed by Popes 
Julius, Paul, and others. It was suffered 
to enjoy its revenues for some time 
after the Eeformation. Nath. Baxter 
Warden, about 1595, finding its tenure 
precarious, and resolved to anticipate 
the Government, caused the college reve- 
nues to be disposed of, and demised them 
and the house to Sir Thomas Norris, then 
Lord President of Minister. They were afterwards 
Walter Raleigh. 

The ancient church of Youghal was the finest specimen of the pointed English 
or Norman style of architecture in Ireland. It consisted of a nave, transept, and 
choir, with a square belfry or tower on the north side, about fifty feet high, which 
is still in good repair. The choir is now roofless and deserted ; its magnificent 
eastern window, glorious even in decay, fills the mind with melancholy when seen 
as the stranger enters the churchyard ; and this impression is not removed by the 
condition of that part of the ancient building still preserved in repair for divine 
service, namely, the nave and a portion of the ancient aisles. In the middle of 
the last century, when the old roof was repaired, the person employed as architect 
was so utterly incompetent that he quite destroyed the original design ; at the 
same time the painted ceiling of the interior was removed, and a uniform coat of 
white-wash substituted in its place. Pews and galleries were built according to 
the taste, or rather the caprice, of the several parishioners, and though several 




given in trust for Sir 



14 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



alterations have since been made, they have been all further departures from the 
type of the original architecture, so that the interior is now an anomalous com- 
pound of a collegiate church and a meeting-house. The south division of the 
transept, which still retains the name of Chancel, is the Mausoleum of the Boyles ; 
and it is much to be wished that the heir of their vast domains would bestow some 
little attention on the repair and preservation of their monuments. The northern 
division of the transept is disfigured by the most perverse specimen of Vandal 
deformity to be found in Christendom. A square vestry-room, with a naked roof, 
has been erected inside the church, cutting off several fine monuments of ancient 
families ; one of which, and that the most curious, is consigned to the coal-cellar 
of said vestry -room. The communion-table is placed in a recess projecting into 
the ruins of the ancient choir ; and this modern addition is built in a style at utter 
variance with the original structure of the church, and is ornamented with mural 
tablets, containing the creed, the commandments, &c, which neither harmonize 
with the old structure nor with the modern changes made in it. Nevertheless, 
the people of Youghal are proud of their old church, and have reason to be so in 
spite of all their perverse efforts to spoil it. 

The interior of the deserted choir is now nearly filled with tombs, but these are 
almost hidden in the rank vegetation and tangled weeds which have been allowed 




to spring up unheeded in the neglected sanctuary. We doubt if there is in any 



,M*bE 







•QU^lAl (CHU3ES.C: 



TO THE TITER BLACKWATER. 



15 



other part of Britain, possessing such an architectural gem as this choir, where it 
would have been permitted to remain in so deplorable a condition as in Youghal. 
The tombs offer much to interest the antiquary, who, like Old Mortality, 
loves to recover the half-defaced in- 
scriptions which tell the tale of by- 
gone days. There are many such 
around this ruined choir. 

Let us rescue a few from oblivion. 
Here is the altar tomb on the north 
side of the choir. There is little to 
mark the occupant — his name 
alone — Hie jacet Thomas Fleming. 

That, only that, to single out the spot, 
By that rememher'd, or by that forgot. 



No date — no trace — by which his 
lineage might be guessed, or his 
deeds recalled. Another, with some 
characters which I could not deci- 
pher, bears a Runic inscription ; 
the date is tolerably clear, 1517 ; 
the remainder much defaced. It 
is supposed to be the tomb of a 
mayor of Youghal. The one sur- 
mounted by a head over the cross, 
is called Ronayne's tomb. He was 
also a mayor in Queen Elizabeth's 
reign. There is a large tomb to the Boyle family, dated 1619. 
This is in a chapel much exposed to the weather. An epitaph 
to Sir Richard Villers, Lord President of Munster, who died in 
1626, is quaint and terse : — 

Munster may curse the time that Villers came, 
To make us worse by leaving such a name, 
Of noble parts, as none can imitate 
But those whose hearts are married to the State ; 
But if they press to rival him in fame, 
Munster may bless the time that Villers came. 




\\t Placet 
Jletwmg 



The churchyard of Youghal is one of the most picturesque burying grounds in 
the three kingdoms. It occupies the slope of a hill, rising gradually from the 



16 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



church to the old town-wall, which is here in tolerable repair, and is judiciously 
planted with trees and shrubs. Some years ago walks were cut through the 
ground, and nights of steps erected to facilitate some steep ascents. Unfortunately, 
some fine old monuments were displaced during this operation, and the slabs of 
the tombs were used as flags to construct the steps. Some curious inscriptions, 
which we vaguely remember, have been thus irrecoverably lost, and among others 
one beginning, " Here lie the bodis of my 2 grandmothers, maiden names, Fox 
and Chubb." The author of the inscription gave no clue to his own name, and 
no date. The Infirmary and Fever Hospital, built on a part of the Town-wall, 
look into the churchyard, which they sadly deform, and near them is a tower 
erected for the purpose of astronomical observations, by the late Dr. Dartnell, who 
was ardently attached to the cultivation of physical science. The view of the 
river, and the opposite coast of the county of Waterford, from the terrace laid out 
at the upper side of the churchyard, is very extensive ; the broad of the river 
has all the appearance of a lake enclosed by hills, and suggests strongly the idea of 
a time when it found its way to the sea by a course different from the harbour 
of Youghal. 

Adjoining the churchyard, and only separated by a fence and trees, is a truly 
interesting mansion of the genuine Elizabethan building, which once sheltered the 




TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



17 



brave and enterprising Sir Walter Raleigh. In the garden opposite he is said to 
have planted the potato, which he brought from South America ; and the person 
left to take care of the grounds, imagining that the apple which grew on the stalk, 
was the part to be used, gathered it, and not liking the taste, neglected the roots, 
till the ground being dug afterwards to sow other grain, the potatoes were discovered 
there to have vastly increased. Tobacco is also reported to have been first in- 
troduced to Ireland from this 
port. 

The house is now in fine 
preservation, and well worth 
a visit ; it has a wainscotting 
of fine Irish oak, with carved 
panels, and the chimney-piece 
in the drawing-room is elabo- 
rately sculptured with gro- 
tesque figures. In the garden 
is a group of yew trees, here 
represented, said to have been 
planted by Raleigh. From a 
number of beautiful myrtle- 
trees about the house, it owes 
its present name, Myrtle 
Grove ; and its courteous 
owner, Colonel Faunt, permits 

the stranger to visit freely >I 3^s g =^ ^jjgi 

this dwelling of other days. 

Though no one had a keener appreciation of the charms of a country life, and 
unruffled repose from the turmoil of a court life, than Sir Walter, as is evidenced 
by his writings, a life of quiet and seclusion was by no means adapted to his ardent 
temperament. 

There is an instance of the extreme foresight of Raleigh mentioned in Smith's 
History of Cork. In 1602 he disposed of all his Irish estates to the Earl of 
Cork ; and, supposing his family would seek to disturb the deed of sale, as 
indeed was afterwards the case, Raleigh, when on the eve of his last voyage to the 
West Indies, addressing his son Walter, said, " Wat, you see how nobly my 
Lord Boyle hath entertained me and my friends, and therefore I charge you, 
upon my blessing, if it please God that you outlive me, and return, that you never 
question the Lord Boyle for any thing that I sold him ; for if he had not bought 
my Irish land, it would have fallen to the Crown, and then one Scot or other 
would have begged it, from whom neither I nor mine should have any thing for 




18 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

it, nor such courtesies as now I have received." This allusion to the fate of his 
property, in case it passed into the power of the Crown, enables me, ere I leave 
this remarkable man, to introduce the following notices of him and Lady Raleigh, 
which have strict historical facts for their foundation. I selected them from 
" Passages in the Life of Sir Walter Raleigh," or Ralegh, for in his autograph 
he omits the letter i. These were written by me some years back, and they have 
never before been published. 



PASSAGES FROM THE LIFE OF SIR WALTER RALEIGH. 

Nothing could exceed the admiration excited by Raleigh's conduct on his trial. 
Having been engaged in the prosecution of the Earl of Essex, it made him very 
unpopular ; but he now " behaved himself so worthily, so wisely, and so tem- 
perately, that in half a day the mind of all the company was changed from the 
extremest hate to the extremest pity." The two who brought the news to the 
king were Robert Ashton and a Scotsman. The first said, " That never any man 
spoke so well in times past, nor would do in the world to come." The other said, 
" Whereas when he saw him first he was so led by the common hatred, that he 
would have gone a hundred miles to have seen him hanged ; he would, ere he 
parted, have gone a thousand to have saved his life." His manner is thus de- 
scribed: — "To the lords, humble yet not prostrate; towards the jury, affable 
but not fawning, rather showing love of life than fear of death ; towards the 
king's counsel, patient but not insensibly neglecting ; not yielding to imputations 
laid against him in words : and it was wondered that a man of his heroic spirit 
could be so valiant in suffering." 

Raleigh now addressed himself to prepare for the transition from this world 
unto life everlasting. By the king's desire he was waited on by the Bishop of 
Winchester, who found him perfectly reconciled, and in a Christian frame of mind, 
resigned to his approaching end. He was aware that no permanent happiness can 
be expected here, and every ill should be encountered with patience. The words 
of Churchyard came to his mind: — 

What greater gryfe may come to any lyfe 

Than after sweete to taste the bitter sower, 
Or after peace to fall at warre and stryfe, 

Or after myrth to have cause to lower, 

Upon such props false Fortune bylds her tower — 
On sodayne chaunge her flitting frame be set, 
Where is no way for t' escape her net. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 19 



In this frame he addressed the following beautiful letter to his wife*: — " You 
shall now receive, my dear wife, my last words in these my last lines. My love I 
send you, that you may keep it when I am dead ; and my counsel that you may re- 
member it when I am no more. I would not by my will present you with sorrows, 
dear Bess, — let them go into the grave with me, and be buried in the dust. And 
seeing that it is not the will of God that ever I shall see you more in this life, 
bear it patiently and with a heart like thyself. 

" First, I send you all the thanks which my heart can conceive, or my words can 
express, for your many travails and care taken for me ; which, though they have 
not taken effect as you wished, yet my debt to you is not the less. Secondly, I 
beseech you, for the love you bear me living, do not hide yourself many days after 
my death ; but by your travail seek to help your miserable fortunes, and the 
right of your poor child. Thy mournings cannot avail me, — I am but dust. 
Thirdly, you shall understand that my land was conveyed, bona fide, to my poor 
child. I trust my blood will quench their malice that have thus cruelly murdered 
me, and that they will not seek also to kill thee and thine with extreme poverty. 
To what friend to direct thee I know not, for all mine have left me in the true 
time of trial ; and I plainly perceive that my death was determined from the first 
day. Most sorry I am, God knows, that being thus surprised by death, I can 
leave you in no better estate. But God hath prevented all my resolutions, — that 
Great God that ruleth all in all. But if you can live free from want, care for no 
more — the rest is but vanity. Love God, and begin betimes to repose yourself 
on him ; and therein shall you find true and lasting riches, and endless comfort. For 
the rest you travail and weary your thoughts over all sorts of worldly cogitations, 
and sit down by sorrow in the end. Teach your son also to love and fear God while 
he is yet young, that the fear of God may grow up with him ; and then God will 
be a husband to you, and a father to him — a husband and a father that cannot be 
taken from you. 

"When I am gone, no doubt you shall be sought by many — for the world thinks 
that I was very rich. But take heed of the pretences of them and their affections, 
for they last not but in honest and worthy men ; and no greater misery can befall 
you in this life than to become a prey, and afterwards to be despised. I speak 
not this, God knows, to dissuade you from marriage. As for me I am no more 
yours, nor you mine. Death has cut us asunder ; and God has divided me from 
the world, and you from me. I cannot write much. I hardly steal this time 
while others sleep ; and it is also high time I should separate my thoughts from 
the world. Beg my dead body, and either lay it at Sherborne, if the land con- 



Tytler's Life of Raleigh, p. 267. 



20 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

tinue, or in Exeter church, by the side of my father and mother. I can say no 
more ; — time and death call me away. 

" The everlasting, powerful, infinite, and omnipotent God, who is goodness 
itself, the true life and true light, keep thee and thine ; have mercy upon me, and 
teach me to forgive my persecutors and accusers, and send us to meet in his 
glorious kingdom. My dear wife, farewell ! Bless my poor boy ; pray for me, 
and let my good God hold you both in his arms ! Written with the dying hand 
of sometime thy husband, but now, alas ! overthrown. Yours that was, but not 
now my own, — 

"Walter Raleigh." 

The subsequent history of Raleigh is well known. He was reprieved, but con- 
fined in the Tower ; where his passion for study, his vast mental resources, the 
knowledge of countries and their inhabitants he had learned by his travels, all 
fitted him to find solace within himself in such an habitation. His hours were 
free from interruptions — no excitement disturbed his repose. He wrote during 
his imprisonment The History of the World, published in 1614. His faithful 
wife shared his solitude, though her peace of mind never recovered the blow his 
conviction and sentence had given her. She reminded him of his friend Shak- 
speare's lines : — 

the pale cheek, 

Like a white rose on which the sun hath look'd, 

Too wildly warm, (is not this Passion's legend ?) 

The drooping lid whose lash is wet with tears, 

A lip which had the sweetness of a smile, 

But not its gaiety — all these did hear 

The scorch'd footprints sorrow leaves in parting. 

Had he been of a less impatient temperament, in the enjoyment of his lady's 
society, his books, and the society of a few friends, he might have almost forgotten 
he was a prisoner. But disguise it as thou wilt, yet imprisonment is hard to bear ; 
and to one whose habits prompted incessant activity, confinement was peculiarly 
irksome. But fortune had another blow for him. The deed by which he con- 
veyed his favourite seat Sherborne on his son had been referred for examination 
to Chief Justice Popham, who presided at his trial ; and he held, from the 
omission of some important technical words, it was invalid. Robert Carr, the 
favourite of James, was easily persuaded to take advantage of this flaw to solicit 
the estate. Raleigh lost no time in remonstrating with the favourite, as appears 
in the following letter * : — 



* Ty tier's Life of Raleigh, 274. Cayley, vol. ii. p. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 21 

" Sir — After some great losses and many years' sorrows (of both which I have 
cause to fear I was mistaken in the end), it is come to my knowledge that your- 
self, whom I know not but by honourable fame, hath been persuaded to give me 
and mine our last fatal blow, by obtaining from his majesty the inheritance of 
my children, lost in the law for want of a word. This done there remaineth 
nothing with me but the name of life ; despoiled of all else but the title and sor- 
rows thereof. 

" And for yourself, sir, seeing your fair day is but now in the dawn, and mine 
drawn to the evening, your own virtues and the king's grace assuring you of 
many favours and much honour, I beseech you not to begin your first building 
upon the ruins of the innocent, and that their sorrows, with mine, may not attend 
your first plantation. I have ever been bound to your nation, as well for many 
other graces as for the true report of my trial to the King's majesty, against whom, 
had I been found malignant, the hearing of my cause would not have changed 
enemies into friends, malice into compassion, and the minds of the greatest 
number then present into the commiseration of mine estate. It is not the nature of 
foul treason to beget such fair passions ; neither could it agree with the duty and 
love of faithful subjects, especially of your nation, to bewail his overthrow who 
had conspired against their most natural and liberal lord. I therefore trust, sir, 
that you will not be the first who shall kill us outright, cut down the tree with the 
fruit, and undergo the curse of them that enter the fields of the fatherless, — 
which, if it please you to know the truth, is far less in value than in fame, — but 
that so worthy a gentleman as yourself will rather bind us to you (being, sir, 
gentlemen not base in birth and alliance) who have interest therein. And 
myself, with my uttermost thankfulness, will ever remain ready to obey your 
command. 

" Walter Raleigh." 

This letter had not the desired effect. The sweet retreat of Sherborne passed 
into the hands of the profligate Somerset, the lands being declared forfeited to 
the Crown. 

It was in the gloomy chambers of his prison in the Tower that Raleigh felt the 
soothing cares of his loved wife. She never indulged in any unseasonable burst of 
grief ; on the contrary, preserved the same calm unruffled sweetness that marked 
her life while preferring the secluded lawns of their sylvan Sherborne to the 
pomp and gaieties of the court. She would not leave her husband, even though 
her approaching confinement demanded better care and attendance than the state 
prison afforded. Her love for her husband made her forget herself: and a second 
son, Carew, was born in the Tower. It was her delight to talk with Raleigh 
over every honourable means of saving his life, and though convinced in his own 



22 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

mind of their inefficacy, he could not deny her at least the gratification of assenting 
to her requests. He humoured all her plans, conferred with her on the best mode 
of putting them into execution, and addressed an humble petition to the King for 
mercy, which, as he expected, produced no favourable result. 

Still Lady Raleigh was undaunted. Under pretence of placing her babe at 
nurse, and taking her eldest son Walter with her, she left the Tower, resolved to 
go to the King in person, and plead for her husband's life. 

She drove straight to Whitehall, in which James occupied apartments, super- 
intending alterations then going on in the building ; and, as her carriage slowly 
approached the stately gate, she thought of the time she first dwelt in those walls. 
The eldest boy clapped his little hands with admiration as they drew nigh the 
gate, said to have been designed by Holbein. It was built with bricks of two 
colours, glazed, and disposed in a tesselated fashion. An embattled tower was on 
each side. On each front were four busts, of artificial stone. The mind of Lady 
Raleigh reverted to the time when, with a light heart and girlish brow, she 
attended Queen Elizabeth as maid of honour, and won the heart of the famed 
Sir Walter as Elizabeth Throgmorton. 

Fearful that the King might refuse to see her if she was known, she addressed 
a strange lord in waiting, and entreated him to give her opportunity of speech 
with the King, and merely to announce her as a "gentlewoman praying an 
audience ;" and holding the infant in her arms, her little boy timidly catching her 
skirt, she prayed to be admitted into the ante-chamber. 

The nobleman, a good-natured Scot, had no suspicion who she was, was 
struck by her noble air, and touched by the deep anguish of her expressive coun- 
tenance : — "Be of good cheer, leddy ; be of good cheer. King Jamie has a blunt 
speech, but a kind heart," and he permitted her to follow him. Leaving her and 
the children in the ante-chamber, the lord in waiting went to seek the King. 
Lady Raleigh soon heard the loud voice of the sovereign, for the door stood 
partly open. " A lady wants speech with us, did you say ? Is she alone ? " 

" She is, your majesty, but not quite." 

" Weel said, Douglas," cried the King, with a loud laugh ; '•' alone, and not 
quite — how mean ye, laddie ?" 

" She has twa bairns with her," replied the Lord Douglas. 

" A lady with two bairns," repeated the King, in amaze ; " What's her 
name ? " 

" I dinna ken, my liege ; she merely said, a gentlewoman." 

" I like not mystery. What say you, Carr ; maun I see the lady and the 
bairns?" — Lady Raleigh bent her ear anxiously to catch the reply, on which her 
hopes hung. Her heart half failed her when she recollected he thus interro- 
gated was the suitor for her loved Sherborne, the monarch's favourite. " I think," 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 23 

replied the haughty minion, " the lady who claims audience, yet fears to present a 
honest name, is not worthy of so great a favour." 

" Vera well, Carr," replied James ; " my ain thoughts to a certainty." 

" I'll answer for it, your majesty," interposed Douglas, warmly, as the King 
was about to decline the interview, " that whatever name she bears is an 
honest one." 

" Ha ! by'r word but she must be weel favoured to have smitten the Douglas 
of a sudden. Saw ye this fair incognita before ?" 

" Never, on my salvatie," answered Douglas. 

" Nay, then, look not so sternly, man ; thou hast so raised my curiosity, that 
albeit her presence may be dangerous, I will have speech with the fair one. 
Stand by me, Carr." 

Lord Douglas re-appeared in the ante-room, and the lady and the children en- 
tered the presence. 

The room in which James and his favourite were seated was one of the new 
apartments just completed by Inigo Jones. The ceiling was painted by Rubens, 
and represented the king seated on his throne, turning with horror from the God 
of War, and other of the discordant deities, and as if giving himself up to the 
Goddess of Peace, with her smiling attendants, Commerce and the Fine Aits. The 
Venetian windows suffered the light to steal through scantily, but the magnificent 
furniture every where around was worthy of the ruler of a vast empire. James 
was sitting at a chess-board having as his antagonist his idle favourite ; the 
latter dressed in the very perfection of the fantastic costume of the period. 
Before the King the noble lady knelt, her little boy mechanically kneeling by her 
side ; the infant, at the sight of the King, buried his head in his mother's bosom. 
The lady broke silence : — " You see before you, sire," said she, in a low tremulous 
voice, " one whose grief hath caused to forget all difference of rank. I am lost 
to a sense of all but that high prerogative which the Almighty hath conferred 
on kings, and which I thus humbly implore your majesty to exercise for the 
safety of my husband, whose now most wretched, but once happy wife, kneels 
with her little ones before you." 

" Who is thine husband, lady ? " demanded James. 

" Sir Walter Raleigh." 

" Hah ! proud traitor," shouted the King, starting as though stung by a ser- 
pent, and overturning the table, chess-board and men rolled round the room. 

"No," answered the lady, with dignity; "you never had a truer subject. Do 
justice to his faithful heart. Think, on the word of thy mouth depends whether 
his spirit, chafed by long imprisonment, must find a premature grave in the dun- 
geon, if not on the scaffold. Though he bears much not to disquiet me, I see his 
loved form pining for freedom. Nay, for thine own sake, do not lose a servant 



24 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

who will approve himself faithful when others of cozening speech may prove 
untrue." 

" Madam," said the King roughly, " I maun tak heed not to be cozened by 
your fair words. How can I pardon one who is linked with those that said of 
me and my bairns" (James kept looking at the children as he spoke) "there 
never would be peace in England until the fox and his cubs were taken off." 

Lady Raleigh rose up, and the blood mantled her previously pale cheeks : it 
was but the hectic of the moment, and an ashy paleness succeeded. She clasped 
her boy's hand. " Alas ! " said she " there can be no hope for my noble spouse, 
when every idle slander finds credence in the royal ear. Thou knowest, sire, 
those words were never spoken, and but the whisper of those who cry down fame 
higher than thine own. Yet do not let my errand be quite bootless. If I cannot 
move you to grant his liberty, let the sight of these dear ones so draw your mind 
to compassion as to spare the escheat of his seat Sherborne, and take all the rest. 
Leave not these children deprived alike of their parents, for I will not long be 
with them, and likewise of their paternal property." 

The King looked irresolute ; at last, fixing his eyes on Carr, and beholding his 
glance returned in an upbraiding aspect, his only reply was — "I maun ha' the 
land — I maun ha' it for Carr." 

" Is there no hope ?" said the lady, turning to him whom she justly regarded as 
the sole obstacle between her and the place she loved best. " You are said to 
have much power with the King ; will you not speak for me ? You will not, I am 
sure, deprive us of a spot endeared by the recollection of by-gone hours of hap- 
piness ? What ! not one little word ? To you even the memory of this scene 
must bring sorrow. Oh ! if you would treasure up the recollection of a good 
action — if you would pour a sweet drop in a bitter bitter chalice, yield to my 
prayers. Restore us dear Sherborne ; and if it be the will of Him to chastise us 
in our sins, let my Walter leave his family with a house to shelter them, and his 
last prayers shall bless thee." 

" I never interfere with the King's business," coldly replied the haughty Carr. 

" Then to you alone I appeal," said the lady, again dropping on her knees be- 
fore James : — " And oh ! as you deal with me and mine, may you and yours find 
mercy. I will not rise till I am heard. Alas, sire, your illustrious ancestor was 
in the sore strait my husband is now in ; you have known," she added, while 
tears, fast and heavy, streamed down her cheeks, " one whose beauteous head was 
subjected to the block. Think how you would have prayed for her life if you had 
been of age to act. — You, perchance, can call back something of the grief which 
her untimely fate brought on. Yes ! yes ! I see you understand me. You would 
have prayed as I now pray, and begged as I now beg. Let my noble husband 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 25 



live ; restore to my children my "Walter ; and, as thou dealest forth pity to us, do 
thou receive mercy from on high." 

A new auditor had joined them unbiddingly, who was much affected at the so- 
lemnity of the lady's prayer. His countenance bespoke a noble nature, and his 
eyes were filled with tears. " Oh ! father," said he, grasping the King's sleeve, 
"lam sure you cannot refuse the lady. What place does she ask for ? I will give 
her mine." 

" Hush ! hush, Henry ! don't tease me now ; go to Buchanan — get thee gone, 
sir," said the King, angrily. The boy's tears fell fast as his father led him out of 
the room. James was met at the door by Lord Cecil — he started as the kneeling 
group met his sight — the king and he conferred together. 

" All I can say is, that I continue the reprieve," said the King ; " so away wi' 
ye, lady, and as for the land, I maun have it for Carr." 

" Then may the Almighty God deal with Carr and the rest of those who have 
wrought this woe upon us," said Lady Raleigh ; " unto him I commit them : — in 
the hands of a supreme power I leave them ; for the Lord sayeth, ' Vengeance is 
mine, and I will requite it.' " So saying, she left James to amuse himself, over- 
seeing his workmen erecting a pile, from which his own son was to step from the 
throne to the scaffold. 



While repairing the pannels of the drawing-room at Myrtle Grove, some years 
since, a cupboard, or small recess, concealed by the wainscot, was disclosed. It 
contained some old books ; one very valuable, in boards literally, the covers being 
oak, covered with leather, and bound by large clasps, now in the possession of 
Matthew Hayman, Esq. The work consists of two parts. One in black letter, 
with coloured initials, contains events from the time of Moses to the days of Saints 
Peter and Paul, and appears to have been printed in Mantua, 1479. The other, 
an ecclesiastical History of Peter Comester, by John Schallus, Professor of Physic, 
at Hornfield ; and is dedicated to Prince Gonzales. This part was printed at 
Strasburgh, 1483. 

In connection with this ancient residence, I may mention the family of Hayman, 
to whom it has belonged for some time. Robert of Gloucester, in his curious old 
Chronicle, gives the origin of this name, deriving it from jgtfgtttOtt, " a high 
man." 

In 1662, Samuel Hayman, of the old Somersetshire family of that name, came 
over to frelancl. He purchased this dwelling from the second Earl of Cork : it 
was then called the College House of Youghal. It was founded originally, in 1464, 
by Thomas Earl of Desmond, and consisted, as we have seen, of a number of sing- 
ing-men ; in 1586, it became the property of Sir Walter Raleigh, and was his re- 



26 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

sidence while at Youghal. When Sir Walter quitted Ireland, it was repaired and 
remodelled in 1602 by Sir George Carew, Lord President of Munster, who left it, 
as far as exterior is concerned, in nearly the same state that it is now — a good 
specimen of the English "great house" in Queen Elizabeth's time. Raleigh was 
attainted about the year 1604, and Sir Richard Boyle had contrived, previous to 
the last voyage of the unfortunate Raleigh, to get a dead bargain of his Irish 
estates — three seigniories and a half for a sum not exceeding a thousand pounds. 
Sir Richard Boyle, evidently a very shrewd man, procured, in the patent con- 
firming the sale of these lands, special mention of the College of Youghal, and 
on the marriage of Sir Richard's daughter to Sir Jeffrey Fenton, in 1605, the 
revenues of the College were settled as the lady's jointure. Sir Richard had pre- 
viously managed to get his own kinsman, Dr. Richard Boyle, appointed warden of 
the house ; and induced the warden and fellows to make over to him and his heirs 
the College revenues for ever, on payment of twenty marks yearly. In 1634, 
the Lord Deputy Viscount Wentworth summoned Sir Richard to come and appear 
at Dublin Castle and answer some heavy charges that were brought against him ; 
on which occasion, observes Dr. Smith, " Sir William Reeves, then Attorney- 
General, exhibited a very severe bill against him." A fine of fifteen thousand 
pounds was awarded to the Crown, and a portion of the estates vested in the King. 
Lord Wentworth was shortly afterwards created Earl of Strafford, and Boyle 
first Earl of Cork. The Earl of Cork died in 1643 ; he was succeeded by his 
son, from whom Samuel Hayman purchased. On the death of Samuel, in 1672, 
this house, with other property, vested in his son John, who represented the town 
of Youghal in Parliament for ten years, 1703 — 1713. John had no issue by his 
marriage with a beautiful girl, named Hannah Crockford ; and when he died, in 
1731, his brother Samuel got the place, which he enjoyed as long as he could. 
His son John succeeded to it, in due course, in right of being eldest born ; but, 
dying a bachelor, his next brother succeeded. This was a clergyman, the 
Reverend Atkin Hayman ; and it was he that changed the name of the place, 
and gave it the appellation it bears at present — Myrtle Grove. He went the 
way of all flesh, dying in April, 1793; and the register of his burial has, after 
the record of that event, the simple words, "A good man," — higher praise than 
a marble monument. On his death the property passed to his eldest son, the 
late Walter Atkin Hayman, Esq. ; and the house is now let to Colonel Faunt, 
who kindly permits visiters to inspect this dwelling, so interesting from its 
associations with past days. Matthew Hayman, Esq., in whose possession the 
work referred to now is, resides in the town of Youghal. His son, the Reverend 
Samuel Hayman, curate of Glanworth, is a clergyman of the Established Church, 
of great literary and classical attainments ; one of the principal contributors to 
our national periodical literature ; and though his sacred calling, and the retiring 



TO THE RIVER BLACK WATER. 27 

disposition ever indicative of true genius, has withheld him from authenticating 
the numerous contributions of his vigorous mind by his name, those acquainted 
with his style, which is graceful and natural, awakening a sympathy in the subject 
between the writer and the reader, and while interesting the mind instructing the 
heart in lessons of deep feeling and solemn thought — require no index to point 
out the article of one whom I shall always feel proud to number among my 
friends, and for whose ready aid and cheering encouragement of my work I shall 
ever feel a grateful recollection. 

ARDMORE. 

Passing over the highland opposite Youghal is seen the top of a round tower, 
claiming some notice as seen from the river, though otherwise not coming within 




h* 




my limits. This is Ardmore, and well worth a visit. By the ferry the distance 
is about four miles over a mountain road. Several pretty seats are scattered 
near the shore, among which may be particularly mentioned Woodbine Hill, the 
handsome mansion of — Roch, Esq., commanding a splendid prospect. Whiting 
Bay, of which we have already spoken, is near this road ; and close to it Grange, 
a bathing residence of one of the best of Irishmen, Sir Richard Musgrave, Bart. 
The alluvial valley to which we have referred, as probably the old channel of at 
least a branch of the river, is very fertile, and produces better crops of corn than 
any part of the surrounding districts ; indeed, all the country between the ferry 
and Ardmore is well cultivated ; the cottages of the peasantry have every appear- 
ance of cleanliness and comfort, while the peasants themselves evince a readiness 
to give information to strangers, and to enter freely into conversation with them ; 



28 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



which experience has taught us to note as a sure mark of healthy relations 
between the landed proprietors and the tenantry. 

Ardmore possesses some attractions as a bathing-place, and is capable of much 
improvement. There is a constant tradition that the Phoenicians once had an 
establishment here, and worked the lead-mines in the neighbourhood, which, 
however, have long ceased to be productive ; tracings of the workings, however, 
still remain. But the chief objects of curiosity in Ardmore are its ecclesiastical 
remains, which are placed on the top of a rocky hill overlooking the village and 
bay. They consist of a round tower, ruined abbey, and some smaller buildings, 
the use of which cannot in all cases be ascertained. An episcopal see was erected 
here by St. Declan, and confirmed by the synod of Cashel, held by St. Patrick, 
a.d. 448. St. Ultan, the successor of Declan, was abbot of the monastery as 
well as bishop of the see ; and after the title of bishop of Ardmore fell into desue- 
tude the president of the monastery held the dignity of a mitred abbot. 

The tower, perhaps the most perfect of this kind in Ireland, is built of hewn 
stone, carefully fitted and cemented. It is distinguished from many I have seen 
by having four projecting rings or belts round it at intervals, as if to divide it into 
stories or separate compartments ; each diminishes in circumference as it ap- 
proaches the top. The conical cap is considerably shaken ; but yet retains its 
position. In Smith's History of Waterford mention is made of its being sur- 
mounted by a curiously-shaped cross, but of this no trace now exists. The 
height is calculated to be ninety-one feet; the entrance fifteen feet from the 
ground, and the circumference of the base forty feet. In each story is a window, 
and the top one contains four windows, opposite to each other, larger than those 
beneath. In Ryland's Waterford the antiquarian reader will find all existing hy- 
potheses on the subject of Round Towers pleasantly displaced, without however the 
poor enjoyment of a more reasonable substitute than this : — "I shall offer as a 
conjecture that the round towers had some connection with the superstition which 
prevailed here at the period of the introduction of Christianity into Ireland, and 
that its early propagators endeavoured to avail themselves of the prejudices of the 
people, by erecting their places of worship in the vicinity of the ancient religious 
monuments." 

The church, close by, was a splendid edifice, richly sculptured. There are yet 
evident on the west gable twelve bas-relief figures, each under a small Saxon 
arch. Mr. Croker, in his " Researches in the South of Ireland," has given a very 
full account of this interesting spot. These figures, he supposes, were intended 
for the twelve Apostles. Underneath these are the Baptism, a Sacrifice, the 
Judgment of Solomon, with figures of our First Parents, and the Tree of Know- 
ledge between them. 

Near at hand is St. Declan's bed, a small stone hut with one window, per- 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



29 



mitting a scanty ray of light into the interior. Here are the remains of a 
tomb, over which is a rude stone cross. Many virtues are attributed to the clay 
which received the remains of the saint ; and this causes the country people to 
take it hence in such numbers that they have excavated to a considerable depth. 

Archdall, in his Monasticon, mentions another religious edifice. This is 
Thompel a Deshert, or Temple of Desert, which I presume to be that referred to 
in the following agreeable notice in Eyland's Water ford: — " The ruins of another 
church are to be seen on the projecting headland which forms the western termi- 
nation of the bay. This beautifully situated building, which combines a romantic 
site with other interesting associations, is in a most ruinous condition, having few 
traces of ornament or peculiar architecture to illustrate its early history. It is 
one of those structures which the common people love, probably because it has 
nothing to recommend^ it to strangers, and because its very worthlessness has 
preserved it entirely to themselves. It is remote from any public road or thorough- 
fare, and seldom visited except by those whom a secret instinct attaches to the 
place. Still, though fallen and in ruins, this temple is not deserted by the class of 
persons for whose use it was originally intended : a few fragments of broken 
arches give note of former magnificence, while vessels intended for religious 




uses, a clear stream, and a well, reputed holy, draw together the descendants of 
the ancient worshippers." A close examination of these ruins will reward the 
labour of the architectural antiquary, for it is probably the oldest ecclesiastical 
ruin in Ireland, and appears to have been the structure erected in the time of 
St. Declan. On the strand below, St. Declan's stone is pointed out, which, accord- 



30 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



ing to tradition, swam hither miraculously from Rome, bearing the saint's vest- 
ments, and a bell for his church. The stone lies shelving on the point of a rock, 
and on the patron-day of the saint, numbers of persons may be seen creeping 
under this stone, to which, and also to St. Declan's well in the neighbourhood, 
miraculous powers in the cure and prevention of disease are attributed. 

Several of those circular intrenchments attributed to the Danes are found in the 
vicinity of Ardmore, and we heard some vague accounts of antiquities having been 
dug up in their vicinity. There are also traces of two ancient castles, but neither 
history nor tradition throws any light on the persons by whom or the purposes for 
which they are erected. Were the neighbourhood of Ardmore systematically 
examined, and excavations made in promising places, there is every probability 
that relics of antiquity would be discovered which would throw considerable light 
on the condition of Ireland previous to the Anglo-Norman invasion. The vicinity 
of the raths or Danish forts particularly deserves investigation, and also the ruins 
of the more ancient church. 



ASCENT OF THE BLACKWATER, FROM YOUGHAL TO 
CAPPOQUIN. 

Commencing our ascent of the Blackwater, we leave behind the town of Youghal, 
and soon lose sight of the gap beyond, where the broad Atlantic heaves its billows 
on the bold strand leading to Clay Castle. The scenery around teems with rich- 
ness and picturesque beauty. Our steamer, the Star, for which we are indebted 
to the patriotic zeal of Sir Richard Musgrave, whose enterprising mind resolved to 
navigate the Blackwater at any pecuniary risk, confident he was thereby serving 
his native country, shoots merrily through the wooden bridge. 

This bridge was erected after a design by Mr. Nimmo, under the provisions of an 
act of parliament passed in 1828. It is formed of Munich fir, and is 1787 feet in 
length, 22 feet wide within the rails, and cost over 30,000/. 

This bridge passed, we leave Muckridge House to the left, ensconced among 
the luxuriant trees ; and now every bend in the course presents a succession of 
charming scenes, perpetually presenting new beauties as they are disclosed by the 
shifting our position with respect to them. The river is here fished by means of 
small boats, somewhat resembling canoes, and not unfrequently a rosy-cheeked 
peasant girl is the sole mariner, crossing from one side to the other. A high rocky 
hill breasts the water ; crumbling ruins crown the summit. These are all that 
remain of Rhincrew Abbey, reputed to have been a preceptory of the Knights 
Templars, which, on the suppression of that order in tins country, formed part of 
the grant made in 1586 to Sir Walter Raleigh, and subsequently sold by him to 
the Earl of Cork. The ruins are very extensive, consisting of a variety of apart- 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



31 



ments, and the building when complete contained a quadrangle flanked by towers. 

The site was well chosen for defence, commanding the hill on three sides. A 

noble view of the bay 

is seen from the tower _-^=- 

in front. 

We have very 
scanty materials for 
the history of the 
Knights' Templars 
that settled in Ire- 
land; but there is 
reason to believe that 
the preceptory at 
Rhincrew was very 
richly endowed, for 
castles belonging to 
its agents are found 
in many parts of the 
counties of Cork and 
Waterford, which 
were erected both to 

protect their vassals and to enforce due payment of rent and feudal service. Some 
old peasants in the neighbourhood of Rhincrew averred that there were formerly 
some statues among these ruins, and they described them as representing the well- 
known costume of the Templars, the open helmet, cross-handled sword, and crossed 
legs, which intimated service in Palestine. They attributed their destruction to 
the Iconoclast fury of Cromwell's followers, and the Puritans who succeeded them, 
but in some cases the peasants themselves have lent aid in the work of destruction. 
Higher up the little stream which runs into the Blackwater, below Rhincrew, 
stands the baronial castle of Kilnatoora, which until lately was one of the most 
perfect specimens of a Norman fortified residence in Ireland. A farmer in the 
neighbourhood demolished a great part of the upper story, and a beautiful stone 
window, to get materials to build an addition to his house, and only desisted when 
he found that, owing to the strength of the cement, it would be cheaper for him to 
obtain stones from a neighbouring quarry. Within an hour of our having heard 
this account from one of the persons who had actually taken part in this barbarous 
demolition, we met another peasant who ascribed the breach to Cromwell's cannon, 
and who was quite indignant when he found that we were in possession of what 
he did not deny to be the real state of the case. 

On the abolition of the order of Knights' Templars, it had been stipulated that 




32 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



their preceptories, commanderies, and estates, should be transferred to the knights 
of St. John of Jerusalem, or, as they were afterwards called, the Hospitallers. We 
have not been able to discover whether any part of the lands belonging to Rhin- 
crew were assigned to this, the rival order of the original possessors, for we have 
found no traces of the Hospitallers in the south of Ireland ; the priory of St. John in 
Waterford, which has indeed been sometimes described as a foundation of their order, 
was really a monastery of Benedictines. In the Maltese records, however, we find 
Irish knights holding high rank, and entries of money received from estates 
belonging to the order in Ireland ; and there is also evidence to show that the 
lands of Rhincrew were not seized by the Crown previous to the general dissolution 
of monasteries, after which they were granted to Sir Walter Raleigh. 

There is a tradition that spacious apartments, now choked with rubbish, were 
excavated by the knights in the rock on which the preceptory stands, and that 
from thence subterranean passages led to secret sally-ports at different parts of the 
river. The ruins were too dilapidated to admit of such researches as would test 
the truth of this tale, and we fear that there is not enough of antiquarian enter- 
prise and enthusiasm in the neighbourhood to stimulate to so toilsome and ex- 
pensive an investigation. On the hill between Rhincrew and Temple-Michael, 
there are traces of some field intrenchments of considerable extent ; but tradition 
and history are silent as to their nature or object. 

Leaving Rhincrew, we steer into a broad and placid lake, to which the artist 
has done much justice; and here the first object which attracts notice is the square- 
embattled tower of Temple-Michael, contrasting well with the graceful church 




TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



33 



near, while the handsome residence of Thomas Carpenter, Esq. forms a pleasing 
object in the foreground. Little is known of this castle : it was probably erected 
by the Templars to guard the channel here, for the river formerly encompassed an 
island called Dar Inis, or Molana, now united to the main land. The extensive 
ruins on this island now opened to the sight are frequently visited by the stran- 
gers who went to Youghal, from which they are distant about three miles. The 
road is very good, and several handsome seats are in this neighbourhood, particu- 
larly Cherrymount, the seat of Captain Parker, situated in a rising ground; Wood- 
view, the seat of 
Colonel Uniacke ; 
and Garryduif, 
the seat of H. 
Garde, Esq. On 
the right bank 
of the river, as 
we ascend from 
Youghal, we see 
Rockview and 
Bayview, with 
Woodbine Hill, 
and Monatray in 





s Ardsallagh 



the distance. Nearly opposite Rhincrew 

House, where resided the late Dominick Ronayne, Esq., 

M.P. 

The Abbey of Saint Molanfide, on the island just men- 
tioned, is in the superb demesne of Richard Smith, Esq., 
whose mansion, Ballinatra, is contiguous. This Abbey 
was founded in 501, by Saint Molanfide for canons re- 
gular. He was first abbot ; and a statue, representing him 
in the flowing robes of his order, is placed on a pedestal in 
the cloister. An inscription bears the name of the lady 
whose taste introduced so appropriately this excellent re- 
presentation of the Monk of Old — " Erected by Mrs. Mary 
Broderick Smith, a. d. 1820." The Abbey must have 



34 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



been of great extent ; even now it presents a most venerable appearance, clad 
in a luxuriant garment of ivy. The remains of Raymond le Gros, comrade 
of Strongbow, are said to be here in- 
terred ; and a funeral urn, with an in- 
scription to his memory, and bearing 
the year of his death, 1186, is placed 
underneath an arched window. The 
splendid mansion exposed to view as we 
glide onward is Ballinatra, the seat of 
Richard Smith, Esq., who has a large 
property in this country. The house 
is a large commodious mansion, the 
grounds extensive and well laid out, 
and many men are daily employed in 
keeping the grounds and gardens in 
perfect order. The present proprietor 
married the Hon. Harriet St. Leger, 
daughter of the late, and sister to the 
present, Viscount Doneraile. His bro- 
ther, John Rowland, Captain of the 6th 
Dragoon Guards, married the Hon. 
Catherine Alice, daughter of the late eminent Chief Justice Abbot, Baron 





TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 35 



Tenter den, sister to the present lord. His brother Henry married the only 
daughter and heiress of Charles Widenham, Esq., Castle Widenham. His sister 
Penelope married His Royal Highness the Prince of Capua, brother to the King 
of Naples. His sister Gertrude married Lord Dinorben, of Kimnel Park, county 
of Denbigh. 

Adjoining Ballinatra is a wooded glen, Glendyne, with a most romantic drive 
by the side of a brawling rivulet. This leads to a Roman Catholic Chapel and 
a National School. 

In the valley of Glendyne a rocky basin, not so perfect now as it was some years 
ago, is kept constantly full by a stream falling from a cliff above, the superfluous 
water dripping over the sides of the basin. Tradition states that there were 
sorcerers who could raise the shadows of futurity on the surface of this fluid 
mirror ; and it required but little exertion of the credulous imagination to give 
form and pressure to the varying shades which indistinctly appear on its dark 
waters. Similar legends are found attached to these natural rock basins in all 
parts of Europe, confirming Warburton's assertion, that hydromancy is one of the 
most widely spread forms of divination. He thinks, from the name of the place 
where the witch resided who invoked Samuel — "Endor," i.e. "perpetual foun- 
tain," — that she had intended to consult the shadows on one of those natural 
mirrors ; and that this will explain her astonishment when a spirit appeared 
instead of a shade. An old man in Glendyne, had some faint recollection of a 
habitation which described a fair lady going to discover in the rocky basin the 
fate of her lover who had enlisted in the Irish brigade ; she beheld him falling in 
battle, and soon after died of a broken heart. On the day of her funeral intelli- 
gence arrived of her lover having fallen in some skirmish, nearly at the time 
when she beheld the fatal vision. 

Near the place where the river Lickey falls into the Black water is Clashmore, 
which, on the intermarriage with Miss Power, became the property of the Earl of 
Huntingdon. Loughtane is near the river. At some distance to the left are 
ruins which give abundant evidence of the extent and durability of the building. 
This is Strancally Castle, one of the fortresses of the Desmonds. 

From the Castle to the river a passage was hewn through the rock of consider- 
able length and breadth, and pretty deep. From these ruined towers is procured 
an extensive view of the surrounding country, and many a stronghold of the 
princely Desmond, wherein the various members of that powerful race resided 
with their martial retainers. 

Ye Geraldines, ye Geraldines, how royally ye reign'd 
O'er Desmond wide, and rich Kildare, and foreign arts disdain'd ; 
Your sword made knights, your banner waved, free was your bugle call ; 
By Glyn's green slopes and Dingle's side, by Decies and Youghal, 



36 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



What gorgeous shrines, what Brehon lore, what minstrel feasts there were 
In and around Maynooth's tall keep, and palace fill'd Adare ; 
But not for rite or feast ye stay'd, when friend or kin was press'd, 
And foeman fled when " Crom a boo * " bespoke your lance in rest. 

How strongly do those feudal relics, whose grey and moss-grown battlements, 

" Plead haughtily for glories gone," 




--*~*«£§**9 



remind us of the days of chivalry and romance, when, by some deed of strife and 
reckless valour, the knight strove to recommend himself to the object of his 
choice, and, by piercing the mailed breasts of his compeers, actually won with his 
sword the heart of his ladye-love ; when a glance of her bright eye fired the 
soul of the warrior, and feats of arms were rewarded with a smile. It is curious 
to contrast those rude times with our more artificial days of society, though we 
may not regret their decline. Young ladies are not wont now to prize their lover 
as the Indian girls theirs, in proportion to the number of scalps they display, or 
the knights discomfited while asserting their charms in tilt-yard or battle. They 
seek now for other qualifications ; and though the passion of love is not so fierce 
as of yore, there is no doubt it is as strong, and perhaps more enduring. 

Tradition relates that the cave at this Castle was used by the tyrannical 
earls of Desmond as a prison for persons having fortunes in this part of the 

* The motto of the Fitzgeralds. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



37 



country, whom they frequently invited to the Castle to make merry, and when in 
their power confined to this dungeon, where they suffered their captives to perish. 
There is a hole cut through the rock in the manner of a portcullis, down which 
the dead bodies were cast into the river. It is called the Murdering Hole. One 
person by good fortune escaped out of this dungeon, who informed the govern- 
ment of these horrid practices, and both the Cave and the Castle were soon after- 
wards demolished. The Cave is entirely laid open, and half the Castle b]own up, 
the powder having split it from top to bottom ; and large pieces of the wall were 
thrown to a considerable distance by the force of the blast. * 

The river is very deep at this place. The right bank is barren and destitute 
of timber, while the left is magnificently wooded, especially round a strikingly 
picturesque and beautiful castle lately erected, and called after its old neighbour, 
Strancally Castle, seat of John Keily, Esq. The contrast between the embattled 




towers, rising majestically over the flood, with the shattered walls and crumbling 
battlements of the old castle, is very striking. The view from the demesne is 
very fine. The junction of the Bride and Blackwater takes place in a valley 
opposite ; and the several streams afford distinct vistas of forest, and water bearing 
boats and vessels, some of considerable burden, to and from Youghal to Tallow, 



Seward, Top. Hib. Strancally. 



38 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



while our steamer en route to Cappoquin diversifies the craft. The Castle is 
built in the Gothic style, and is surrounded by an extensive demesne. It lies 
about five miles from Tallow, and is quite an ornament to that part of the country. 

Leaving behind this stately pile, we reach an extensive range of steep bank, 
well wooded, and shortly a venerable mansion peeps high above the flood. 

Dromana, the seat of Lord Stuart de Decies, is one of the most splendid edifices 
on the river. The house is built on rocks, that rise almost perpendicularly from 




the right bank as we approach Cappoquin ; and the demesne extends a consider- 
able distance by the water-side, stretching away far into the inland, and diversified 
by lawn and woodland. The mansion has latterly undergone much repair ; but 
the description given by Lady Morgan in a work * written when on a visit in this 
vicinity, during the summer of 1817, is still tolerably correct. 

" The ground was divided into plots up to the door of the mansion, which stood 
on a rocky height over the river. On the opposite shores ascended a range of 
well-wooded acclivities, whose summits mingled with the level of the horizon. Of 
the original building, nothing now remained but a square ivy-clad tower, called 
Desmond's Castle, flanking a less imposing edifice, built in the reign of James I. 



Florence Macarthy, vol. i. p. 201. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 39 



This wing was in good preservation. The precipitous declivities which swept 
down from the rocky foundation of the house to the river had been cut into terrace 
gardens, a fashion still observable at the seats of the ancient nobility of Munster." 
This is the reputed birthplace of the old Countess of Desmond, who, at the age 
of 140 years, crossed the Channel, and travelled to London, to demand and obtain 
from James I. the restoration of her jointure, of which the attainder of the Earl 
of Desmond deprived her. Her death is said to have been caused from falling off 
a cherry-tree, into which she had climbed to get at the fruit. In Seward's " To- 
pographia Hibernica," Dublin, 1795, this is noticed as a seat of the Earl of Gran- 
dison, who had an estate of about 6000/. a year in this county, and stated to be 
built on the foundation of an ancient castle, formerly the chief seat of the Fitz- 
geralds of Decies. The castle, with all its furniture, was burned by the Irish. 
Near at hand, at Affane, a "bloody battle" was fought, on 1st February, 1564, 
between the Irish Guelphs and Ghibellines, the Earls of Ormond and Desmond, in 
which the latter had 300 men killed, and he himself, the chief Geraldine, taken 
prisoner by his ancient, implacable foeman, the Butler. When the victors were 
carrying the fierce chieftain in triumph on their shoulders from the field, the 
leader of the Ormond party rode up, and tauntingly inquired, " Where is now 
the great Earl of Desmond ? " Though faint, and a captive, the wounded chief 
indignantly replied, " Where but in his proper place ! still on the necks of the 
Butlers." On a reconciliation being effected between these great rivals, they 
shook hands : an aperture was cut in an oak door, through which they per- 
formed that greeting, each fearing to be poniarded by the other ! 

In Smith's " History of the County of Waterford," p. 53., he mentions the im- 
provements at Dromana. The gardens are situated on the side of a hill which 
hangs over the river, where is a noble terrace, affording a prospect up to Cappo- 
quin. To the south the river is hemmed in with high hills, covered with wood : 
at the foot of the gardens is a neat bastion, the vaults under which serve as a 
boat-house. The adjacent deer park is a pleasant spot of ground, lying contiguous 
to the seat, and a handsome lodge erected for the keeper. Through this park is a 
noble avenue, and the entrance near Cappoquin is a costly fanciful structure : 
there is a wooden bridge over the Finnisk river. This river forms a navigable 
branch from the Blackwater ; and if the plan suggested by Mr. Walker, county 
surveyor of Waterford, be carried into effect, continuing the canal already made 
from Dungarvon to Knockmoan, a distance of four miles and a half, it would open 
the communication with the sea-port of Dungarvon. 

The title Lord Stuart de Decies, so worthily bestowed on the noble owner of 
Dromana, is a very ancient one. In " Ryland's History of Waterford " we find it 
stated the lords of Decies derived their descent from James, the seventh Earl of 
Desmond. In 1561, a descendant of this nobleman was created " Baron of Dromany 



40 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

and Viscount Desses," and dying without issue, his possessions (the title becoming 
extinct) descended to his brother, Sir James Fitzgerald, who removed from Cap- 
pagh to Dromana, where he died in December, 1581. We next find in " Burke's 
Peerage," vide note, that the Hon. Edward Villiers, in 1677, married Catharine, 
daughter and heiress of John Fitzgerald, Esq. of the Decies, lineally descended 
from James, the seventh Earl of Desmond, and who dying, left his eldest son 
John heir! to his grandfather, as fifth Viscount Grandison. His lordship was 
created Earl of Grandison 11th September, 1721. He was great-great-grandfather 
of the present noble lord, Henry Villiers Stuart, Baron Stuart de Decies, of 
Dromana, within the Decies, county of Waterford. The cherry is said to have been 
first domesticated in this country at Dromana, having been brought hither from 
the Canary Islands by Sir Walter Raleigh. That distinguished stranger had 
large possessions in this country, and, in truth, land must have been accounted of 
somewhat less value than at present, when we are informed by the author of " Re- 
searches in the South of Ireland " — " The lands of Affane are said to have been 
given by Garratt Fitzgerald for a breakfast to Sir Walter Raleigh." 

When seen from the opposite bank, the entire view is very fine. A slight 
portion of the old building remains, toppling the cliff. 

" Brown in the rust of time — it stands sublime, 
With overhanging battlements and towers, 
And works of old defence — a massy pile, 
And the broad river winds around its base 
In bright unruffled course." 

Vast tracts of wood stretch over the expanse the eye traverses, and the distance 
is closed by a well-defined range of mountain. High over all soars Knockmele- 
down. Its elevation is somewhere about 2600 feet above the level of the sea. 
Mr. Ecles, a gentleman who resided many years at Youghal, and wrote some 
tracts on electricity, selected as his last earthly tenement the top of this mountain, 
where he lies buried with his dog and his gun. 

At a little distance from the river, on the road between Clashmore and Cappo- 
quin, is the neat village of Villierstown, founded by the last Earl of Grandison, 
with the hope of introducing the linen manufactory into the south of Ireland, by 
establishing here a colony of Protestant weavers. Beyond this general fact, we 
could learn nothing of the experiment, not even to what extent the original plan 
was acted upon, or when it was abandoned. There is, however, an average 
congregation every Sunday at the village church ; and the incumbent, the Rev. 
Philip Homan, has the happiness of being equally beloved by his Protestant and 
Catholic parishioners. This distinction is shared by his neighbour, the Rev. Mr. 
Mackesy, rector of Clashmore ; and it is gratifying to add, that when the Protestant 
clergymen were reduced to difficulties some years ago, by the refusal to pay tithe, 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



41 



that the Catholic peasantry in Mr. Mackesy's neighbourhood cut down and carted 
home his corn, without asking or accepting any reward. The national schools also 
in this neighbourhood have been productive of the most beneficial results. The 
English language is invariably spoken by the rising generation of peasantry ; 
and the series of books published, under the direction of the National Board, 
has conveyed innocent amusement and healthful instruction to families where 
the only literature previously known consisted of licentious songs and seditious 
ballads. 

The geologist will find this portion of the country rich in all that interests him. 
Where the house is situated, and down to the river, the rock is clay slate, while 
the summit of the hill bounding the domain is fine white sandstone. In a hollow 
in the lawn is a curious white clay, like fine sugar, which is said to be of use in 
glass factories. Traces of copper ore are discernible, and lead has likewise been 
turned up. On the left bank there is a substratum of micaceous red sandstone ; 
indeed, red sandstone is most prevalent here. 




Higher up is Tourin, the seat of Sir Richard Musgrave, Bart., to whose spirited 
and persevering exertions we are indebted for the opening the navigation of this 
beautiful river. The castle here belonged formerly to the Roches, who forfeited 
their estates in the rebellion, 1641 ; and has the advantage of a splendid view 
along the river and scenery of Dromana. The present is the third baronet. The 
first Sir Richard Musgrave was created a baronet of Ireland, according to " Burke's 



42 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

Peerage," 2d December, 1782, with remainder to the issue male of his father. He 
filled the office of collector of excise in the port of Dublin, and wrote some poli- 
tical works. Dying without issue, the title, according to the limitation, fell to the 
father of the present worthy and public-spirited baronet. 

There are some small islands now met with, adding to the variety of the scenery. 
The hills tower aloft, and houses, rolling up their smoke, announce a town. 



CAPPOQUIN AND MOUNT MELLERAY MONASTERY. 

We have reached Cappoquin, pleasantly situated in an angle on the north bank. 
This place is of much antiquity, and tradition relates of a castle built here by the 
Fitzgerald family. In the war of 1641, it was garrisoned by the Earl of Cork ; 
and the following year Lord Broghill, on his return from the relief of Knockmourne, 
with about 60 horse and 140 foot, defeated a strong party of the insurgents. In 
July, 1643, General Purcell, having assembled his army at this place to besiege 
Lismore, ravaged the surrounding country. In 1645 the castle was taken by 
Lord Castlehaven. The Earl of Cork built a bridge here, and an act passed 16 
& 17 Car. 2. for building a new bridge. The country about this town is highly 
improved. Close by is Cappoquin House, the seat of Sir Richard Keane, Bt. of 
Belmont, Lieutenant Colonel of the Waterford Militia. His father was created a 
baronet in 1801, and dying in 1829, the title devolved on the present baronet. His 
brother John so distinguished himself in the army, that he was created Baron 
Keane in 1839. The house is a handsome mansion of hewn stone, built in a well- 
wooded demesne. The view commands the course of the river for a considerable 
distance, and is closed by the wooded hills of Dromana. There is a neat church, 
and commodious Roman Catholic chapel here, an excellent national school, and 
another school, under the care of the Cork Society. The principal street contains 
some good houses and shops. Close to the town is Tivoli, the well-situated villa 
of Henry Dennehy, Esq. 

Three miles from Cappoquin is Mount Melleray, the abbey of the monks of La 
Trappe. The road leading to it is extremely picturesque. Shortly after passing 
the town it enters on a mountain district, wild and rocky, presenting steep pre- 
cipices ; the sides rugged, and a narrow gorge between the hills, strewed with 
loose rocks, over which a brawling torrent forces its watery way. Trees now nod 
overhead ; and again, on the other hand, we see their topmost branches, until lost 
in the depth of the dell, through the side of which our road winds. Piercing 
through the wooded glen, we catch a glimpse of the bleak country beyond, vast 
tracts of bog, and now stretching away to a horizon of lofty mountains. One 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



43 



green spot seems an oasis in the sterile desert, and this is varied by the white 
walls and tall spire of Melleray Abbey. 




The members of this community, driven from their establishment in France 
during the Revolution in 1830, sought shelter and refuge in this country; and 
not in vain. Sir Richard Keane granted them a large tract of mountain land, 
comprising above 500 acres, at a nominal rent. Sums of money were given 
them by benevolent individuals. The Duke of Devonshire, ever prominent in 
acts of liberality and munificence, gave one hundred pounds. All denominations 
of Christians assisted the religious alms-seekers, for such they literally were in 
worldly goods when they reached Cappoquin, mustering in money but one shilling 
and sixpence. They applied themselves to labour ; their farm was an unprofit- 
able moor, yielding heath and stones in abundance. The brethren cleared off the 
former, and made heaps of the latter, which they used as occasion required, in 
building houses, fences, &c. They commenced tillage, and were assisted by the 
peasantry of the surrounding country, who supplied them gratuitously with 
horses and cars, deeming it a duty to aid these servants of God, who, when their 
funds permitted, paid hire to all their assistants. In an incredibly short time the 
aspect of the place was changed. The stony waste was fertilized ; the barren 
district, where no foot, save the sportsman in pursuit of game, ever trod before, 



44 HISTORICAL AND TICTURESQUE GUIDE 

was divided into fields, and cut up by spade and ploughshare. The grouse, 
scared by the harrow, flew from their old haunts, and the snipe and hare found 
their province invaded, while they suffered no danger from the hand that 
disturbed. Beneath the unpromising surface of bog and furze-brake was a rich 
subsoil to work upon : when lime was applied, the garden yielded pease, beans, 
and other vegetables. 

The Abbey is exteriorly a plain structure. It encloses a quadrangular area. 
On three sides are ranges of building, 162 feet in length, 30 feet broad, and 
32 feet high. On the fourth side is the church, 185 feet in length, 30 feet within 
the nave, 52 feet in the transept, and 50 feet high. The spire reaches an eleva- 
tion of 140 feet. The stones used in the entire building are those picked off the 
land ; the mason-work, carpentry, painting, &c. is the labour of the brotherhood — 
a noble monument of combined labour and perseverance. There are about 300 
acres of the land reclaimed, and the rest in progress of improvement. They have 
a large dairy, thirty cows ; and have very fine green crops, turnips and potatoes. 
They grow a good deal of corn, principally wheat ; some rye ; and make their own 
bread and butter, which, with vegetables, form their diet — as no animal flesh is 
permitted by the rules of their order. The monks are in number about one hundred, 
and, with one or two exceptions, all English and Irish. Many have left rank and 
fortune to devote themselves to this contemplative life. Their costume consists 
of a white cloth robe ; over it a black cape, the long ends reaching down to the 
feet ; and a hood of the same covers the head. Perpetual silence is one of the 
most rigorous observances ; and while visiting the various portions of the establish- 
ment, beholding the numerous monks in their strange attire actively employed 
in various avocations, all silently pursuing the tenor of their way, leaves a curious 
sensation of novelty on the mind. Though they lead a life of continued mortifi- 
cation and labour, the brethren appear happy, and very healthy. No distinctions 
of rank or station are known. All rise at two o'clock every morning, summer 
and winter, and occupy themselves in devotional exercises chiefly until eleven, 
when they partake of their first meal. This consists of brown bread, stirabout, 
and potatoes ; their drink, water : an excellent spring affords an abundant supply, 
which is conveyed by pipes through the refectory. They have a repetition at six of 
their meagre fare ; and confine themselves to these two meals in the day. The 
dormitory is an immense apartment, over 100 feet in length, with wooden boxes, like 
stalls, on both sides : in each is a small bed and crucifix, leaving barely room for 
the inmate to dress and kneel to his devotions. The day is passed in prayer and 
labour in the fields, digging, ploughing, building, or in the workshops, making 
carts, gates, &c. Their taste for embellishment seems reserved for the chapel, 
and the small garden attached, — the future cemetery of the house. Some of the 
original monks already tranquilly sleep on the mountain breast, and the wild 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 45 

flowers bloom over their lowly graves. The interior of the chapel is splendid ; 
behind the altar is a magnificent window of coloured glass. An organ has been 
lately added ; the gift, I understand, of a gentleman, who passed some days here in 
religious retirement. The choir is beautiful, richly carved, and admirably painted. 
The whole displaying a beauty of design and finish of execution worthy the most 
accomplished architect. 

The enlightened tourist, whose curiosity is gratified by beholding this truly 
wonderful establishment will not fail to recollect how much we, who live in the 
nineteenth century, owe to the monastic institutions of former ages. The follow- 
ing extract from a work*, lately published, enables me to refer to some instances 
which are appropriate in this place : — 

" The means of diffusing and perpetuating knowledge were amply provided for 
by the labours of the monks who, from the times of St. Gregory the Great, were 
usually employed in transcribing manuscripts for some hours every day. But it 
was not for mere intellectual advantages and enjoyments that the English were 
indebted to the introduction of Christianity. It brought in its train all those 
humbler arts that are so indispensable to the well-being of society, as well as 
those which exalt and embellish the human character. The trades of the iron- 
smith, the joiner, and those who worked in the precious metals, were held in such 
high repute amongst the monastic orders, that it was considered honourable for 
the highest dignitaries not only to patronise but occasionally to ennoble them by 
practising with their own hands. In the female communities the labours of the 
distaff and the loom were plied with well-regulated assiduity ; and in needle-work 
and the art of embroidery the nuns of those ages attained a skill that has left the 
specimens of their works that have survived unrivalled for elegance even to the 
present day. But it was the superior knowledge and persevering industry of the 
monks as agriculturists that contributed more than any thing else to beautify the 
aspect of the whole country, and to enrich the population with an abundance of 
those substantial comforts to which the people had been theretofore almost total 
strangers. Some of the fairest and most fertile tracts of England were originally 
reclaimed from the desert and the morass by the self-devotedness especially of the 
Benedictine monks. Through a spirit of mortification and a love of solitude 
they usually preferred the most desolate and sequestered districts, and such as 
seemed to hold out the least hope of a return for the expenditure of fatigue. But 
labouring, as they did, through a spirit of penance and divine charity, they 
speedily effected what to the theowas, or slave labourers of lay -proprietors, must 
have ever remained impossibilities. And in addition to the spontaneous enthu- 



Rome as it was under Paganism, and as it became under the Popes. London, 1843. 



46 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

siasm with which as servants of Christ and of his needy members they applied 
themselves to toil, the monastic orders possessed immense advantages in these 
agricultural traditions of the ancient Romans which were cherished in the rural 
fraternities of St. Benedict long after they had been forgotten or lost every where 
else. They cleared the forest, drained the fenny regions, constructed roads and 
embankments, erected mills and bridges, and never hesitated to attempt whatever 
improvement it was not impossible for the most devoted industry to accomplish. 
The least favoured regions became the scenes of smiling plenty; the verdant 
meadow and rich pasture-lands extended where the stagnant waters of the marsh 
used before to engender pestilence ; and fragrant herbage and many-tinted flowers 
seemed to spring up and flourish wherever Religion passed through the land upon 
her errands of benediction." 

I have inserted this extract to remove from the memory of those who have been 
benefactors to posterity the thoughtless remarks which generally associate the 
words idle and lazy with monks. What those referred to in the above passage 
were in England the Trappists are to-day in Ireland. With equal zeal " they 
never hesitate to attempt whatever improvement it is not impossible for the most 
devoted industry to accomplish." With equal austerity, " through a spirit of 
mortification and love of solitude, they prefer the most desolate and sequestered 
districts, such as seem to hold out the least return for their labour ;" and the like 
result follows the untiring labours of this pious fraternity. They drain the fenny 
regions, construct roads and embankments ; erect a noble church and monastery ; 
the least-favoured mountain district becomes gradually the scene of smiling plenty ; 
and lo ! here, on this once barren hill, fragrant herbage and many-tinted flowers 
spring up and flourish ; for here Religion hath visited the land upon her errand 
of benediction. 



CAPPOQUIN TO LISMORE. 

Having returned to Cappoquin, we proceed to Lismore, distant four miles. The 
entire bank on the right is clothed with wood, frequently reaching to the water, 
and environing the various mansions with leafy honours. At Salterbridge, the 
seat of A. Chearnley, Esq., were formerly extensive iron-works, carried on by the 
Earl of Cork. Close by the river-side is Ballygelane, the property of N. P. O'Gor- 
man, Esq., Q. C, the worthy assistant barrister for Kilkenny. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



LISMORE. 

Lismore now appears above the trees on the south side of the river — the ma- 
jestic castle, seated proudly on its throne of rocks, and the slender spire of the 
cathedral shooting into the liquid sky. The town is of good size, and possesses a 
commodious hotel. The river affords great facility for commerce with Youghal. 
By means of the canal cut at the expense of the late Duke of Devonshire, corn 
and flour are exported, and timber, iron, coal, and miscellaneous articles are 
imported. 

By charter of James L, a. d. 1613, granted to Sir Richard Boyle, afterwards 
Earl of Cork, the town, with adjoining lands, within a mile and a half round the 
parish church, was made a free borough. It returned two members to Parliament, 
until disfranchised by the Union. The soil round the town abounds in minerals : 
in 1836 a lead-mine was discovered, but is not yet worked. 

The beauty of Lismore has often been described. In a work published long 
since, the author says, " I know of no spot where the admirer of the picturesque 
will be more highly gratified than in this grand mixture of the sublimity of 
nature with the stupendous works of man." * 

The name is derived from Lis, a fort, and mor, great — in reference to a mount, 
or ancient fortification standing a little to the east of the town, now called the 
Round Hill. It was more anciently called Magh-sgiath (i. e. the field of the 
shield) ; also Dun-sginne. Dun signifies a fort seated on an eminence, and sginne, 
a flight ; which seems to allude to the flight hither of St. Carthagh, in 636, who 
was driven from Lestmeath, where he founded the Abbey of Ratheny. 

An ancient author f thus describes it : — " Lesmor is a famous and holy city, half 
of which is an asylum into which no woman durst enter ; but it is full of cells and 
holy monasteries, and religious men, in great numbers, abide there ; and thither 
holy men flock together from all parts of Ireland ; and not only from Ireland, but 
from England, and Britain, being desirous to remove from thence to Christ ; and 
the city is built on the banks of the river Abanmor — that is, the Great River — in 
the territory of the Nan Deci, or Desies." The city of Lismore acquired great 
renown as a literary resort. Morinus, in his life of the founder of the University 
of Lismore, writes, — 

" Certatim hi properant diverso transite ad urbem 
Lismoriam, juvenis primos ubi transigit annos." 

* Sketches collected during a Tour in 1797, by G. Holmes, 
f In Butler's Lives of Saints, St. Carthagh, B. 



48 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

It is now an universally admitted fact, that at the period the northern hive of 
barbarians had devastated Southern Europe, and swept nearly every trace of 
civilization in their ruthless progress, Ireland, remote and insulated, was the cradle 
of science and art, the glory and boast of the western world. There her sages 
lectured and her bards sang, and the great and powerful of other lands came to 
drink of the fountains of knowledge profusely poured out. Amandatus est ad 
disciplinam in Hibernia was then as necessary to constitute an educated gentle- 
man as a degree in a university at present. 

" Exemplo patrum commotus amore legendi 
Ivit ad Hibernos, Sophia mirabile claros. " 

With love of learning, and examples fired, 
To Ireland, famed for wisdom, he retired. 

Devoted to learning, the Irish were not alone content with displaying an attach- 
ment to the sciences, and exhibiting unparalleled zeal to promote them at home, 
but extended their institutions abroad, and sent forth men of genius and piety, who 
became eminent in every part of Europe, in the early ages. Alfred the Great, who 
was the most renowned and most learned monarch in Europe, was educated here — 
in Hibernia omni philosophia animum composuit* : and here he acquired the skill 
on the Irish harp, which he afterwards employed so successfully, in procuring 
admission to the tent of Guthrum, the Danish prince, disguised as a harper, and 
while sojourning there, became acquainted with the manners and habits of his 
foes, and laid plans for defeating and banishing them from his kingdom. On his 
return to England, he invited Johannes Erigena to his court, and with the assist- 
ance of that Professor, founded the University of Oxford — probably on the plan 
of that of Lismore. Bede mentions an interesting instance of the liberality, and 
eagerness to impart the best instruction, evinced by our ancestors — " They not 
only liberally endowed seminaries for native pupils, but invited every foreigner to 
participate in the same pursuit ; and with a disinterestedness unknown in similar 
establishments of any people in their highest state of refinement, defrayed every 
expense, and gratuitously supplied the literary guests with every accommodation." 

Lismore Castle, the present principal attraction of more modern times, was built 
by King John, a. d. 1185, and was surprised by the Irish in 1189, who displayed 
their inveterate hostility by slaying the garrison, with Robert Barry, the governor. 
When rebuilt, it was occupied by the bishops as their residence, until the time of 
Milor Magrath, who, with the consent of the Dean and Chapter, granted it to Sir 
Walter Raleigh, from whom, with the rest of his possessions, it was purchased by 
the Earl of Cork. Early in the insurrection of 1641, the castle was besieged by 

* Gul. Malm. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 49 

5000 Irish, under Sir Richard Beling, but was bravely defended by the Earl's 
son, Lord Broghill, and the assailants compelled to retire. In 1643, a party of 
insurgents, in retaliation for the destruction of Clogheen by the garrison of Lis- 
more, burned a number of thatched houses, killed sixty of the inhabitants, and made 
several prisoners. And, in the same year, General Purcell united his forces with 
those of Lord Muskerry, and laid siege to the castle. After a week, a cessation of 
arms was agreed to, and the besiegers withdrew. The castle suffered much in this 
war, and was subsequently burned by Lord Castlehaven, in 1645. It was some- 
what repaired soon after, for we find, in 1686, the Earl of Clarendon, in his tour 
through Munster, slept within the walls ; and again, in 1689, it was visited by 
James II. In 1785, the Duke of Rutland, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, held a 
council here, and issued several proclamations. The castle, with its appur- 
tenances, descended from the Earls of Cork and Burlington, by marriage, in 1748, 
of Lady Charlotte Boyle with William Cavendish, fourth Duke of Devonshire, the 
ancestor of his Grace the Duke of Devonshire. 

It is situated on the summit of a perpendicular range of woody rock, over- 
hanging the Blackwater. The scene which meets the sight is very beautiful. The 
bridge, a fine structure, spans the main part of the river by the great arch of a 
hundred feet, and we see six smaller ones underneath the causeway, intended to 
carry off the flood. This bridge was erected by the late Duke of Devonshire, at 
the cost of 9000/. Immediately above the light and graceful bridge appears the 
thick foliage of huge trees, flinging their boughs over the river, while richly 
covered rocks rise to a fearful height, crowned by the feudal towers of this ducal 
pile. The portions next us half disclose their antique casements, the ivied turrets 
and shelving roofs are concealed by the nodding trees. Farther off, the square- 
built towers are boldly defined against the brown woods, and high over all the 
venerable and lofty trees raise their shady branches, and form a verdant canopy. 
I proceeded to visit the interior, and, as I paced along the ancient avenue, felt 
awed by the solitary grandeur of the scene. Beside me the tall trees cast a 
shadow on the outer gate-house in front, giving its neglected towers a deep and 
solemn shade. Behind it was the stately castle, lifting its high embattled walls, 
blackened by the hand of time, and ivy the growth of centuries. I thought of 
Lord Frederick Evesham, in Florence Mac Carthy, terrifying Lady Dunore at this 
spot, as thus described by Lady Morgan : — 

" The splendid cavalcade at last arrived before the turreted gates of the castle 
of Dunore ; and, as the carriages rolled over the pavement of the gloomy court, 
and the tenants of the old rookery in the rear of the castle screamed their dis- 
approbation of the unusual intrusion, Lady Dunore's susceptible spirits again sank 
from their high -wound pitch. 

" God send us safe out of this wild country!" said her ladyship, with a deep sigh. 



50 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

" Amen," said young Crawley, most emphatically. 

" Amen," repeated Lord Frederick, most theatrically ; adding, 

" The raven himself is hoarse 
That croaks the fatal entrance of Duncan 
Under my battlements. " 

" Good heavens ! " exclaimed Lady Dunore ; " how can you, Lord Frederick ? 
You, too, who were in part the cause of bringing me here, with your ridiculous 
accounts of the ' celestial empire,' and your ' chop mandarins,' that made me die 
laughing in London, are a monstrous dull set out here ! " 

The carriages stopped before the last gate ; and the lights flashed full upon — 

" God's providence is my inheritance." 

This inscription, the motto of the Earls of Cork, is yet over the archway, and, 
on passing underneath, I stood in a spacious courtyard. On each side are ranges 
of offices belonging to the castle, which faces the entrance, and forms a parallel- 
ogram. The castle is kept in excellent repair, and his Grace occasionally pays it 
a visit. He is much beloved as a kind, considerate landlord, and is well repre- 
sented by his agent, F. E. Curry, Esq., son to the late respected Colonel Curry. 
Mr. Curry resides in the castle, and several of my military friends who have 
partaken of his hospitality bear honourable testimony to the attention and 
kindness they received. Though the contrast is striking between the ancient and 
modern parts, united they produce a pleasing effect ; but the loneliness of the place 
is depressing. Even the eagle chained near the doorway looks wild and untamed, 
as if he never left his solitary eyrie. A man or two, loitering about, seemed as 
if they served nobody, without serving themselves. I was met at the entrance by 
the housekeeper, and after leaving my autograph in the hall — a low roofed apart- 
ment — followed my cicerone. She led the way upstairs, and conducted me through 
several apartments, none remarkable for size. There are some choice paintings, 
and two fine pieces of tapestry — a " Dutch Wedding" and " Dutch Fair." The 
colours were bright and natural, and the figures true to life. The view from one 
of the windows is startling. Down about a thousand feet the Blackwater glides, 
and you hear — 

" The fretful melody 
Of water, gurgling through the rugged weir, 
Brought on the breeze." 

King James II. dined in this room, and, on looking out of the window, nearly 
fell back in terror at its precipitate elevation over the river. In another apart- 
ment, Robert Boyle, the philosopher, " father of modern chemistry, and brother 







: 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



51 



to the Earl of Cork," as one of his admirers described him, was born 25th January, 
1626-7 : he was the seventh son and fourteenth child of the first Earl of Cork. 




I know nothing superior to the prospect enjoyed from the casemented projecting 
window of the tapestried chamber in Lismore Castle. It looks on the river, 
flowing several hundred feet beneath, gliding in its onward course under the 
graceful bridge and watering a rich and verdant valley. The hills do not contract 
the fair meadow inches which display the hue of the emerald in their green banks. 
Clumps of trees afford shelter and shade to flocks and herds. There are vistas 
presented to the sight, and high mountains peep from the lateral glens, through 
which the tributary streamlets from the hills pour into the Black water. 

Inglis says, " Nothing can exceed in richness and beauty the view from the 
bridge, when at evening the deep woods, and the grey castle, and the still river, 
are left in shade, while the sun, streaming up the valley, gilds all the soft slopes 
and knolls that lie opposite ; the bridge ; the castle, grey and massive, with its 
ruined and ivy -grown towers ; and the beautiful tapering spire of the church ; all 
combine to form a scene we gaze on with pleasure, and turn away from with 
regret." 

There are numerous weirs on this part of the river — no fewer than forty-two 
salmon weirs between Youghal and Lismore ; one under the castle is very pro- 
ductive : the fishing is rented from the Duke by Mr. Foley, at 700/. a year. In 



52 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



the work on Ireland, by Mr. and Mrs. Hall, we find, " If the river in the neigh- 
bourhood of Lismore were free, we doubt if there be any place in the United 
Kingdom that would promise so ample a recompense to the votaries of the gentle 
craft ; and we presume to hint, that so great would be the consequent influx of 
visiters to this beautiful town, that a far greater revenue would arise to the Duke 
than that which he derives from the rental of the weir." 

The recent changes in the fishery laws are of such general importance as to 
deserve a brief notice. It is now enacted by 5 & 6 Victoria, c. 106., commonly 
called the Fishery Act, that all regulations relative to the fisheries of Ireland in 
existence prior to the passing of that act be repealed, and control invested for 
the future in the commissioners for public works, with certain prescribed powers 
for their guidance. 

By this Act the use of trawl or trammel nets is prohibited at any place in any 
season, or dredges, nets, instruments, or engines, for the destruction of fish 
within the limits of an oyster-bed, being private property ; but the proprietor of a 
salmon fishery, his lessee or assignee, has power to erect stake-weirs, stake- 
nets, bag-nets, or other fixed nets, for the taking of salmon, in or along any 
estuary, subject to the provisions contained in the Act ; which privilege is 
extended to the proprietors and certain lessees of lands adjoining such estuaries, 
where no several fishery exists. The Act specifies the description of net to be 
used. The meshes must have a space of two inches and a half between knot and 
knot ; and not even these are allowed if placed in any manner hurtful to the 
navigation : they cannot be permitted to extend further than from high to low 
water-mark, or to be placed at the mouths of narrow salmon rivers. After 
the 1st of January, 1844, no fish of the salmon kind shall be taken in any river, 
lake, or estuary, during the interval between the 20th of August and the 11th of 
February, nor any taking of trout in the interval of the 1st of October and 12th 
of February. Eels shall not be taken in rivers by nets, baskets, or any other 
fixed engine, between the 1st of July and 10th of January. Persons catching 
fish during the seasons thus prohibited, or exposing for sale any of the fish so 
defined to be protected, are rendered liable to severe penalties. Destroying or 
taking salmon or trout by cribs, boxes, sluices, weirs, or nets, is also strictly for- 
bidden from six o'clock on Saturday evening to six o'clock on Monday morning, 
during which time a free passage of four feet wide shall be left for the fish, and at 
all times a free gap, or queen's share, in the deepest part of the river. The Act 
expressly forbids this queen's gap being narrowed by the erection of any spur or 
tail walls ; and no person shall fish with rod and line, or in any manner whatsoever 
in any gap or queen's share, in any weir, or within fifty yards above or below 
such weir. Cross-fishing, either for trout or salmon, is also prohibited, save by the 
proprietor of a several fishery, or any person duly authorised by him in writing, 



TO THE EWER BLACKWATER. 53 

within the limits thereof. All persons wilfully taking from, or offering to sell, 
unclean, spent, or unseasonable fish, are liable to penalties ; likewise all netting of 
salmon or other fish in mill-dams or water-courses. 

The Blackwater abounds with salmon, trout, perch, and pike. The principal 
portion of the river adapted to the sport of the angler is from Lismore to Mallow. 
There is excellent fly-fishing in the vicinity of Fermoy ; and two of the tributa- 
ries to the Blackwater, the Funcheon and Bride, are excellent trout streams. 
There are fishing-tackle warehouses in Fermoy for the sale of flies, &c. suited to 
the respective rivers ; and the sportsman need not be under any anxiety about a 
guide to the haunts of the finny tribe, as sufficient disciples of Izaak Walton 
abound ready to accompany the stranger for a small consideration. My poetic 
companion of yore, the " poor but contented Pat Sheehan," as he generally sub- 
scribed his effusions, has a growing progeny to supply his place. 

I should have expected the obliging servant who accompanied me over the 
castle to have been acquainted with some of the particulars which give interest to 
a visit of this kind ; but though she heard of the great Lord Boyle, it was all I 
could learn from her. The letter written during the siege in 1641, when Lord 
Broghill held the castle against the Irish is very spirited, and concludes thus : — 

" My lord, fear nothing for Lismore ; for, if it be lost, it shall be with the life of 
him that begs your lordship's blessing, and styles himself your lordship's most 
humble, most obliged, and most dutiful son and servant, 

" Broghill." 

Lismore is by some said to be the birth-place of Congreve, the dramatist ; his 
father having some military appointment in Lreland, which occasioned his being 
stationed in the South. He was educated partly at Kilkenny, and afterwards 
completed his studies in Dublin. When at the age of sixteen he was sent to 
study law in the Middle Temple, where he lived for several years ; but with little 
progress in the science of jurisprudence. 

The historic recollections of Lismore are not confined to its ancient renown as 
a literary institution, or the fame of its castle. Here, according to Matthew 
Paris, Henry II. first promulgated English law in L-eland in 1172. After landing 
at Waterford he marched to this place, where he was met by the chiefs of 
Munster, who, with the archbishops, bishops, and abbots of Ireland, swore allegi- 
ance, and gave him a charter confirming the kingdom of Ireland to him and his 
heirs for ever. 

The records of this important transaction are both scanty and contradictory ; 
but the weight of evidence goes to prove that the Irish prelates on this occasion 
sacrificed the independence of their country to a foreign monarch, on condition of 
having their ecclesiastical privileges maintained against the usurpations of the 



54 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

Irish chieftains. The reformation of religion was the pretence offered in the 
bulls of Popes Adrian and Alexander for granting the sovereignty of Ireland to 
the monarch of England ; and this reformation was interpreted by the prelates to 
mean investing their order with the same political power in Ireland which it pos- 
sessed in England. The eagerness of the clergy to tender allegiance to Henry in 
Waterford, Lismore, and Cashel, strongly confirms the assertion that the English 
sovereignty was sought by the hierarchy ; and this is indeed subsequently asserted 
by their body in complaints of the violation of the compact addressed to the court 
of Rome. Matthew Paris expressly declares that the terms on which Henry was 
to obtain the sovereignty of Ireland were arranged in a synod or council at 
Lismore, the bishop of which see was the pope's legate. Modern opinions of the 
transaction are an unfair standard of j udgment. In the twelfth century public 
consent invested prelates with powers which they could not refuse, even if they 
were so inclined ; and it was natural that they should use them to strengthen 
their order, which they honestly believed to be the best security for the mainte- 
nance of civilised society. Lismore, as the place where the compact which gave 
Ireland to English rule was made, will excite different reflections in different 
minds ; but its historical associations, however various, must be equally interesting 
to all. 

The Cathedral Church is close to the castle ; the approach is from the town, 
through an avenue with a fine row of trees. It is the only remaining ancient 
church of those formerly here (some say as many as twenty), and was dedicated 
to St. Carthagh. This sacred edifice was often in considerable danger. In 1 1 73, 
when Raymond le Gros and Strongbow wasted the Decies country, they extorted 
a large sum of money from the then bishop to prevent the cathedral from being 
burned. The great care bestowed did not always avail. It sustained considerable 
damage in Elizabeth's reign from Edmund Fitzgibbon, called the White Knight, 
so called most probably from the colour of his armour. It was restored in 1663, 
at the expense of the Earl of Cork ; and has been lately repaired, when a square 
tower, surmounted by a light and taper spire, was added. The entrance is at the 
extremity of the south transept, under a pure Norman arch. The windows of the 
choir are of stained glass, and the bishop's throne and prebends' stalls richly 
carved oak. There are many tasteful monuments to the deceased members of 
families in the neighbourhood — Musgrave, Chearnley, Lovett, and others. 
Among the more striking are the tablets to the memory of Archdeacon Ryan and 
Dean Scott. One ancient tomb, inscribed to the family of Mac Grath, dated 
1548, is richly sculptured; on the side stones are figures of the apostles in 
bas-relief, the upper stone is divided into compartments ; time has nearly ob- 
literated the design and inscription. 

Near the church are two small caves, and one in the grove near the castle. 



TO THE RIVER BLACK WATER. 55 

Several entrenchments, vestiges of war's footsteps, are in the neighbourhood. A 
[ double trench, called Rinke-Bo-Padruic, or Dance of St. Patrick's Cow, is in this 
j parish ; of which the legend is, that it was the work of St. Patrick's cow, when 
I she went to Ardmore in search of her calf which had been stolen. Dr. Smith 
j conjectures it is the trace of an ancient highway from Cashel to Ardmore, between 
which two places there was formerly frequent intercourse. A single trench runs 
i from Cappoquin along the side of the mountains into county Cork, supposed to have 
been a "boundary or fence made to preserve the cattle against wolves." Some 
mineral waters are met with. Midway between Lismore and Cappoquin is a 
weak chalybeate water, and a strong chalybeate spring near Glenmore. The soil 
is in general fertile ; the lands arable and pasture ; and there is not much bog. 
Slate quarries are contiguous to the town ; and abundance of limestone, silicious 
rock, conglomerate, and sandstone, also present themselves. Iron, copper, and 
lead ores, have formerly been worked, but are now discontinued for want of fuel* ; 
it is, however, hoped the facility afforded by the navigation of the Blackwater 
will cause this evil to be speedily remedied. No measure more calculated to 
benefit the country and develope her vast natural resources can engage the atten- 
tion of the patriot and philanthropist. The intercourse which it necessarily causes 
would do more to dispel erroneous notions and prejudices, and remove animosities, 
than centuries of legislation. Let manufacturing industry prevail — let the 
labouring mechanic find employment, and peace and order will be united to 
temperance. Let not our lovely river flow unheeded by as " a sealed book." 
Employ the people. The river presents no obstacle, but there is work to be had 
— establishing beacons and guides through the channel, constructing quays, land- 
ing places ; clearing banks, giving means of employment, and directing the 
energies of the people to useful works. 

The opening of the Blackwater river will be of vast service to the entire of the 
country along its banks, affording new sources of employment to the people, and 
enabling the farmers to purchase coal and culm, and to burn lime at a moderate rate. 
By establishing lines of intercourse, and promoting industrious pursuits, feelings 
of discontent would be dissipated, and crime, originating most commonly in 
poverty and idleness, receive a wholesome check by removing its main cause. 
This river appears designed by nature to form a cheap and convenient mode of 
communication between the interior of this populous country with the sea, and 
demands little aid from art to render it highly beneficial. The present obstruc- 
tions arise from beds of gravel, which cause rapids or shallows in the main channel, 
and in summer time the water is so shallow that a vessel moderately laden cannot 



Lewis's Top. Diet, of Ireland. Lismore. Vide also Ryland's Waterford, 353. 



56 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

pass, which almost amounts to a prohibition against carrying on trade with cer- 
tainty. Sufficient water for flat-bottomed boats is, however, attainable ; and we 
have ourselves ascended it at a period of drought when the river was remarkably 
low, without meeting any serious impediment. 

Sir Richard Musgrave, Bart., who most energetically devoted his time and 
talents, and by purse and example laboured to advance the condition of his 
fellow countrymen by directing their attention to the great wealth lying useless 
and neglected in their native land, observes : — " Above and below these shallows 
or rapids there is always a considerable depth of water : a good pull for 100 yards 
takes a boat over a rapid, and then there is generally, or rather invariably, a long 
reach of deep water, with a gentle current." He considers that as a general rule 
it would not be advisable to remove these beds of gravel. — " They answer the 
purpose of embankments. The rapid or inclined plane of water supplies, in a 
great degree, the advantage of a lock, and requires less time in passing. An anchor 
placed just above the rapid, with a chain attached to it, would afford great facility. 
A boat might then easily ascend by attaching this chain to a winch in her bow." 
The navigation of the Garonne is most useful for commerce, and this may be 
also said of many other rapid and shallow rivers. " The condition of the popu- 
lation of Sweden, France, and many other countries as to food and clothing is 
much superior to that of the population of Ireland. There are many causes for 
our inferiority. But one powerful cause no doubt is, the neglect of the natural 
resources of Ireland. Public attention is directed to the prospect of grand lines 
of railway, while valuable and cheap lines of communication by water are neg- 
lected." 

There is nothing can confer greater benefit on any country than a cheap and 
ready mode of conveying her agricultural produce to her sea-ports ; or, as the 
Commissioners of Public Works report, what Ireland stands most in need of at 
present is, a cheap and expeditious means of having her agricultural produce 
conveyed from the heart of the country to the extremities. The worst crimes of 
the people are produced through poverty, and its concomitant idleness, and not 
through any innate depravity of the population. Remove the cause, and the re- 
sult is certain of being gratifying to the lover of order and peace. Give but a 
good line of water-carriage along the Blackwater, and it will be the means of 
inducing capitalists to establish factories, for they will find every facility for trade. 
Cheap labour, cheap and plentiful provisions, and a ready mode of shipping their 
goods to the mart for the produce of their industry. Again ; see the great blessing 
to the population who reside in the vicinity of this navigable river. It runs along 
a country of 75 miles, which, doubling the length of coast, gives 150 miles. For 
about 50 miles it has a depth of water sufficient for all purposes of internal inter- 
course. We have, then, 100 miles which would be clearly benefited by the 



TO THE RIVER BLACK WATER. 57 

j navigation. The greater portion of this line has a substratum of limestone, 
rendering it dry, and yields an abundant harvest of grain, and other pro- 
duce. There is, however, much deep loam, strong tenacious soil, requiring manure 
and labour. Some farms along the banks yield wheat and potatoes, and others 
lighter crops, while miles of fertile meadow-land afford pasturage for droves of 
sheep and black cattle. Now it requires but little argument to show how so great 
a tract of thickly populated country would be benefited by interchange of products. 
Sand, so excellent for manure, might be had reasonably. Coal and culm to burn 
lime might be brought in a lighter of from 50 to 60 tons to Cappoquin or Lis- 
more, and then transferred to flat-bottomed boats for the more shallow waters. 
Building materials, stone, sand, flags, bricks, slates, &c. could be easily brought from 
those districts in which they abound, and readily disposed of where they do not exist, 
and are only to be procured now at a great expense. The towns would derive much 
benefit also from the intercourse of passengers and strangers. Possessing the at- 
tractions of exquisite scenery, it is more than probable that thousands of our 
fellow-subjects of this and the sister countries, hitherto ignorant of the lovely 
landscapes on every side of the river, will gladly avail themselves of the means 
afforded to permit their enjoying them, and resort to our hotels and places of 
entertainment. The Rhine has become familiar as a high road, and even Switzer- 
land is now well known : any novelty is sure to have an influx of visitors ; and I 
feel proud to say the banks of the Black water from Youghal to Mallow, and for 
miles higher, may fairly rival those of any European river for the same distance. 

FROM LISMORE TO FERMOY. 

A weir belonging to the Duke of Devonshire, already described, crosses the 
river at Lismore, and prevents its continuous navigation ; but the possibility of 
transit to a much higher point has been indisputably established by Sir Richard 
Musgrave, whose flat-bottomed boat the " John Anderson," has made several trips 
between Lismore and Fermoy. The want of a towing-path renders it necessary 
that the boat should be drawn by men the greater part of the distance, but for 
some miles above the castle the water is sufficiently deep to allow of the use of 
oars. Evidences of genial climate and fertile soil abound at the point where deep 
water begins. There is a fuchsia trained against the wall of a house, more than 
twenty feet high, presenting one mass of rich flower from the root to the top- 
most stem. A finer sheet of water than the expanse of the river above the castle 
could not easily be found. Though visitors cannot precisely say — 

We were the first that ever burst 
Into that silent sea, 

yet the upper Blackwater is still but little known, and we felt something of the 



58 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



excitement belonging to the explorers of unknown lands when we embarked in 
Sir R. Musgrave's boat, just where the river seems almost to expand into a lake 
above the castle. 

The view here is very fine. To the left facing the south is the ducal castle, 
with the graceful bridge ; while the shapely spire of the venerable cathedral 
reminds the tourist that he beholds a holy edifice, and he remembers the ancient 
glories of Lismore. Other seats in the neighbourhood are Ballyinn, P. Foley, 
Esq., and Tourtain, T. Foley, Esq. About a mile west, on the north bank, 
is a splendid domain, Ballysaggartmore, the residence of Arthur Usher, Esq. 




The avenue opens by a noble entrance, of which the accompanying sketch is a 
faithful representation ; the gate is the work of a native mechanic, and cost 150/., 
and the masonry is constructed of mountain granite, which is well suited to the 
Gothic architecture. The avenue leads through a dense wood, and winds along a 
steep hill, a perfectly level drive, though the mountain rises to a great height, and 
the descent on the other side is very great. A mountain torrent brawls along the 
bottom, and after a fretful course falls into the Blackwater. This is crossed by a 
castellated bridge, of which we subjoin an engraving. Nothing can be more ro- 
mantic than this castle in the woods. On every side are trees and hills, with the 
river in the distance ; and the dash and flow of the torrent falls pleasingly amid 
the solitude. When the bend of the road shows the cluster of towers, and arched 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



59 



passages with the parapets of the bridge as if raised by magic, the scene is par- 
ticularly striking. It is all so executed as to bear traces of antiquity, and in 
excellent unison with the beautiful scenery of the vicinity. 




QS/ 



Adjoining is Flower Hill, the sweetly-situated mansion of Barry Drew, Esq. 
The grounds are laid out with much taste, and kept in excellent order. It com- 
mands a pleasing view of the river, and the attractions of its shores ; and close 
by is the waterfall of Glenmore. The distant hills over Cappoquin now appear 
indistinct, and Knockmeldown looks a dark hazy mass. Opposite is a tastefully- 
planted demesne and handsome house, Fort-William, seat of J. Gumbleton, Esq. ; 
and not far from this are the ruins of the castle of Ballygarron, once the seat of 
the Gays. 

The Gumbletons have been settled in this country about 150 years. They came 
from Kent, and purchased Ballygarron Castle and Manor on the river Blackwater. 
Since then they have acquired much valuable property in the neighbourhood of 
Lismore, Curry glass, and Tallow. Fort- William House, seat of John Gumbleton 
already mentioned ; Belgrove, the handsome seat of Rev. George Gumbleton ; 



60 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



Curryglass House, seat of the late William Gumbleton, Esq. ; Castle View, seat of 
Richard Gumbleton, Esq., married to a Miss Fowke of Gloucestershire ; Marston, 
seat of R. Gumbleton, Esq., mentioned infra, sufficiently attest their respectability 
along the banks of the Blackwater. We glide by some pretty landscapes. The 
river here enables the rowers to pull, and the landscape on every side is worthy the 
noble river. Opposite Flower Hill is Glenbeg, the seat of George Bennet 
Jackson, Esq. It is charmingly situated, and there is a walk along the margin of 
the river planted with great taste ; its shady vista being composed of noble beech 
trees of great size and beauty. A curious natural cavern was discovered some 
time since in the demesne. 

Glencairn Abbey, the seat of the Bushe family, but at present occupied by the 
Right Hon. Dr. Keating, Judge of the Prerogative Court, as his summer residence, 




|i°^Mr 



M? 




forms no inconsiderable feature in the view before us. It is about three miles 
from Lismore, and surrounded by a finely-planted demesne. The architecture is 
quite in the Abbey style, and the interior boasts some good rooms ; the aspect 
agreeable, and the grounds command many charming prospects. From a rustic 
summer-house built over the river, the view of Flower Hill on the opposite bank 
is truly enchanting. 

Under Glencairn the water becomes shallow, and impeded by rapids. We have 
some very shallow water at Ballygally, the property of G. H. Jackson, Esq., and 
the sturdy boatmen find a difficulty in surmounting these ; but again, en route, we 
proceed to Ballyduff bridge, the property of Sir Richard Musgrave, Bart. This 
place must now possess interest for the advocates of the inland navigation of the 



TO THE RIVER BLACK WATER. 61 



Blackwater, for here was first launched the " John Anderson," to ply between Lis- 
more and Glandelane. There are ruins of an extensive mansion here, once belonging 
to the Drew family. It was of considerable strength, and protected by a curtain 
wall, pierced for musketry. 

In the confusion which followed the civil wars of 1641 and 1690, this part of 
the country appears to have been exposed to the depredations of the disbanded 
soldiery of the defeated armies, and hence arose the necessity of fortifying this 
mansion ; in other respects this little place possesses no importance, for the village 
of Ballyduff is small, and thinly inhabited. There is, however, an appearance of 
cleanliness and comfort in the cottages which bespeaks the fostering care of a kind 
and intelligent landlord. 

There is a good depth of water from Ballyduff to Marston ; the banks on each 
side abound in varieties of wild herbs and flowers, affording pleasure to the bota- 
nist as well as to those who love the simple beauties of nature. Marston, the 
residence of R. Gumbleton, Esq., is built in the ornate cottage style, which har- 
monises well with the surrounding scenery. Here some shallows impede the 
navigation ; but this defect could easily be remedied by engineering science. 

Continuing our voyage, we reach the ruins of Macollop Castle, a monument of 




the early Anglo-Norman conquerors, and distinguished in the annals of the feudal 
wars between the Geraldines and the Butlers. It consists of a circular keep or 
donjon, flanked at the base with square towers, and is similar in character to many 
of the old border-fortresses between England and Scotland. Nearly half of the 



62 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

principal tower was battered down by Cromwell's cannon, but the winding stair- 
case is still tolerably perfect, and is worth ascending for the sake of the rich 
prospect from the summit of the castle. 

Adjoining is a comfortable mansion, lately occupied by Francis Drew, Esq. ; and 
on his demise it came, by marriage of his daughter and sole heiress, to James 
Barry, Esq., of Ballyclogh, late captain 15th Foot, who recently filled the office of 
high sheriff of the county Cork. The domain is finely planted. Thick woods rise 
behind the house, while the distant hills of Clogheen and Kil worth close the view. 
This property possesses several valuable cider orchards ; and some years ago the 
cider made here by Mr. Drew lost the premium given by the Dublin Society, being 
so excellent in its kind, that the gentlemen who were judges imagined it to be 
mixed with foreign wine ; but the following year, being undeceived, they granted 
the premium.* The cider made on Captain Barry's property still preserves a 
reputation worthy its locality. 

The river winds like a writhing serpent, and is very shallow and rapid above 
Macollop. A little west of the house are traces where stood a wooden bridge, 
swept away by a high flood in 1838, to the great inconvenience of the inhabitants 
of the district. All along the north bank rich lawns, dotted with clumps of noble 
trees, lead to Kilmurry, seat of Thomas Grant, Esq. The new line of road, close 
to the water, shows a vast cliff of limestone, which would be of the greatest benefit 
if transported to districts where such material is required for buildings, or lime- 
burning. This is one of the great benefits which the facility of intercourse, 
brought on by inland navigation, confers — the facility of interchange of products 
of the various districts along the banks. 

To the south is a wooded tract of country lying in the county of Waterford, 
called Waterpark, where are still to be seen the remains of a stately mansion, 
formerly belonging to Chief Justice Pyne. There is a district on the north bank, 
called Inchinlema, in which was anciently a castle of Grauna ni Churimuth, but of 
which I could find no trace save vague tradition. A well, by the road-side, is 
called Tubber Grauna, and Garrison Well. A military barrack was here formerly, 
and a tan-yard : they too have gone, and left no sign ; but there are good farm- 
houses belonging to Michael Quirk, and two brothers named Flynn. Kilmurry 
is a fine old mansion, commandingly placed, on the side of a well-wooded hill on 
the north bank ; and its proprietor, Mr. Grant, promises fair to sustain the highly 
esteemed character of his honourable house. Opposite is Kilbarry, the splendidly 
situate and hospitable mansion of Henry Wigmore, Esq. Higher up than Kil- 
murry we meet a small island in the river. The north bank here falls precipitously 
into the stream, a dense mass of rock : tall firs nod from the summit. Opposite, 

* Smith's Cork, vol. i. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



63 



on the south bank, is Careysville, the handsome seat of Edward Carey, Esq., built 
on a rocky eminence over the river. Here was a strong castle of the Condons, 
called Ballymac Patrick. In January, 1642, this castle was taken by David, Earl 
of Barrymore, after an obstinate resistance. Close by are Glandelane Mills, and a 
high mill race, which requires a lock to free the navigation of the river. The ruins 
on a rock to the north are those of Ballyderoon, or town between two rivers — the 
Ariglen and Funcheon, which fall into the Blackwater close to Mount Rivers, the 
elegant and picturesque seat of Matthias Hendley, Esq. Near this is a neat house 
of Rev. T. Newenham, rector of Kilworth, and Moore Park, the finely -planted 
demesne of the Earl of Mountcashel. 




The house of Moore Park is a spacious mansion, commanding a fine view. The 
front looks into a nobly-wooded lawn of considerable extent, and adorned with 
clumps of trees, in various detached groupings. There is a fine selection of 
paintings, some rare master-pieces, in Lord Mountcashel's collection. The in- 
habitants of this country owe him much gratitude, for his benevolent exertions to 
advance the navigation of the river, of which he is practically illustrating the 
feasibility. Two large boats have been recently built for him, under the super- 
intendence of Alfred Cleverley, Esq., and are admirably adapted to the river. 
The boats brought a great number on board as far as Fermoy bridge, and draw 



64 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

little water. By such examples as the Earl of Mountcashel and Sir Richard 
Musgrave, the rest of the proprietors may be induced to assist so valuable a 
measure as unfolding the resources of their native land, by establishing a cheap 
and convenient water carriage. 

In the domain, near the river Funcheon, is a strong castle, Cloghleagh, or Grey- 
stone, a tall square tower, rounded at the angles, built by the Condons. In 
" Smith's History of Cork," vol. ii. p. 147., there is the following circumstantial 
account of a desperate engagement fought here : — " Sir Charles Vavasor marched 
towards Condon's country, and took the castle of Cloghleagh, on 3d June, 1643, 
after an obstinate defence of Condon the governor. Next day the Irish assembled 
in such force, that the victors were compelled to retreat, and Sir Charles ordered 
the cannon to hasten to Fermoy, to help to defend that pass. He then led on his 
army ; but on entering a defile, was charged on by the Irish, and nearly all were 
slain. According to some, 600 were killed. Sir Charles Vavasor, and almost all 
the officers, fell in this engagement." I thought, when recurring to this event, that 
Dr. Smith laboured under some mistake, because the castle at this time belonged 
to the Fleetwoods, from whom the Earl of Mountcashel's ancestors purchased it. 
He showed me the patents granting it ; the first dated 3d September, 29 Elizabeth, 
granted to Thomas Fleetwood and Marmaduke Redmayn ; the second confirm- 
ing it in Charles II. 's reign. I find, however, that the very year before that 
mentioned in " Smith's History," namely, July, 1642, this castle, then the pro- 
perty of Sir Richard Fleetwood, was taken by Lord Barrymore, and the custody of 
it entrusted to Sir Arthur Hyde, from whom it was afterwards taken by a descend- 
ant of the original founder, who surprised the garrison. He was in possession 
when attacked by Sir Charles Vavasor. 

Some distance from the foot of the castle the Funcheon runs under a neat 
bridge, and falls into the Blackwater at Hallihan's rock. 

Among a collection of legends narrated of this locality are the following, which, 
I hope, may serve to amuse the reader. One is entitled, " The Enchanted Horse 
of Cloghleagh Castle ; " the other, which contains reminiscences of a gay spirit 
now gathered to his fathers, relates divers moving accidents, under the title of 
" The Haunted Huntsman, a Tale of the Blackwater side." 



THE ENCHANTED HORSE OF CLOGHLEAGH CASTLE. 

There lived not long ago, near the ivy-covered ruins of the ancient church of 
Kilcrumper, a poor labouring man, of the name of Larry, or Laurence Toomy. 
Many were the pleasant hours Larry and I spent together. Methinks I see him 
now, sitting on one of the time-worn tombstones, with his grandchild in his arms, 
and surrounded by half a score of the neighbours' children, enjoying the setting 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 65 

sun. The evening breeze tranquilly playing 'mid his silver locks, which seemed 
to vie in antiquity with the moss-grown stone he had chosen for his seat. 

Various were the stories which Larry's proximity to that airy place could fur- 
nish (all of which were, of course, undeniably true) ; but there was one he took 
particular pride in relating, as he himself was the subject : it was, as I recollect, 
nearly as follows. Larry loquitur : — 

" When I was a young man, some fifty years back, I was very fond ov a smoke 
ov tobaccy, so that it was a great source ov throuble to be wid-out it ; an' one day, 
plase your honour, as I was goin out to the work, I desired my wife to have a 
pen'orth ov it, wid-out fail, for me when I returned. 

" The first thing I did when I came home in the evenin was to ax (ask) for it ; 
an' if I did, she up an' tould me, as how she had something else to do all day, mind- 
in the childer, and she was so busy that she forgot it. To be sure I was very 
vexed, giving her at the same time a great hearing, when, my dear life an' sowl, she 
opened at me, called me a Boulam skeich *, and a grate many other impertinances, 
when I tuk the three-legged stool, an' was goin to strike her, but constrained 
miself. — ' Grive me my penny,' sis I, an' away I wint the short cut through the 
fields to Kilworth, acrass the ford. 

There happened to have been some rain the days before, so that there was a 
swell in the river ; but seein an ould horse grazing on the bank, sis I to myself, 
* Faix,' sis I, * may be this chap will take me over,' an' as it was gettin dark, I knew 
that if I had him I wouldn't be long. 

" ' Come, my ould haro,' sis I, ' you'll save me the throuble of strippin to-night, 
any how ; ' so, by dad, up I got, as bould as a lion, an' dhrove him into the ford. 

" "Well, when we got into the middle ov the wather, instead of goin over straight, 
he biggin to face down the river, an' no kicks nor thumps could alther his coorse. 
Well ! whin we came to Downing Bridge, it would do your heart good to see the 
iligant fine leap he tuk from the middle ov the river, cliver an' clane, to the top ov 
the battlements ov the bridge, wid me ridin him all the time. (I never seen such 
another leap, only one. I heard the Paudreen mare give out anear Mallow, from 
a rock, forty feet above the level ov the say (sea), down to another rock, the same 
distance ablow it ; an' whin the mare came within five feet ov the lower rock, the 
jockey turned her round wid a common snaffle bridle, an' widout lettin her touch 
it, leaped her back agin ! ! !) 

" Well, Sir, he leaped up on the bridge, over to the opposite battlement, an' to 
my gratist ov consternashin, down again into the river ! I wasn't kilt, for we went 
on, 'till at last we came to the feet ov Cloghleagh Castle, at the bottom of which 
there grows an immensity ov all sorts — thorns, furze, briars, brambles, through 

* Bully. 



66 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

all which, an' a sight more, this villin ov a horse dragged me, 'till my skin an' my 
back was skivered wid 'em, an' the blood runnin out in strames. Having satisfied 
himself there, an' not laving me worth a traneen, the scoundrel takes an' wid one 
I don't know whether it was a fly or a leap, jumps up on the top ov the highest 
chimbley ov the castle. 

" It must surely be a beautiful sight to see him cuttin capers on the top ov the 
castle, wid me on his back, leaping from one chimbley to another, an' so on, 'till 
my heart was almost dead within me wid the fright, At long last he landed on 
the ground, an' shure if I was frightened afore, I was doubly terryfied whin he 
opened his mouth, an' in the most natheral an' humanlike manner, he spoke to me 
as thus, axin me — 

(i ' How do you like yer ridin ? ' 

" ' Why, thin, not by any manner ov means, plaze yer honor,' sis I, thinkin it 
best to be civil, ' but wo'n't you let me off now ? ' 

" ' Och no ! ' sis he ; 'I wouldn't thrate you so ungenteelly ; wait till I take you 
to your journey's end. You're goin to Kilworth for a pen'orth ov tobaccy, an' I'll 
tell you what to do : ask for a naggin of whisky an a pound ov 'baccy, an' as 
soon as you get it I'll be off, so you need not mind payin for it.' 

" ' Very well, Sir,' sis I, ' but for the tinder marcy ov God take me asy ; ' so 
up we wint to Peg Gainy's public, that's just at the cross turnin in from Ballina- 
carriga. Troth, stiff enough I called for a naggin ov the best, an' drank it. ' Now,' 
sis I, ' I'll be afther troublin you for a pound of tobacco.' 

" ' No trouble in life, Sir,' sis she ; but shure an' sartain the very minit I got it 
in the heel ov my fist, I an' my gentleman were on our way to the castle, leaving 
poor Peg whistling for the change. 

" ' How do you like yer ridin now ? ' asked my coppulleen.* 

" ' Very well, Sir ; may be you '11 have the goodness to let me off now? ' 

" ' Yerah ! be asy,' sis he, ' don't be in such a taring hurry away from me, for 
you go back the way you came.' 

" ' Oh ! then God help me,' sis I ; ' I'm done for now, shurely.' 

" I had scarcely said these words, when on a suddint he gave a lep on the top ov 
the tottering castle, in the same way as before, thin from one chimbley to another, 
from that to the brake, where, after rolling about for more nor (than) half an hour, 
till I was quite kilt intirely, he plunged into the river, an' leaped over the bridge 
again, and at long last brought me to the foord, more dead than alive. 

" He then desired me to get off, which, you may be sure, he had not to repeat a 
second time. 

" ' Now, Larry Toomy,' sis he to me, ' I'm your wife's uncle, an' came here, an' 

* Little horse. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 67 

tuck the 'pearance of a horse, to meet you, an' punish you for your sever'ty to her 
about tobaccy. She had something else to mind to-day beside your smoaking ; an' 
if you struck her wid the stool, by this an' that,' sis he, ' there's not a stone in the 
bridge nor castle, where I always live, but I'd have marked wid your blood. Go 
home now, an' think ov this night, and let me hear no more complaints in future, 
for never fear I'll watch you, an' you know your doom.' 

" With that he instantly vanished, an' I returned home. Supper being ready, 
I sat down hungry an' tired, an' small blame to me ; but my wife remarking I did 
not speak, axed me the reason, so I tould her the whole story, went over to the 
dresser, an' swore on a prayer book I'd never put a pipe into my mouth again, 
which I have never done. 

" I sent home the unused pound ov tobacco, an' paid for the whisky : never 
again was cross to my wife." And now, gentle reader, you have the conclusion 
of the enchanted horse of Cloghleagh Castle. 

There were, I have been informed, some invidious persons, probably envious of 
our hero's reputation, who averred, that on the evening in question he was dis- 
covered near the Funcheon, in that glorious state which marks the distinction 
between a beggar and a queen ; and, in consequence, would consider his wonderful 
adventure with the enchanted horse as the result of spiritual imagination. This, 
however, is left to the sagacity of the reader, who, if indulgent, will consider it as 
malice prepense. 

THE HAUNTED HUNTSMAN. A TALE OF THE BLACKWATER SIDE. 

We had a fast run from Dunmahon to Moorpark, twice across the river Funcheon, 
and through the woods of Ballyclough. The hounds rattled the modkereen (fox) 
at such a clipping pace, he had not time to pick up a hen that crossed his path as 
he cantered among the fowl in Shawn Donoghue's farmyard ; and men, horses, 
and dogs had much inclination to say, " Hold, enough," when our gallant fox, after 
a burst of two hours and ten minutes (during which, out of a field of forty-five, 
only five lived to the end), bade us good night, by betaking himself to the deep 
earth just under the old castle in the Earl of Mountcashel's demesne. 

" What became of the fox, Brian ?" asked a youngster who made his debut with 
credit, but could not comprehend why we should part without his wearing the 
brush he so gallantly rode for. I loitered to hear the reply ; for Brian Hegarty, 
alias the " Haunted Huntsman," was a great humourist in his way. His answer is 
quite characteristic. 

" The fox, Master James, is now palliating himself, Sir, in his subterranean 
retrate." 

Leaving the fox in his " subterranean retrate," we moved out of covert of the 



68 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

dark old wood ; and, leading our weary hunters down the steep defile to the wide- 
spread meadows of the Inch, the moon, scattering patches of silver around, pre- 
sented a scene strikingly beautiful. Over our heads towered the tall keep of the 
stately castle of Cloghleagh, flinging its shadow on many a fair rood of ground. 
No emblem of battle streamed in the night wind, but 

" For banner waved some rude wall flower." 

The hill on which the castle is built is thickly planted, and seemed in the haze of 
coming night a forest coeval with the time-worn walls. Many tasteful walks, 
judiciously formed, showed agreeable vistas amid the trees. From the base of the 
wooded hill spread a long level plain, through which the Funcheon flowed, 
groups of noble trees dotting the verdant lawns. We crossed a little bridge span- 
ning the river ; and having ascended the opposite hill, soon reached the hospitable 
walls of Mount Rivers. 

A pleasant party drew their chairs closer round the well-stored board after the 
ladies retired. Mine host is a favourable specimen of a fine Irish gentleman, 
though not of the olden time ; for his polished manners and conversation show 
nothing of the rough coarse habits of our forefathers. We had several sporting 
companions gathered from the field to the banquet, and amongst them our old 
friend, Captain Whackman. 

Wine now gave place to the more genial and congenial beverage yclept whisky 
punch ; and his fourth tumbler acted as the key to unlock the previously closed 
jaws of Captain Whackman. He became as remarkable for his volubility, as he 
had previously been for taciturnity, and rollicking tales of blood and battle, hair- 
breadth 'scrapes, 

" Moving accidents of flood and field," 

came from him in quick succession. 

Some one spoke of the proposed fancy ball at Cork. 

" By Jove, Sir," interposed our fat friend, " Great fun in a fancy," or, as he 
styled it, " a fashy ball." 

" Why," asked some dandy of dragoons, peering at the vulgar monster through an 
eyeglass, " pray were you" laying great emphasis on the words were you, " ever 
at a fancy ball ? " 

" Oh ! by this and that, I was, faith ! " 

" Where, Whackman ? let's have it ? " 

" With a heart and a half boys. Wait till I 'plenish the thimble : hand over the 
grocereis. Oh, that's the real perfume ! " and he sipped his glass with compla- 
cency. " You see, we were out hunting this way ; and sure enough, by the same 
token, I got a fall in the bogs beyant Wathergrasshill that mottled my new coat into 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 69 



a rale piebald ; for when I was dhrawn out, one arm was dark brown, and so was 
one skirt, while the rest was a bright scarlet, only the first day's wear ; such a 
regular half and half you never saw, just like fair grog ; and laughing enough the 
boys had with me when I sat down to dine at Brooke Brasier's. 

" We finished a magnum of port, and a six-bottle cooper of claret, to say no- 
thing of half a dozen tumblers of ould Tommy Walker, and I fell asleep, when I 
got into the jaunting car that was sent to drive me home, for they knew where I was 
to dine, an' I used generally get comfortable there. But Brian Hegarty (your 
hunstman to-day, as honest a boy as ever broke bread) I fancy got a little com- 
fortable too : the night was dark, he said, for he turned his horse's head the wrong 
way, and, by Jove, when I awoke near twelve o'clock, instead of finding myself at 
my own demesne wall, going into Ballyhooly, where should I be but passing Glan- 
mire, and just entering the streets of Cork. 

" ' What place is this, Brian ? ' says I. 

" ' Why, then, what other place but Ballyhooly, Sir,' says he. 

" 'Brian, you omadhaivn*, do you call that the Blackwather ?' says I, pointing 
to the say. 

" < What else,' says he, ' if it isn't seeing double you are.' 

" I rubbed my eyes half in doubt, but I was too well acquainted with the lo- 
calities to have made a mistake. There was Blackrock Castle, and Loch Mahon, 
and Dunkettle, and the City. Brian had come to the same conclusion, and was 
muttering something about ' strange road, sure enough, Master right for once in 
his life,' when a chaise drew up. 

" ' Are you going any where ? ' said a voice familiar to me. 

" ' I am going home,' said I, innocently. 

" ' Home to Gurteen, and your back to it. Well, Whackman, that's a good one,' 
and my friend Ned Roche laughed long and loudly. 

" * Why,' said I, ' my stupid servant made a mistake, but if you'll sup with me 
at Lloyd's, we'll make the best of it.' 

" ' I can't,' he replied, ' for I'm engaged to a place where you'll be heartily wel- 
come, and I'll insure you to have amusement enough.' 

" ' Is it at this hour of night ? ' 

" ' Yes ! I'm going to a ball.' 

" < Where ? ' 

" ' Faith, I don't know the name of the lady, but I do the street — South Mall.' 

" ' Troth, you are very kind, to ask me to go to a house the mistress of which 
you don't know yourself,' said I. 

" * I never stand upon trifles ; you'll be heartily welcome.' 

* Silly person. 



70 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

" ' Stay, there's a little obstacle to my going. I have no clothes, but what's on 
me ; ' an' I up and told him how I was out hunting in my new scarlet coat, and fell 
into the bog under Wathergrasshill, and got my coat piebald. 

" ' Stop,' says he, ' till I have a look at you.' 

" ' Who, in the name of the Saints, is your purty travelling companion, Roche ? ' 
I asked as the door opened, and a great brawny girl, with worsted stockings and 
big brogues*, having a basket of oranges slung over her shoulder, jumped on the 
ground. She dropped me a nice curtesy, crying, * Fine Cheney oranges — Cheney 
oranges,' till the cry might be heard in Blackpool. 

" ' Choke you, you b , you'll bring the watch about us,' I said ; ' can't you 

silence that clatter of a tongue of yours ? ' as she again raised the echoes. 

" ' I think I am not to say bad, Whack, my boy,' said my friend in his natural 
tone, I would not have known him, 

" * Why, bless my soul, Roche, what's the fun of this ? ' 

" l The ball is a fancy ball, and I see you'll do famously,' said he, surveying me. 
* I go as an orange girl, and you can give them a Tally Ho.' 

" ' Here goes,' said I, ' Yoicks Tally ! Tally ! Forward my honeys ! Hark For- 
ward ! ' and Roche in his turn had to cry for silence. 

" l Now we can bespeak beds at Lloyd's,' he said ; ' put up then, and my carriage 
can take us both to the ball.' 

" We drove into town, wet our whistles in some mulled port, and reached the 
South Mall. 

" There was no need to ask the house : the shouts of merriment that burst from 
the crowd before the door, greeting each character, as well as the lights blazing 
from cellar to garret, denoted it. Roche delayed for an instant, to write something 
on a card. He passed through the crowd with acclamation. I was greeted with 
great applause, and ' Three cheers, boys, for Captain Whackman, from Ballyhooly,' 
announced my name in the drawing-room ere the servants could have seen me. I 
found I was better known than I expected. ' How do you do, Captain Whack- 
man ? — How did you leave all friends in Ballyhooly ? ' followed on all sides. Such 
civility I never met ; and 'twas not confined to my own countrymen and women, 
no faith ! but Turkses, and Jewses, and peoples of all nations, came to inquire 
kindly, ' How was Captain Whackman from Ballyhooly ? ' I was considered the 
best character there ; and when I tallied a vixen fox (a pretty little slip of a 
colleen with red hair), and gave chase, for she cut and run like winken, begad! the 
room was bursting with laughter. ' Drag on her and find her, my darlings,' I 
shouted. ' Hark together ! together ! Away, away with her ! ' and breast-high I 
hunted till she gave in, and we danced the fox-hunter's jig till cock crow. So 

* Shoes. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 71 

you see, young man," said he, addressing the dragoon, " I'm more learned than you 
think." 

" So I perceive, indeed/' said the officer ; " but pray how did the characters all 
know you ? " 

" Wisha bad manners to you ; you must worm the little sacret out of me, I see. 
The rogue, Ned Roche, merely wrote on a bit of paper, and stuck it on my back, 
' I'm Captain Whackman from Ballyhooly.' " 

THE HAUNTED HUNTSMAN. A LEGEND OF BLACKWATER SIDE. 

" You mentioned Brian Hegarty as having been your servant, Captain Whack- 
man ; perhaps you can tell me why he is called the Haunted Huntsman." I asked 
this because I was sure something worth hearing was to follow. I will give his 
reply as nearly as I can remember. " One would think 'twas leaky these tumblers 
of yours were," said he, holding up his to show its emptiness. " They hould 
mighty little, but it's all for the best, for then one gets a sup hot, you know," ad- 
dressing mine host. " I ask your pardon," says he, turning to me, — " Do I know 
why Brian Hegarty is called the Haunted Huntsman ? 'Tis I that do ; and 
why not ? he that lived with me, and his generation before him, man and boy, these 
hundred years, and, barring one thing, a better servant boy wasn't to be had, from 
Hill of Howth to Cape Clear, — and that's no stone's throw, I'm thinking. An honest, 
dacent, cute lad he cam to me, and, barring the dhrop, he was perfect ; but, between 
you and me, Sir, when a man gets fond of that, one can't answer for him ; and as 
I must tell the truth, Brian's love for the dhrop made him very irregular in his 
habits, and if I gave him a message in a hurry before breakfast in the morning, I 
was in luck if I had him back to 'tend table at dinner. He was a kind-hearted 
fellow as you'd meet in a month of Sundays ; and as he had acquaintance plenty 
as blackberries, he never wanted a companion in idleness, if he wanted any other 
excuse. The well-known reasons for drinking answered him exactly — 

' A friend — a bottle — being dry — 
The fear of being so by and by, 
Or any other reason why.' 

If he stayed out the livelong day, and night after, as he often did, he never was at 
a loss for an excuse. My heart was often broke with him ; but, though he'd fret 
a saint, I could never part with him. Indeed, I tried once, but he would not go. 
' If you don't know,' said the blackguard, ' when you have a good servant, I know 
when I have a good masther, so here I stick, plase God.' 

" His accomplishments were various. He could drive a coach and four — ride 
a horse from the time the bit was put in his mouth till he became a trained hunter 
— bleed, physic, dress him — train him for a race or steeple-chase — hunt a pack 



72 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



of hounds, as all of ye know, how hounds ought to be hunted ; and I think ye'll be 
inclined to admit, a fairer boy to ride across a country never crossed a horse. He 
leaped the demesne wall of Kilshaine, after all but Frank Denneley sneezed at it ; 
and knew my ways so well, that I could not do without him at all at all. A few 
friends dropped in to take pot-luck with me one day, and I had plenty of spirits, 
but was out of sugar and wine. You know there is no wine to be had in Ballyhooly, 
so I desired Brian to clap a saddle upon Botheen, and canter into Fermoy for half- 
a-dozen of port and some lemons and sugar, and to put plenty of straw in the 
hamper to wrap about the bottles, lest they should be broke. ' Now,' said I, i if 
you make any delay — it is now three o'clock, and the gentlemen will be expecting 
dinner between five and six — by all that's good and bad, I'll break every bone in 
your skin, and make you walk out of my house after ; so you know what's before 
you, if you are not back against five.' 

" < Is it me, Sir, to make 
any delay ? — well, now, 
that bangs Banagher, any 
how. I'll be back in the 
crack of a whip.' He soon 
appeared on the back of 
Botheen, galloping towards 
Fermoy. 

" Five o'clock came, but 
no Brien — six o'clock — 
and Molly Regan, the 
cook, said, 'The mutton 
was biled, and the praters 
would be a mash if they 
warn't taken off the fire.' 

" ' Who's to put the dinner on the table ? ' said I, ' for Brian Hegarty is gone to 
Fermoy.' 

" ' Faix, then, 'twill be the could dinner before he puts it an,' said my comfort- 
ress, ' the lazy lout.' 

" ' Call in Terry Ryan from the garden,' said I. 

" She ran out, but Terry was gone to the mountain for turf, and Molly, the 
cook, had to act as butler. Despite my chagrin, the guests seemed to feel per- 
fectly comfortable. I had some excellent Black water cider Frank Drew sent me 
from Macollip, that all declared they preferred to Ruinart's champagne, and in 
copious libations of grog they seemed to forget there was such a liquid as wine in 
the world. 

" The night was warm, and the jug of hot water sending its curling smoke to 




TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 73 



the roof, like a pillar of cloud, caused a wish to have a taste of the window 
opened. I complied, and my ears were regaled by a voice singing loudly down 
the avenue — 

' Sporting, belleing, dancing, drinking, 
Breaking windows, rattling, sinking, 
Ever raking — never thinking, 

Live the rakes of Mallow. 

' Spending faster than it comes, 
Beating peelers, watch, and duns, 
Duhallow's true-begotten sons, 

Live the rakes of Mallow.' 

" ' Here comes some wine, boys,' said I. ' This is my rascally servant, whom 
I despatched into Fermoy, at three o'clock in the day, for some wine for you, and 
here he comes at three in the morning.' 

" ' I'll bet you five to one without a drop,' said the Neal, ' and that he gives 
such an excuse, you are not angry with him.' 

" ' Done ! ' I answered ; ' the drunken scoundrel never does what I bid him ; and 
I am quite certain he can give no excuse to prevent my being angry with him.' 

" Meanwhile the vocalist turned round the road to the stables ; and as he swung 
to and fro to steady himself, it was quite evident he was not sober. I heard him, 
still supporting his character for melody, returning from the stables — 

' Living short but merry lives, 
Going where the devil drives, 
Keeping ' 

" * I'll keep you no more in my service, Brien Hegarty, you infernal rascal ! ' I 
shouted, as he entered the room. 

" ' Asy, Sir ; don't be angry with me, masther dear ! may whisky be my poison 
if ' 

" ' It will be your destruction, you scoundrel ; leave my sight, you leave my 
service in the morning.' 

" ' Whist, Sir, don't let the gentlemen hear you speaking so foolish.' 

" ' Foolish ! but I am foolish in speaking to a drunken vagabond. I'll listen to 
none of your excuses, pack yourself off. — Stay, where's the wine ? ' I observed he 
brought in his basket. 

" ' Wine ! troth, yes. Oh, millia murther, see what happened through the 
manes of it ? ' and he showed the fragments of a half dozen bottles, broken into a 
thousand pieces. 

" * Now have I not reason to be angry ? ' and I turned triumphantly to O'Neal 
— ' I'll thank you for your five pounds.' 



74 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

" ' Nay,' said he, ' I have won as yet — Brien returned you 'em without a 
drop.' 

" ' But I am angry with him.' 

" ' You have not heard his excuse.' 

" * Excuse,' said Brien, ' that he hasn't ; ' and, turning to me, ' As for your 
honour being angry with me, don't let that distress you. I don't blame your ho- 
nour for being angry with me at all, not in the least ; sure it's quite natural — 
having the quality to dine with you, and no regular man-servant to 'tend table, 
barring Molly the cook. But you see, when you hears me, as his worthy honour 
Doctor O'Neal says, you'll allow it's more to be pitied than blamed I am.' 

" ' Go on,' said I, impatiently. 

" ' Just what I said myself to Botheen, after leaving Fermoy ; I did not take 
above half an hour from the time I got the commands to enter the town, and that 
was the curious town. All our sogers — red coats here, and blue coats there — 
bristling with bayonets, guns, and swords — bands rattling, and bugles playing — 
Captain O'Flanagan, wid Ginerals an' Corporals all round, waiting his orders — 
'twould delight your sowl to be listening to the music. — 'Tis a pity myself arn't a 
soger. I lost no time, you may be sure, in going to the grocer's, and packing my 
bottles with plenty of hay, as your honer tould me, and left the place. Go on, 
Botheen, said I, shaking the switch ; and we got on famously, till we reached 
Glenabo. As we got on the hill, which is skirted by the woods on both sides of 
the road, the place looked very lonesome. I stopped for an instant, as the moon 
was rising, and beheld Castle Hyde forenent me at the other side of the river, 
looking very grand, with the tall black woods behind it, and far away the blue 
mountains of the Gualty's, over all, crowning the sight. Behind me was Cairn 
Thierna, rising like a great giant in the sky, and I saw the heaps of stones on the 
top, looking like human craturs. I thought of the quare story they tell about the 
place ; how the lord's son was to be drownded, and how the father was building the 
castle for him atop of the hill, and how he tuk him to see it one day, and the poor 
gossoon * went to look into the big tub, where they wet the lime for mortar, and 
saw, as he thought, another little boy in the tub, and climbed in to play with him, 
and got drownded ; and how the stones quarried for the castle remain on the top 
of the hill to this day. These thoughts gave me the lowness, so I stopt for a 
minute at Paddy Foley's shibeen house, to take a darby, and met Mick Hegarty, 
my first cousin's nephew — a good boy. 'Twas getting darkish as I rode along, 
and I must have missed the boughereen\ somehoAv, for I beheld the tall castle of 
Ballyhooly rising from the rock over the Blackwater, and was just turning back, 
when the most extraordinary thing happened that ever was. I often heard tell of 



Small boy. f Little road. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 75 

such, but gave no credit to it — I thought it was all sharaos, mere old woman's 
talk, but sure enough, the headless horseman of Glenabo was close by my side. 
Oh, Sirs ! in pity's sake reach me your hand, for I'm wake as wather at the remim- 
brance of it.' (I mixed him a drop of hot.) * Your health, gentlemen. The horse 
the headless man was riding was black as the raven's wing, but the main and tail 
milk white — a tall strong horse, and went like the wind. The rider appeared a 
stout built man, and sat his horse with a sure seat, much like your honour, and 
never shook in his place, though he had no stirrups. Poor Botheen trembled like 
one in the ague, and snorted loudly. We trotted fast back, but the unnatural man 
and horse kept by our side. At last, wishing to see how he would reply, I said, 
" Why, thin, it must be distressing to your honer to ride without stirrups." 

" ' " True for you, Brien Hegarty," was the reply from his coat pocket ; and oh ! 
that I should live to see the sight, his ugly head grinned from the pocket hole. 
" ' That's a snug horse you ride, Sir,' said I. 

" ' " He has carried me well many a long day and night," replied the head in the 
pocket hole. 

" ' May be he was a hunter in his day,' I asked inquiringly. 
" s " As good as ever was lapped in leather," said the headless. 
" ' Can he go the pace now ? ' I inquired. 

" ' "Faster than it would be convenient for you to keep up with, my joker," 
replied he. 

" * My blood was up, Sir, at these words : I considered the credit of the family 
at stake, to say nothing of Botheen. "If my master was to the fore," said I, "you'd 
see whether I could keep up to you or not." 

a i u Why, and what could your master do, my lad ? " asked he. 
" ' He could give me permission to gallop a mile across the country with you, 
and see which was best ; but of course I would not take on me to run the chance 
of injuring his horse, not to say delaying his wine for dinner, and quality to dine 
with him — I'm late enough as it is, so good-by to you.' 

" ' " Not so fast, Brien Hegarty," said the headless horseman, in a commanding 
tone. " I'm master here, and do you gallop a mile with me, and I'll save you 
harmless ; for if your master dares lay a wet finger on you, when you go back to 
Gurteen, I'll bring him to the very fence where I broke my own neck, when I was 
huntsman to the first Duhallow hunt, in the time of George the First that was 
king, God be merciful to him I pray, and he shall share my fate." 

" ' God forbid, thought I to myself, but as I'm in for it this way or that way, I 
don't mind letting Botheen take a few fences ; the hunting season is nigh, and 'twill 
harden the mate on his carcass for the master.' 

" ' " Away," says Headless, and away we went over the boughereen, in a fly, 
through the big inches, over ditch and wall, as if both horses had wings. A running 



76 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

brook was in front, Botheen flew over it like a bird. Headless brought his horse 
to the brink, but he turned tail, he refused to jump it. Beat — fairly beat, 
I exclaimed.' 

a t it B r i en Hegarty," said Headless, " you have won, I confess, and have a bold 
seat, and a sure hand. 'Tis over a hundred years since I broke my neck, in Castle 
Hyde deer park, where I was huntsman to the Duhallow hounds, and ever since I 
have been riding the road to get a man to ride a mile with me, and never succeeded 
till this night. You have dissolved the spell that kept me on the weary road, and 
deserve all the good I can give you. Fear no danger from man or beast. Ride 
with the tail-hound, never flinch from ditch, wall, or timber ; and as you stood to 
me, I'm the man that will stand to you." 

" ' But the master,' said I, ' he'll be my death — it's now very late, I'm 
thinking.' 

" ' " Tut, you fool !" says he ; " 'tis the master will be proud of you. Haven't you 
won a steeple-chase to-night such as no mortal ever rode before. Give him my 
compliments," said he, " with this note, and if he gives you a cross look after that, 
I'll scarify him." ' 

" A shout of triumph broke from O'Neal. 

" ' Well, I forgive you, rather than incur the headless man's anger,' I said, i so 
go to bed now,' and making a bow, he disappeared. ' But what's this ? ' — and I 
read the following from my grocer : — 

" ' Captain Whackman, 
" < Sir, 
" ' Your messenger reached this at eight o'clock, so drunk, that I placed 
some empty bottles in the basket to pacify him, or I could not get rid of him. I 
was not able to procure a messenger at that hour, or should send the wine per 
order, which hope you will excuse. I shall have it sent early to-morrow. 

" ' Your obedient servant, 

" « T. Rice.' 

" ' Now,' said I, ' is he not a precious rascal ? ' 

" ' A d d clever fellow at an excuse,' roared all. 

" * Who has won the bet ? ' asked O'Neal. 

" ' Have I not reason to be angry with him,' said I. 

" ' Why, you have just forgiven him.' 

" ' He brought no wine,' said O'Neal. 

" ' I think,' said Campion, who dined with us, ' it's better both be off. No 
doubt he did not bring a drop ; but then, Whackman had fair reason to be angry, 
whatever pleasure we may feel, and in recollection of the capital excuse the fellow 
made out, I propose we drink, Repose to the shade of the Haunted Huntsman.' 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



77 



" The toast was drunk with all the honours, and ever since Brien goes by the 
name of the Haunted Huntsman." 

Next to Mount Rivers, on the north bank, is Rockview, the residence of the Rev. 
James Mockler ; a gentleman to whom antiquarians are much indebted for his 
zeal in collecting our national curiosities, and who has a choice collection of Irish 
works. I gladly take this opportunity of making my best acknowledgments for 
the readiness with which he rendered me all the assistance I sought while compil- 
ing this work. There is in his domain an interesting ruin, finely situated on a 




rock near the river. This is the castle of Lisclash, and was built by the Condons. 
Near it is a rath or fort, in Irish Lis* Here the victorious Irish encamped after 
the battle just mentioned ; and the following extract from the Earl of Castlehaven's 
Memoirs, with which the Rev. Mr. Mockler furnished me, shows it was again 
visited by troops two years later. 

" April, 1645. — I followed slowly (from Mitchelstown), and coming to the Black- 
water, near the ford of Fermoy, drew my foot and cannon into an old Danish fort, 
Ireland being full of them ; and having stayed there a good while, and hearing 
no news of my horse, I began to be uneasy. 



* The Lisclash estate was granted by patent, in the 14th of Charles L, to Henry Headley, 
and it has ever since remained in the possession of his descendants. The patent included the 
lands of Downing and Ballyvoluck on the Funcheon. 



78 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



* * Finding by the track that my horse had passed the ford, 

and taken their way towards Castle Lyons, I followed. Being come near the top 
of the hill above the ford, I left those few I had with me drawn up, and, with 
some officers, went myself to a height to discover. There I saw all the enemy 
formed in a great plain with a scrub of wood before them, and my horse in great 
haste marching through to charge, having with them 100 commanded foot. But 
the enemy, seeing the squadrons broken as they came on the plain, gave them no 
time to form, but charged and defeated them. * Hence I marched to 

Mallow." This is called by Smith, the Battle of Castle Lyons. 

A ruin now attracts attention on the south bank — Carrig-a-brick Castle — 
another of the strongholds of the Condons. The well-cultivated land is here 







farmed by Dr. Roche of Fermoy. 
Near it Mill Bank, D. Reid, Esq. 
of John Allen, Esq. 



Opposite is Rathealy, Mrs. Lucas's house. 
Close to Fermoy is Monabeg, the pretty seat 



FERMOY AND ITS ENVIRONS. 

Fermoy, a market and post town, in the barony of Condons and Clangibbons, is 
beautifully situated on the river, lying chiefly in a valley surrounded by hills, 
between which the river glides. It bears the same name as an extensive barony 
in the county of Cork, which, in former times, was denominated Glean na Mkain, 
or Magh na Feine, i. e. the sacred plain, or plain of the learned. About the year 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 79 



254, Fiach Muillethan, king of Munster, bestowed the greater part of this country 
on the Druid, Mogruith, from whom it obtained the name of Dal-Mogruith. The 
druid, on coming into possession of this country, converted it into a kind of sanc- 
tuary, and on the high land which bounds it erected a number of altars and 
places of worship, some of which yet remain, hence called Magh Feine, or the 
sacred plain. The inhabitant was called Fier Magh Feine, or the man of the 
sacred plain, or Fier Magh, whence Fermoy.* The next account connects this 
place with religion in a purer form. A Cistertian abbey, called " Our Lady 
de Castro Dei," was founded here, in 1270, according to an Irish MS., though 
Archall, in his Monasticon Hibernicum, p. 69., mentions the prior in 1226. The 
founder was Sir Richard de Rupella, who was Lord Justice of Ireland in 1261. 
The monks were brought hither from Suir Abbey, in the county of Tipperary, and 
afterwards they received an accession of members from Furness Abbey in Lanca- 
shire. 

In 1591, a grant was made by Queen Elizabeth to Sir Richard Grenville, Knt., 
and his heirs, of this monastery, and the lands appurtenant, containing by estimate 
550 acres, at the rent of 15/. 185. Ad. Irish money. These lands were afterwards 
assigned by the Lord Treasurer of England to Sir George Harvey, for the use of 
the first Earl of Cork, who purchased them and several lands in Fermoy from Sir 
Bernard Grenville. A large stone bridge was built over the river here, with 
thirteen arches, anno 1689, and cost 7500/. 

In the struggle to keep James II. on the throne, this place became the scene of 
a conflict. In January, 1691, the frish, by the arrival of Tyrconnel, Nugha, Rice, 
and others from France, having received fresh supplies of arms and other neces- 
saries, were encouraged (being straitened in their quarters) to try their fortune by 
the enlargement of their frontiers. Their main design was upon Fermoy and 
Ballymore ; the first, because of its stone bridge on the Blackwater, was esteemed 
a very considerable pass. The fortifications were slight, and the garrison not 
numerous ; their strength consisted chiefly of two field pieces, which gave them 
more reputation than force : this place was attacked by Brigadier Carroll and 
1500 of the enemy ; but the Danes, who had the guard of it, defended it very well, 
and Colonel Donop, with fifty of his horse an<J thirty militia, by the common 
stratagem of two trumpeters sounding a march, as if fresh recruits were advanc- 
ing, frightened the Irish into a flight, and they were so briskly pursued to 
Careigoncady-ford, that they lost near eighty men in this action.f 

For the next hundred years no incident occurred to require or suggest remark. 
Though letters patent had been obtained granting fairs and markets, Fermoy 
boasted no greater extent than a small village, all on the south side of the bridge, 

* Seward's Top. Hib. Fermoy. f Smith's Cork, vol. ii. p. 213. 



80 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

originating the remark, " All on one side, like Fermoy." Its houses consisted of a 
carriers' inn and a few cabins, but some good country seats were in the neighbour- 
hood. Mount Glissan, residence of my grandfather, William Glissan, Esq., now 
called Bellevue ; Straw Hall, seat of Joseph Curry, Esq. ; Bettyville, Richard 
Nason, Esq., and many others. Then Kilworth was a considerable town. It lies 
two miles north of Fermoy, and its neighbouring mountains were the haunt of the 
celebrated Brennan and his gang of robbers. Brennan was an outlaw of the Rob 
Roy school, and most popular ; he robbed the rich and gave to the poor. His 
depredations had always something of a chivalrous cast, and no blood sullied his 
exploits. Once he was near being captured by two officers, who sallied forth in 
quest of him. They came up to him on the mountain, and knew him by the 
description they received ; he in vain tried to persuade them " That a poor labour- 
ing boy like him could not be the*bould Brennan," but they insisted on his accom- 
panying him. Passing a shebeen house they halted for rest and refreshment ; 
the captive begged to have the indulgence of his pipe, which was granted ; he 
reached the dhudeen to the bare-legged girl who attended as barmaid, and nodding 
significantly bade her " Put fire in that." She understood the hint, and presently 
returned with his blunderbuss concealed beneath her apron, which she managed 
to hand him under the table. " Now, gentlemen," shouted the freebooter, covering 
his captors with the formidable weapon as he rose, " I am the bould Brennan." 
The tables were completely turned ; the captors became captives, yielded their 
money and arms, and were suffered to return to their quarters quite crest-fallen. 
Brennan was hanged at Clonmell and the gang broken up. This town is still very 
extensive ; a post town, and has a good hotel. It gives the title of Viscount to 
the eldest son of the Earl of Mountcashel, the proprietor. The eminent barrister, 
Right Hon. D. R. Pigot, M. P. for Clonmell, was born in this town, also Mr. B. 
Simmons, a distinguished poetic writer in Blackwood's Magazine. 

In 1797, government wishing to form a military station in a central part of 
the south of Ireland, selected Fermoy as most desirable for that purpose. It is in 
the midst of a fertile country, within a day's march from Cork in case of emergency, 
though usually divided into two by the troops. Available as a convenient place 
for the assembling troops destined for or returning from foreign service, and 
directly on the route between Cork and Dublin ; overtures being made to John 
Anderson, Esq., who had lately become the proprietor, by virtue of his purchasing 
four sixths of the manor of the estate of the forwards, that intelligent gentleman 
at once foresaw the numerous advantages to be derived from such a measure, and 
readily entering into the desired project, made free grants of sites for the buildings, 
and erected temporary barracks on the south side of the river. The east barracks 
were built in 1806, and in 1809 the west barracks. The former, the more exten- 
sive of the two, occupy three sides of a quadrangle, 800 feet long and 700 wide, 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



with barracks in the rear for cavalry; the whole affording accommodation to 112 
officers, and 1478 non-commissioned officers and privates of infantry, and to 24 
officers and 120 non-commissioned officers and privates of cavalry, with stabling, 
&c. The west barracks are much less extensive. In 1840, half of this range of 
building was sold by government to the Poor Law Commissioners, and now forms 
the workhouse of the Fermoy Union. It affords ample accommodation to the 
paupers of the district, and, from its elevated position, is remarkably healthy. The 
want of ground to employ the inmates is a great evil. 

Mr. Anderson having made this the great depot for troops, caused the bridge 
already mentioned to be widened, and had the town built. It consists of a spacious 




square facing the bridge, with broad streets running parallel to the river, connected 
by shorter ones intersecting them at right angles. Some good houses, chiefly 
occupied by professional gentlemen, are at the north side of the bridge, in a hand- 
some row called St. James's Place. Two tasteful mansions in the Elizabethan 
style have lately been added by Mr. Hendley, and are ready for tenants. Near 
this is the church, erected at a cost of 7000/. It is not remarkable for any 
architectural beauty, and has lost much of its attractive appearance by the taking 
down of a light and taper spire, which formerly surmounted the square tower, now 
looking bare and unfinished. It is very neat inside, and has a well-toned organ. 



82 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



A street^ down the side of the hill on which the barracks are built, called Barrack 
Hill, is the limit of the town on the north. The southern hill affords sites to the 
Roman Catholic chapel, a spacious structure of cruciform shape. This was erected 
by subscription, the late Mr. Anderson giving a site rent free and 500/. Its 

present Gothic mould, and the entire transept with new galleries, in fact entirely 
new modelling the chapel, is due to the respected parish priest, the Rev. T. Mur- 
phy, who has laboured to make this a perfect chef-d'oeuvre in this province. The 
ceiling is enriched with stuccoed centre pieces, and is richly groined with Gothic 
mouldings, terminating in the capitals oi' tall white pillars. Over the altar is a 
beautiful window, and the fretted work of the wall reflects credit on Mr. Church, 
by whom it was executed : opposite is the organ loft. There is a tasteful 
monument to the late venerable parish priest, Rev. Edward Barry. The hand- 
some house built by the parish priest, called Laurel Hill, is destined by that 
reverend gentleman as the future convent for the Sisters of Mercy, and is to be 
occupied by the nuns of that benevolent order when Miss Dennehy fulfils her 
noviciate to act as foundress. Close by is the convent of nuns of the Presentation 
Order, established about live years : it is a spacious building, and consists of a 
centre house, connected by corridors with two uniform wings, one of which is the 
chapel of the convent ; the other contains two large school-rooms for girls, 
educated by the ladies of the Order. This building was erected at an expense of 
about 2500/., of which 1 5001. was presented by Miss Goold, a lady who devoted 
a large fortune to religious objects, the remainder subscribed by the inhabitants, 
several Protestants being among the contributors. Near this is Richmond Lodge, 
the tasteful residence of II. Smyth, Esq. ; also Fermoy School, commonly called 
the College, conducted by Mr. Brown, for the education of young gentlemen. 
This building occupies two sides of a square, contains an excellent school room, 
sitting room, dormitory, &c ; also a gymnasium and ball court, with eleven acres of 
playground. The fine play ground, good air, and, above all. excellent instruction, 
render this a desirable school for boarders. There is a most admirable day-school 
in the town, conducted by an eminent master, Mr. Kelly. Fermoy contains a good 
court-house, where the magistrates preside at petty sessions once a fortnight, and 
the excellent assistant-barrister for the east riding of the county of Cork, H. Baldwin, 
Esq., Q. C., sits here twice each year. There is a large National School here for 
400 children. The other religious houses are, a meeting-house for Methodists and 
a Presbyterian church. Quite close to the bridge is Fermoy House, which was 
once occupied by Mr. Anderson : it is a handsome mansion, beautifully situated 
in a lawn sloping gently to the river, and is now the residence of the Rev. M. A. 
Collis. 

The Rev. Maurice Atkin Collis, of Fermoy House, is the eldest surviving son of 
William Cooke Collis, Esq., J. P., of Castle Cooke, county of Cork, and Elizabeth 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 83 

Geraldine, daughter of Maurice Uniacke Atkin, Esq., of Leadington, in the same 
county, lieutenant-colonel of the North Cork Militia. The Rev. M. A. Collis mar- 
ried in June, 1839, Aune, eldest daughter of the Rev. John Talbot Crosbie, secoud 
son of William Talbot Crosbie, Esq., of Ardfert Abbey, and the Lady Anne, 
eldest daughter of William, first Earl of Glandore. 

This family trace their descent from Thomas Cooke, of the city of London, a 
wealthy merchant, who, about the year 1670, purchased large tracts of land in 
L*eland, and built a strong tower over the river Ariglen, called Castle Cooke, 
near which the family mansion is situate. His grandson, Thomas Cooke, left 
three daughters — Elizabeth, married to Sir Thomas Blackball, and died without 
leaving issue ; Martha, who married her cousin, William Collis ; and Anne. 
Thomas was succeeded by his brother Zachary, who dying unmarried, was suc- 
ceeded by his niece Martha, who married the Rev. William Collis, and had issue 
the Rev. Zachary Cooke Collis, Archdeacon of Cloyne, who inherited the Castle 
Cooke estate in right of his mother, and assumed the additional surname and arms 
of Cooke. He married, in 1782, Jane, daughter of Charles Leslie, Esq., M. D., 
of the city of Cork, and had issue, William Cooke Collis, Esq., J. P., the present 
possessor of Castle Cooke ; Anne Leslie, married to Thomas Perrott, Esq., J. P., of 
Upland, Fermoy ; Mary, married to David Barry, Esq., M.D., both deceased; Sarah 
Hyde, married to John Perrott, Esq., of Limerick. The eldest son of William 
Cooke Collis, Esq., and who bore the same name, was married to Miss Hyde, of 
Castle Hyde, and on his death without male issue, the next brother is heir apparent 
to the estate. 

There are a number of pretty seats in the environs. Mill Bank, D. Reid, Esq. ; 
Monabeg, J. Allin, Esq. ; Uplands, T. Perrott, Esq., J. P. ; Mount Rivers, 
M. Hendley, Esq., J. P. ; Rathealy, Mrs. Lucas ; Rockview, Rev. James Mockler ; 
Riverview, Captain Croker ; Mountford Lodge, Captain Collis ; Grange Hill, 
William Forward Austen, Esq., J. P. ; Bettyville, William Corban, Esq. ; Dunta- 
heen, Thomas Green, Esq. ; Bellevue, Thomas Dennehy, Esq., J. P. ; Curraghmore, 
Dan. Dennehy, Esq. ; Brooklodge, Francis Dennehy, Esq. In the town are two 
excellent hotels : Mr. Brown's, in the square, where the Fermoy gentlemen have 
a reading-room, well supplied with English and Irish papers — it also boasts a bil- 
liard-table ; the second, on the quay, kept by Mr. Robinson, has a charming look- 
out upon the river. There are also comfortable inns and good lodgings. 

The proprietor of the town is Sir Robert Abercromby, Bart., who, though a 
resident in his native land, Scotland, has ever evinced a warm interest in the 
prosperity of this country, and is always ready to advance the welfare of his tenan- 
try. He is fortunate in having as agent a gentleman of great respectability, who 
possesses considerable property in the town and neighbourhood, Matthias Hendley, 
of Mount Rivers, Esq., J. P. 



84 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

Sir Robert Abercroniby, Bart., of Birkenbog, Banffshire, is chief of his clan, 
which, anterior to the 17th century, devolved upon another branch, who derived the 
name from a territory in Fifeshire, upon the extinction of which the chieftancy 
came to the house whereof the present baronet is the head. Sir Alexander Aber- 
cromby, the first baronet, created in 1637, took so active a part against the House 
of Stuart in the wars of the time, that he is styled by an historian " a main Cove- 
nanter ;" and having taken the field against Charles at the battle of Auldearn, 
caused the spirit of retaliation to arise in the breast of Montrose, who never rested 
until he had quartered himself and his troops at Birkenbog. The present is the 
fifth baronet. It is, perhaps, a curious coincidence, that Fermoy should belong to 
natives of Scotland ; but I am assured, by the experience of the benefits for which 
it is already so much indebted to that country, it will suffer nothing from having 
as its proprietor the worthy baronet now its owner, who is as ready to promote 
the interests of the inhabitants as any native of Ireland could be. 

About three miles south, on the Cork road, is the town of Rathcormac. The 
handsome Elizabethan mansion of Lord Riversdale, and the exquisitely laid out 
ground of his demesne Lisnegar, are worthy a visit. On the south bank of the 
river Bride, crossed by a fine bridge, is Kilshanick, one of the princely seats of 
Edmund Roche, Esq., father of Edmund Burke Roche, Esq., M.P. for the county 
of Cork : it is a spacious mansion of noble proportions, said to have been built 
upon a plan of Inigo Jones : it formerly belonged to A. Devonsher, Esq. Near 
Watergrasshill, celebrated from the writings of the Rev. Francis Mahony, entitled 
the Prout Papers (Rev. Mr. Prout had been parish priest of Watergrasshill), is a 
good house and lawn, Mitchellsfort, seat of Brazier Mitchell, Esq. To the east 
of Rathcormac is Castle Lyons, a small town ; near this are extensive walls of 
Lord Barrymore's house, which was destroyed by an accidental fire : built in the 
Elizabethan style, they are mighty even in ruins. Kilcor, the elevated castle of 
Cornelius O'Brien, Esq., is seated on a hill south of the town ; and at some distance 
is Ballyvolane, the residence of Jasper Pyne, Esq. Close to the banks of the Bride, 
spanned by a high narrow bridge, is Conna, with its strong tower, a castle of the 
Desmonds ; and near Knockmourne is Moidghialladh, where is pointed out the 
" Church of the Vow," whence Moygeely is derived. The ruins here are very 
extensive. This was the chief seat of Fitzgerald, Earl of Desmond, "whose vast 
estates," Dr. Curry remarks, " was a strong inducement to the chief governor of Ire- 
land to make or proclaim him a rebel, their prey being insured to them in either case 
by his forfeiture." The occasion of building the church is as follows : — Thomas, 
the great Earl of Desmond, had a favourite steward, who often took great liberties 
with his lord, and by his permission tyrannised over his tenants equally with himself. 
This steward, unknown to the Earl, invited, in his name, a large party of the 
chiefs of Munster with their retainers to spend a month in the castle. They 



: 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



85 



accepted, and flocked in in crowds, to the great surprise of Desmond, who was 
desperately annoyed when he found his store of provisions nearly exhausted. At 
last, when informed his provisions could not possibly furnish the next day's dinner, 
he invited all Ins guests to a great hunting expedition, and gave orders to have the 
castle burned, as if by accident, in their absence, in order to save his credit. He 
expected from each rising ground to see the flames. About dinner-time up came 
the steward, who had been absent for some days, to inform his lord he had arrived 
in time to save the castle, by bringing a large prey of corn and cattle : the news 
so rejoiced the earl he vowed to build a church near the castle. This chieftain is 
said to keep state under the waters of Lough Gurr, near Kilmallock, and once 
every seven years rides on the lake fully armed and accoutred. 

About eight miles north of Fermoy is Mitchelstown. The Earl of Kingston 
has a magnificent castle here, in the Gothic style, which is well worth seeing, and 
the hospitable lord of the castle always receives strangers with a hearty welcome. 
On his extensive estates, about eight miles further, nearly midway between -Mitchels- 
town and Cahir, are vast subterranean caverns with beautiful stalactites. The 
best account yet given of these caves is in Hall's " Ireland," and we extract it for 
the benefit of tourists : — 

" The hill in which the cave exists rises in nearly the centre of a valley, which 




separates the Galtee and Knockmeledown chains of mountains — the former 
constituting its northern, the latter its southern boundary. Mr. Nichol, the 



86 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



accomplished artist, to whose graceful and accurate pencil we are so largely 
indebted, visited the cave within little more than a year after its discovery. He 
states that the man by whom it was found obtained the assistance of two boys, 
named Shelly, to explore it. After proceeding a considerable distance with great 
caution, they at length arrived at the brink of a perpendicular precipice, which 
appeared to put a stop altogether to their further progress. Their anxiety and 
determination, however, to explore this subterranean wonder, increased with the 
difficulty of attaining it ; and after various conjectures, as to how they ought to 
proceed, they at length procured a burning turf, tied to a string, which they 
dropped to the lower part of the precipice, measuring about sixteen feet. After- 
wards, lowering each other down by means of ropes, they proceeded with lighted 
candles along the narrow and rocky passage — the grandeur and novelty of the 
place, together with its apparent endless extent, massive columns and pyramids of 
spar, stalactites, &c, succeeding each other in endless variety, and the desire of 
discovery, attracted them onwards, till their lights were nearly burnt out. It was 
then the danger of attempting a return in the dark struck them : they hastened 
back, but long before they arrived at the cavern's mouth, the lights had expired, 
and they sat down in despair. They remained in this alarming situation until 
midnight. At length the father of the boys and some other friends came in search 
of them, and found them in the middle cave. 

" Our first object was to engage the assistance of guides. We considered it 
desirable to procure several, in order that by distributing them in various parts of 
the caverns with lights, we might form a correct idea of their magnitude and 
magnificence. They took with them a large supply of candles and a box of 
lucifers, to guard against the danger of some sudden gust of wind leaving us in 
darkness. The use of torches is prohibited by the owner of the land ; and very 
properly so, for we had ample proof of the injury they had already done in 
defacing the beauty of many crystallised roofs. A narrow passage, gradually 
sloping, about four feet in height and between thirty and forty in length, ter- 
minates in an almost vertical precipice, about fifteen feet deep, which is descended 
by a ladder. For a considerable space (nearly 250 feet), afterwards, the visitor 
goes through a dull and unpromising * lane ' of grey limestone ; the guides push 
a little forward, and so arrange themselves that a sudden turn exhibits, in an 
instant, one of the most splendid of the caves in all its beauty and grandeur. 

" This is the ' lower middle cave ; ' but wonderful though it is, it is surpassed 
by the ' upper middle cave,' at which the visitor arrives through a passage vary- 
ing in height from five to ten, and in breadth from seven to fourteen feet, and 
sixty feet in length. ' The horizontal section of this natural excavation,' says 
Dr. Apjohn, 'may, neglecting its irregularities, be considered as a semi-ellipse, 
the axes of which are respectively 180 and 80 feet, the major pointing directly 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



87 



east and west. A vertical view or section, corresponding to the line connecting 
the northern extremity of the minor and eastern extremity of the major axis, 
shows the roof nearly horizontal, and raised twenty feet above the floor.' This 
is the most remarkable part of the entire cavern, for the magnitude, beauty, and 
varied and fantastic appearances of its sparry productions. Immediately upon 
entering the cave, on the right hand, and attached to the wall, is found the organ 
— a huge calcareous growth, which is conceived to bear some resemblance in 
shape to the musical instrument from which its name is borrowed. Nine great 
pillars of carbonate of lime occur in this same compartment, rising from the floor 
to the ceiling ; of these the lower third is usually of great diameter, and very 
irregular in form, while the remaining, or upper portion, usually exhibits the 
shape of an inverted cone, the base of which is in the ceiling, while the vertex is 
in connexion with the lower portion of the pillar. In some instances the upper 
cone has not come in contact with 
the stalagmite below, though, 
should the calcareous deposition 
proceed as heretofore, there can 
be no doubt that such a junc- 
tion will be finally achieved. 
The most remarkable pillars in 
this cave are those known among 
the guides under the names 
of 'Drum' and 'Pyramid,' the 
former of which occurs fifteen 
feet south of the organ ; the 
latter at the eastern end of the 
chamber. The ' curtains,' of 
which we give a good example, are 
sometimes so transparent, that the 
hand may be seen through them. 
Some of the edges are of great 
extent and thinness, and when 
struck, gently vibrate so as to 
produce an agreeable sound. The 
pyramid, a pillar fourteen feet in 
height, rests upon a base of great 

dimensions, and its shaft is distinguished by the circumstance of its tapering 
upwards towards the ceiling. The other pillars are of inferior size, but 
some of them possess a symmetry and beauty superior to those just de- 
scribed. In addition to the pillars, stalactites and stalagmites every where 




88 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

abound ; the former depending from the roof, the latter springing from the floor 
of the cavern. 

" Soon after leaving this cave we were summoned by the guides to descend ' the 
chimney' — a work of some danger; for it is barely wide enough to allow a 
passage; its sides have very few projections upon which to place the feet; it 
descends to the depth of at least thirty yards, and a slip would be inevitably fatal. 
A guide, however, goes before the visitor, directing his ' steps,' and frequently 
giving the foot a resting-place upon his shoulder. At the bottom of the chimney 
is another cave, nearly equal in extent and grandeur to the one we have described; 
and from this several galleries branch leading to objects only a degree less won- 
derful. These are new discoveries, to which additions are continually made, and 
consist of a number of minor caves, from which no access has as yet been ob- 
tained ; although it is more than likely that the removal of partition ' walls ' of 
limestone would exhibit each as but the part of a whole, and continue the line of 
caves in one uninterrupted succession. Our desire was to proceed as far as 
possible, and our guides, gratified by our ardour, rather than checked by the 
additional labour to which they were subjected, proceeded, after allowing us brief 
breathing-time, to usher us through a burrow, so narrow that we had actually to 
twist ourselves along it, after the fashion in which the screw makes its way into a 
cork. The task required physical strength, and no inconsiderable nerve ; for the 
passage extended at least one hundred yards, the greater portion of which was 
necessarily traversed by crawling through a space, barely two feet square, some- 
times so reduced as to render indispensable the kind of 'twist' we have referred 
to, and repeatedly suggesting the painful sensation that a fall of two or three 
inches, in any of the rocks above or around us, would enclose us prisoners beyond 
the possibility of rescue. Yet when we had reached the utmost limits to which 
the researches of the guides had yet attained, the reader will guess our astonish- 
ment when we found pencilled on one of the white curtains at the extremity the 
names of two ladies, who, a few days previously, had accomplished the whole of 
the difficult and dangerous task we have been describing. The course we had 
taken — burrow, caves, chimney, and all — we had to re-traverse; and upon our 
re-introduction to the daylight, we found we had been five hours under ground ; 
as we were walking or creeping during four fifths of the time, we estimate that 
we must have paced, on our progress and return, at least eight miles. Some idea 
of the number and extent of the caves may be formed from the fact that 
Mr. Nichol, during the ' ten hours ' he employed in exploring them, did not meet 
a single person, although, as he was afterwards informed, there were forty visitors 
under ground examining them at the same time. The measurements of some of 
the caves were taken by Dr. Apjohn. ' The second outlet of the upper end of 
the lower middle cave expands in a N.N.W. direction, into a cavity of an 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 89 



elliptical shape, ninety feet in length and forty -five in breadth, its S.S.E. half 
being divided into two by a wall of limestone, forty-five feet in length and about 
fifteen in breadth.' " " The Garrett cave extends 255 feet in an easterly direction, 
with a sweep to the south ; its breadth at the commencement being fifteen, and 
augmenting gradually until, at its widest part, it becomes fifty-five feet." " The 
grand Kingston gallery is the most remarkable compartment of the entire ex- 
cavation. It is a perfectly straight hall, 175 feet in length and seven in breadth, 
with a direction about one point to the west of north. The arching of this gallery 
is in the Gothic style, and its walls are every where glazed with spar, in some 
places red, in others mottled, but nowhere of a perfectly white colour." " The 
passage, called the Sand cave, from the quantity of this material which covers its 
floor, is, for two thirds of its length, twelve, and for the remainder three feet 
wide : it is perfectly parallel to, and of the same length with, the Kingston gallery, 
but placed at a somewhat lower level." 

Our space is too limited to render justice to a natural wonder perhaps unsur- 
passed in the world ; for such it is pronounced to be by persons who have examined 
the leading marvels of the four quarters of the globe. We must excite the im- 
agination of the reader, to give effect to our matter-of-fact description ; for the 
pen and the pencil will equally fail to convey a notion of the grandeur and beauty 
of these caves — viewed either in parts or as a whole. The stalactites and sta- 
lagmites assume every conceivable shape ; shining with the brilliancy of huge 
diamonds as the small light of a candle is thrown upon them. The " curtains " 
that fall from the roofs (of which a good example has been copied by Mr. Nichol) 
are sometimes so transparent, that the form of a hand may be seen through them ; 
and though of immense size, so delicate is their construction, that they actually 
vibrate to the touch. They hang in folds, as gracefully as if the hand of skill and 
taste had arranged their draperies. Frequently, masses of petrifactions, heaped 
one above another, alternate in layers of pure white, and -of a yellow like that of 
the liquid honey ; while, affording the advantage of contrast, the rock in the back- 
ground retains its original rugged shape and dismal hue. Pools of limpid water, 
here and there, cover miniature hillocks of crystals — so minute and sparkling as 
to seem congregated diamonds. Let the reader fancy himself in the midst of a 
cavern, larger than any building hitherto constructed by art — his guides have 
stationed themselves at the various points where effects can be best produced ; 
one upon the top of a huge stalagmite ; another in some dark recess ; others at the 
several points of ingress and egress ; another behind some half-transparent curtain ; 
others where the light may fall upon masses of glistening crystals ; another where 
some grotesque shape may be best exhibited — let them all (as they will do) 
suddenly unveil their lights — the effect can be likened only to that which the 
gorgeous fictions of the East attribute to the power of the necromancer. 



90 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

It is not a single wonder, but a succession of wonders such as these which the 
visitor is invited to examine ; and every year is adding to their number. Hitherto 
all the discoveries have been made by the neighbouring peasants, who are scantily 
recompensed for their time and labour by the gratuities of strangers, and who 
have no encouragement to the hazard incident upon further explorations ; but the 
enterprise of a scientific person supplied with sufficient means, would, no doubt, 
exhibit the interior of the mountain as one entire " cave," and probably effect a 
passage through it. 

About a mile south of Fermoy is a high hill, overlooking the town, and present- 
ing a conspicuous appearance throughout the country, some addition being given 
to its natural elevation by a huge pile of stones on the summit. This is Cairn 
Thierna, or the Lord's Heap, ancUs said to owe its name to the following legend. 
The country round belonged to the Lords Roche, Viscounts Fermoy, and they had a 
stately castle at Castletown Roche ; but destiny was busy with this noble house, and 
the only child of the chieftain was doomed. At his birth a wise woman predicted 
he would be drownded before he reached his twenty-first year ; and to avert this ca- 
lamity was, no doubt, an important object to his disconsolate parents. The absence 
of water was in such case desirable, and he might truly be said never to have 
seen that element in a greater body than a drinking vessel ; at all events, 
when he was growing to man's estate, he was never permitted to go near a stream, 
and a site was selected on which to build a castle, where he was to reside until the 
prophecy was proved untrue. The high hill near Fermoy being very remote from 
the dreaded element, was pitched on, and the gobaeen saer, or skilful architect, 
planned a castle that would only take a week to complete. The materials were all 
prepared, and the young Roche desired to see the place where he was to reside so 
soon. He had just attained his twentieth year, and the first week of the dreaded 
time was to see him in his new abode ; accordingly his wish was complied with, 
and he mounted the hill. Here, apart from danger, he was suffered to enjoy what 
was long withheld — his freedom. He ran about unattended ; no danger 
threatened there. Who shall resist the decrees of fate, or strive against its warn- 
ings ? The youth saw a large tub, and looked over the steep brim. It was filled 
with some glassy fluid, and, mirror-like, showed a faithful representation of himself 
in the bottom. His curiosity was roused to ascertain how this was. He climbed 
the steep side and fell in. This was the large vat holding water to be used for the 
mortar. The poor young man struggled but in vain ; the slippery sides gave no 
profiting aid ; his cries were soon stifled by the treacherous element, and when he 
was looked for they found his lifeless form. The prophecy was fulfilled. The 
building was of course neglected, and the stones lying on the hill witness the 
authenticity of the legend. 

Antiquarians are of opinion, that here the Tanist was chosen in former times, 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



91 



and the heaps of stones the seats of the different tribes. Dr. Smith considers that 
these heaps are the remains of specula?, or places for signal-fires, such as Virgil 
mentions. 

" Hanc super in speculis, summoque in vertice montis." * 




At some short distance to the north of Fermoy is a curious ancient altar or 
tomb — even tra- 
dition renders no 

information of its _ ; 

purport; but, from 
similar structures 
in various parts of 
the British Isles, 
generally supposed 
to be druidical. 
The engraving an- 
nexed represents 
the north side. It 
is commonly called 
Laibhe Colloch, 
or the Hag's Bed. 
We know that our 

Pagan ancestors worshipped under the canopy of heaven, in the plain, the sacred 
grove, and mountain top. The enduring traces of their unhallowed rites remain 
after their religion has been banished by the mild light of Christianity. We find 
druids' altars in wood and dell, by hill and valley, and there is little doubt 
this was one. It consists of several broad flags, supporting huge rocks placed on 
them. One of these measures eighteen feet long by nine broad ; in the centre 
about three feet thick, growing thinner as it slopes to the edges. This and others 
covering the space — one eleven feet long by seven broad, another seven feet 
square. The entire measures forty feet on the outside in length, and nearly eigh- 
teen wide : it is hollow underneath. I crept in, but it is very low — not three feet 
high. There is a deep indent in one of the stones near the road leading to Glan- 
worth, which the people about say was the act of the giantess who lived here, 
striking the rock with her sword in rage after her husband ; and as he fled one of 
her stormy curtain lectures, she pursued him and flung a stone at him when 
crossing the river, which crushed him in the middle of the Funcheon, where it lies 



L $^0^ " 



* .Eneid, xi. 526. 



92 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

to this day. Seeing the effect of her passion recalled her affection, and she ex- 
claimed in Irish, " Bad as Geoffry was I am worse without him." 

It is attributed to the strength of Fion Macoul, in the following Legends. 

LEGENDARY TALES. 

No. 1. Fiox Macoul. 

" And they say this building was the work of a giant," I inquired of old 
Pierse Mulcahy, an aborigine of the district, whose grey hairs scantily confined by 
his well-worn coubeen* floated in the breeze. 

" Throth ye may say that," responded Pierse, " and the work of a grate joint ^ 
for sartin." 

" What was his name ? " quoth I. 

" Fion Macoul." 

" Come near me, Pierse, and tell me all about it," I said, as I seated myself on 
one of the moss-covered stones, beneath the shade of a blooming white thorn, and 
suffering my steed to browse on the luxuriant herbage which flourished at my 
feet, I motioned the old antiquary to take a seat beside me. 

" With all pleasure in life, and why not for your honour surely," he answered, 
and the old man leaned his chin upon his staff, and thus began : — 

" This rock, sir," said he, " was once upon a time, in the county Limerick. 
You may stare, sir, but from that place to this you wo'n't follow the stone. At 
this time, in that country, there lived a famous joint named Fion Macoul, who, by 
his prowess and great bravery, held most of the neighbouring chiefs in terror 
and su'mission. There was also a continkerry of his in the western highlands 
ov Scotland, a joint named Diarmid Machane, whose fierce stature and brave spirit 
awed the lairds into obedience. He had heard much, from the close business car- 
ried on between the two kingdoms, of the valour of the Irish haro, an' accordingly 
sent him a challenge for a trial of strength. 

" ' What in the name of St. Patrick will I do at all, at all ? ' muttered Fion to 
his wife, when he received the challenge. 

" < What's the matter, agra ? ' J says she. 

" ' Read this,' says he, handing the challenge. 

" ' What would you do,' she said, ' but fight for the honour of your country, 
to be sure.' 

" ' It's very asy for you to talk,' replied Fion, ' but you know nothing of 
Diarmid Machane.' 

* Old hat. f Giant J Dear. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 93 

" ' At any rate,' answered the wife, ' don't be afeard ; send him your acceptance, 
and trust to me to bring you through.' 

" Fion did as he was desired, and committed himself to the direction of his wife. 
It was a fine, lovely morning, in the depth of summer. The sun was brightening 
every object with his rays ; the various birds were singing their morning carols, 
and even the little robin -redbreast, standing with its tiny feet on the brochaun, 
was melting the hearts of every listener with its sweet melancholy song : the early 
dawn roused the impatient Diarmid to search for fame ; and having a stout stick 
in his hand, formed from one of the lofty pines on the high summits of the 
Grampian hills, he lightly stept across the stream of salt water, commonly called 
' The Channel,' which separates this country from Great Britain, and ' whistling 
as he went for want of thought,' strided fast and far, into the territories of his 
antagonist. 

" At length, darkening the broad disc of the sun, as his huge figure made the 
ground tremble beneath his feet, he blocked up the doorway of the house of 
Macoul, in making his entrance ; seeing no one at home but the woman, he 
inquired, " Is the man o' the house within ? " 

" ' Troth no then he's not,' sis she, ' who shall I say was axin for him.' 

" ' I'm the Scotch joint" sis he: 'do you know where he is?' 

" ' My husband went over the hills this morning,' said she, ' to change the 
sitiashin of the city of Cork.' 

" ' Indeed ! ' exclaimed the joint in astonishment, ' and when do you expect 
him home ? ' 

« t Why thin I don't know,' she replied, ' but s'poses he'll be back soon, for an 
hundred acres is nothing for him to lift.' 

" ' Hah ! ' muttered the stranger. 

" ' Yes,' she continued, ' and left me here, a lone woman, with no one to mind the 
house but the youngest child, and he, poor fellow, isn't out ov his first sleep yet.' 

" ' Is this the child?' says the other, going to the cradle, and viewing with 
astonishment the colossal figure stretched therein. 

" ' Troth, that he,' says she. 

" ' An' the youngest you have ? ' 

" ' The youngest I have.' 

" When Fion saw the stranger, he gave a screech so loud, that the Scotchman 
leaped eight or ten feet off the ground, and looked like one exspiflified. 

" ' 'Tis his breakfast he wants, poor cratur,' says the woman, ' hush a cushla, 
and going to the fire-place where some huge cakes were baking, gave him one, 
which he swallowed at a mouthful, though it would have made a reasonable meal 
for five ordinary men. 

Give me one, too,' says the stranger ; ' the walk has given me an appetite.' 



a i 



94 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

" * Here,' says she, and, unseen, she slipped into the broad cake the iron griddle. 

" ' Oh ! murther, murther ! my teeth are broke by that infernal cake,' he said, 
dashing the meal to the ground. 

" ' What's the matter ? ' innocently inquired the wife of Fion. 

"'Oh!" says he, 'that child ov yours bates Banagher any how for aitin 
that cake.' 

" ' Faix,' sis she, ' if you say that of him, what'll he be when he cuts his 
teeth?' 

" ' And arn't they cut yet ? ' 

" ' Troth no,' sis she. 

" He put his hand in the mouth to try, when the jaws closed, and crack cut 
through the flesh. The joint roared, mille murther, and the child laughed like 
fun. The woman, after something to do, at last succeeded in stoppin the blood, 
and bound up the wound wid the tail ov her apron. 

" ' Get up now a lauah? says she, ' an' show the gentleman what you can do.' 

" Fion did as he was desired, and he, with the stranger, went out on the hill. 

" ' Can ye na pitch a stoan, my mon?' asked the brawny Scotchman of his 
youthful companion. 

" ' I thry sometimes,' modestly replied Fion ; ' but my father and brothers 
make game of me, I fall so short of the mark.' 

" The house, seemingly afire, now occupied their attention, for thick clouds of 
black smoke were curling round the roof and chimnies. 

" ' Had we not better go an' thry to put out the fire ?' said the stranger. 

" ' No occasion in life,' answered Fion ; * its only the smoke that's troubling it.' 

" ' An' does that often trouble you ?' 

" ' Why never at all, when father's at home.' 

" ' How does he contrive to prevent it ? ' 

" Bekaise when the chimbley smokes, he puts his shoulder to the gable ind, 
and turns the house round from agin the wind, an' thin the fire draws most 
iligantly.' 

" Nothing would satisfy the other but he should go down, an' try his strength ; 
but sorra a stir could he move the wall, nor if he was at it to this day. 

" ' Come, now,' says Fion, ' an' see how I throw a stone !' Now, my dear sir, 
you must know that this same Laibhe Colloch stood in a field hard by, and to 
this Fion clapped his shoulder, and exerting all his strength, in the name ov 
St. Patrick, pitched it to this very spot, from which it has never moved. 

" In amazement the stranger viewed the performance. ' That will do,' says 
he. ' Can your father throw farther than that ? ' 

" ' My father ! ' shouted Fion. ' My father would throw that to where you 
came from.' 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 95 



" The Scotchman heard no more, but never stopped till he found himself safe 
and sound, on the other side of the border, amid the remote valleys of the High- 
land hills." 

No. 2. The Leprehaun's Bottle. 

" I told you, sir, that they were red-hot with drinking ; 
So full of valour, that they smote the air 
For breathing in their faces ; * * * * 
* * * * at last I left them 
I' the filthy mantled pool beyond your cell, 
There dancing up to the chins." Tempest. 

From the top of the hill, on the road to G-lanworth, whence the view of the 
Funcheon breaks suddenly on you, with its green and shady banks, sloping towards 
its clear bubbling waters, is seen the smart little village of Glanworth. The 
church crowning the grassy knoll, beyond which is the ancient and venerable 
castle, its narrow embrasures, ruined archways, and dilapidated walls, clearly 
defined against the ethereal vault. Here remains, for the inspection of the curious, 
the celebrated natural wonder called Laibhe Colloch, or the Hag's Bed, consisting 
of one huge rock, placed lengthways on two smaller ones. What makes it the 
more singular is, that no stone of the same genus is to be found in the surrounding 
country, and the prodigious size of the stones renders it unlikely that they could 
have been carried from any distance by the strength of men. Therefore the con- 
clusion drawn by the untaught peasant is, that the good people, aliter the fairies, 
were the artificers. 

In a mud edifice, vulgarly yclept " cabin," at the foot of the aforesaid hill, there 
lived an old man, who went by the pet name of Shamus na Bo, or " James of the 
Cow," from his being for many years in the capacity of herd to one of the neigh- 
bouring gentry ; and long after he was deprived of his situation by age, the 
sobriquet remained undisturbed. Shamus was a constant guest and visitor at 
all the wakes and weddings in the barony, where his flow of spirits and merry 
tale procured him a hearty welcome. With the garrulity of old age, when talking 
of youthful feats, he was peculiarly proud when called on for a story, and 
generally contrived to make himself the hero. I had the good fortune to hear the 
following, which, for the reader's sake, " would it were worthier." 

" Well, my boys and girls, as it's come to my turn, what story will ye have 
to-night ? " asked Shamus, as sitting on the settle at Shawn (John) Doran's cottage 
one fine night in the harvest season, surrounded by the farmer and his family, 
together with some of the reapers, and handing his eternal dhudeen* to his next 

* A short pipe blackened. 



96 HISTOKICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

neighbour, to keep the life in it, he finished the noggin of whisky with winch he 
was supplied, then waited for his cue. 

" Yerah ! Jem, wo'n't ye tell us the story ov the spirit that haunted Downing 
Bridge on'st upon a time?" 

" No ! let him spake about the little ragged colt that strayed away from Micky 
Regan's, and after livin wid the Shecogues*, an', I'm tould, ran a couple of hates 
(heats), kem home agin." 

" Never mind that," says another ; " let's have the joint o' the seven castles." 

" Mille murther ! " says Shamus ; " did any one ever hear the likes ov ye ? 
Shure if ye goes on this way, I wo'n't be let spake till doomsday. Can't ye be 
excided at once? Did any ov ye ever hear of the man that banished the ' Hag' 
from Laibhe Colloch?" 

" No ! " shouted all ; " let us have it," 

" Why first let me inform ye that it was myself that did it," said he, looking 
about with an air of conscious superiority. 

" You !" was echoed by each. " I never heard so much of your father's son 
afore." 

" Troth, but I did," interrupted one of the men. " Shamus mavoureneen f, do 
you recollect the time when you held the door agin the fifty pelice?" 

" Faix thin, 'tis I that do, Ned asthore; but did I ever tell you of the night 
I spent in the fairy's hall ? " 

" No," says Ned, " out wid it." 

" Mostha thin, but here goes," was the ready reply. 

" Most ov ye do, I dare say, remimber the berrin of poor Glium (William) 
Healy. He was a dacent man, an' a good Cristhin, such as the likes ov him ar'n't 
goin now at all ; but the night afore the funeral, all ov the wife's people, the 
O'Reardons, wid their cousins, the Mac Nallys, from Boherdurougha, wid all his 
own gossips, the O'Mullins's, an', by coorse, myself in the middle ov 'em, spent 
the evening in talking ould shanaos\ this way over our dhrop, and may be at 
times taking a shough § o' the pipe, so that in the mornin we were a little stupified 
after being up all night. But we managed to mount our garrons, an' take our 
places in the procession, for it was a grand berrin intirely, no doubt ; but faix 
'twasn't owing altogether to my ould baste ; for such a stageen you never led your 
two livin eyes on. Widout a tooth in the world in her, an' bad scran to the eye, 
she had but one, an' the light was out ov that same, her shoulder-blade would 
chew tobaccy, an' her back was all stripped from wearin a tight straddle ; her tail 
was cocked up agin the grace of God, and beside that she was dog lame, an' 



Fairies. f My dear. \ Gossip. § Whiff. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKAVATER. 97 



hopped along wid the funniest kind o' motion in the varsal world, the very 
picthur of a wounded crow. 

" Well, be that as it may, we held our place in the line o' march tal the poor 
deceased was clanely led in the could grave, an', after that was done, we were all 
treated to an iligant enthertainment, at the house of one Mr. O'Mahony. Here 
we got the best of usage, plinty ov bacon an' greens, wid eggs in dozens. I eat 
enough, an' as for drinking I'll say nottin ; but I took my pull so hearty as to get 
mulouthered, I don't mane drunk, only a little hearty ; but having satisfied our 
hunger an' drank galore, away we sot galloping an' driving, shouting and yelling, 
along the road, till, jast as it was gettin dark, the last o' the bys passed, laving 
me an' my misforthinate cratur ov a baste to get home as well as we could. 

" Yerah, by Jaburs ! but 'twas myself that had the heavy handful in her. You 
see now, there was one ov her legs that was strulin the road much like a drag, an' 
it was quite a matter ov impossibility to make any haste wid such an incumbrance, 
so I let her take her time, an' on she went, from one side o' the road to the other, 
for all the world as if she had a drunken person on her back ; at last she got 
frightened at the Laibhe Colloch, an' wid that, took such a fit o' kicking, that by 
the hole o' my coat, but she flung me, that blessed night, into the very middle o' 
the rocks. 

" ' Bad manners to you, for an unnathral ould vagibone,' says I, in a tarin 
passion (an' small blame to me), ' what med you thrate me so, if I did flog you for 
not goin straight ? Shure you well know you desarved it ; wait till I catch you, 
an' if I don't ' 

" Here the sight nearly left me, whin I parceved a little ould 'oman rise out ov 
the ground, wid a red 'kerchief on her head, and a dirty check apron spread out 
afore her, an' she sed to me that was shiverin an' shakin like a wet dog in a sack, 
' Shainus na Bo,' sis she, ' you drunken sot (and I as sober nearly as I am 
now), ' how dare you disturb me, an' I taking my cup of tay in comfort ? ' 

" ' Ma'am,' sis I, quite bould, (though, by my troth, 'tis I that was frickened,) 
* I am very sorry to hinder you from takin your droppun of tay, but I'm a poor 
dissolute cratur ov a man that's goin astray, an', as you knows my name, though 
I don't now recollect that I ever had the pleasure of seein yoar purty face afore, 
I'd be extremely obliged if you'd give me a night's lodging.' 

" ' Troth, but you're kindly welcome,' sis she ; for you must know I was a smart 
young man at the time, and wid my ginteel behavur, an' makin due summision 
to her better judgment, bad cess to the bit ov her, could find it in her heart to 
refuse ; so I was desired to follow her. 

" Down, down we went, til we kem to a very grand room intirely, wid lords 
an' ladies, ginerals, corporals, and all kinds ov rals. When I seed all these ra'al 
jontlemen an' ladies, I began to remimber my purliteness, an' whin I got my 



98 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

traheens* (savin your presence) inside the door, I up wit, 'God save all here;' 
but by the Sprig o' Shillelagh, 'tis myself that was near gettin a knock down for 
that same, from an oanshuck jov a chap wid wings on him, that the minit he 
napped 'em, the wind that they gothered ris me a'most off the face o' the earth. 
After a time they left off tormenting me, and axed me to sit down. 

" 'Will you drink any thing ?' sis one. 

" ' Thank'e kindly astore,' sis I, ' though I drank a power already ; but as I 
don't often fall into such good company seemingly, I don't wish to refuse, so I'll 
take a sup.' 

" Wid that they handed me a noggin ov the best, an' it was so mortual strong, 
that if I was any way tipsy (which I b'live was the case) before, I was blind 
when I finished. 

" Then they all thought to have rale sport. ' Will you try a wrastle ?' says 
one, a tiny little chap, wid a nightcap on his head, who was busily making 
a brogue. 

" Wid all the pleasure," sis I ; for he warn't the sise ov a six year ould child. 
A round circus was instantly med, he dropped the brogue an gripped me, an 
though he was much stronger than I gave him credit for at first, after a few 
twists, I tripped up his heels, an led him sprawlin on the flat of the back, cryin 
fifty murthers. 

" ' Any more ov yez ?' sis I (to humour the joke). 

" ' Yes ! ' answered another, ' will you box ? ' 

" ' Immediately,' sis I, an my dear life an sowl, but I tipped him a polthogue 
on the side of the head that med a report like a -gun. ' Any more o' ye,' sis I, 
quite innocently ; troth, but they war all dashed, an' gave no reply. 

" ' Now,' sis I, ' you s'posed to make grate game of me, a poor rustical counthry 
bye here to-night, trying what strength was in me ; but I'll lay any one o' ye a gallon 
of potteen, if ye have such a thing, that my own four bones will raise up the big 
top stone of Laibhe Colloch high enough to let out the ould Colloch in the corner.' 

" ' Done ! done ! ' sis one or two ov 'em, though they shook wid fear, by rason 
o' the ould prophesite. (Here, in a low tremulous voice, he repeated the four 
following lines) : — 

' Whene'er a man to lift the stone is found, 
From near the Funcheon or the country round, 
The fairies there can never again come — 
Their power is broken — all their charms undone.' 

" But nottin could bate the state of alarm the war in, when in good airnist they 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 99 

saw me moving the immense rock wid my bare shoulder. (B'live me, but it 
astonished myself, when I thought as how I used to be playin hide an' go seek 
in its crevices, when I was a gossooneen*, long ago.) It was wid tears and lament- 
ations in their eyes, they saw me rise the stone from off the supporters, where it 
had lain for hunders upon hunders o' years, an' the clear silver-like moon shinin 
through in all its unclouded brightness ; but what was sed should be done, an' they 
had to bid adieu to their ancient habitation. 

" ' Curse o' poverty on yon an' yours,' sis the spiteful ould hag, as she leapt out 
through the open space I med in the joints o' the bed. 

" ' Here's your wager,' sis the little Leprehaun, that bet wid me ; but mind you 
don't attempt to open it till the day ov your son's wedding,' (poor Shawn was 
alive then,) ' or if you do,' sis he, ' 'twill lose its virtue.' 

" I caught a good grip o' the bottle, an' the moment I did so, a cloud ov smoke, 
wid thunder an lightnin, ris under me, an' the crowds of Sheeogues that lost their 
kingdom through my manes, each as they flew out, hit me either a kick or a 
thump, that laid me senseless. 

" I awoke next morning, black an' blue, under the hag's bed, wid my bottle in my 
fist, which I took especial good care to keep out of harm's way. 

" Well, boys dear, but you all remimber Shawn's weddin day, such a meeting 
wasn't since the days o' Fion Macoul long ago ; for there were the old Shaugh- 
nassy's, her own people, wid the faction ov the O'Sullivans, nate clane bys all ; 
then the Carty's, wid ourselves, the O'Mullins's ; all kem, some ridin on their 
sportin horses, some walkin for pleasure, more on their cars, and then the fay- 
males, my glory to ye, but yed take the sight ov a body's eye wid yere lovely 
looks. They kem on fine feather beds, more on pillions, ornamented wid red 
ribbons, that war no more to be compared to their rosy cheeks than a dhrop o' 
parliament to a sup ov potteen. 

" "Well, when the dinner was over, an' they began to think ov drinking, I up wid 
my quare ould bottle, an', by coorse, was the first to taste it ; 'twas morthual sthrong, 
as was purty clear afther it was circulated a couple o' times ; so for fear ov any 
fallings out, I thought it better to have in the piper, but by ganys, though he 
played might an' main, an' the girls used all their coaxin triks, sorrow a one wou'd 
lave the table as long as the Leprehaun's liquor lasted, an', bad luck to the mis- 
fortunate bottle, but, as soon as it was empty, was filled up again, though no one 
knew the sacret foreby myself. 

" By an bye, in obedience to the spirited remonstrance of some o' the steady 
ould patriarchs, the young men were prevailed on to dance; an', as if some- 
thing contrary was to be in every thing that was to happen that night, the 

* Little boy. 



100 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

very thing that we all supposed would cause quietness an' pace, was the very- 
manes of causing a scrimmage (skirmish), which very nearly involved the safety 
of all engaged in the ruction. For why, when it was found that Shawn was too 
far gone to lade off wid the wife, one of his gossips kem to take his place ; an' just 
as they war settin off like racers, one ov her cousins, a grate Boulam skuch 
(bully) ov a fellow kem a putting out his leg, tripped the young man as he was 
dancing, down he fell, an the bride's carcass (savin your presence) across him. 
Then the bad blood began to stir in good earnest. The clatter ov the shillelaghs 
bate time to the music ov the pipes, instead ov the brogues. In vain the dacint 
sinseble old men begged 'em to keep quiet ; in vain their sisters, wifes, and sweet- 
hearts prayed them to lave off. ' No ! the blood was drawn by the O'Mullins's, 
an' whin was an O'Shaughnessy afeard ov an' O'Mullins.' 

" At first there was rather a scarcity ov wattles, but the legs ov the big oak table 
supplied a good many, an the whack with which it, an the whole tribe of glases, 
rummers, and bottles, came to the ground, shook the whole house. Then you 
might see fathers, an brothers, an cousins-german, an uncles, fightin away for 
the bare life ; an if the house furniture wasn't knocked to smithereens*, I'm not 
Shamus na Bo. 

" At long last such as had the use ov their legs made the best of their way home, 
an such as couldn't stir lay snoring one top ov another, like hogs in the straw. I 
was one of the first to wake wid the first peep o' day, and afther removin three 
or four of the byes that war stretched a top o' me, I saw as well as I could see wid 
my eyes, which wasn't very visible, for theywer both swelled up like minion bucks 
(a kind of potatoe), hunders an' thousands ov * good people? wid Clurichauns an' 
Leprehauns in abundance, pick in up, for the bare life, the broken pieces of the 
black bottle which caused the whole ov the clumper\, an' was smashed in the 
beginnin ov the fray. These they handed to the self-same ould rapscallion, who 
gave it to me, and now wid a cocked hat on him, mighty ginteel, his legs cross- 
ways on his three-legged stooleen, was goin on Tack, Tack, Tack, Tack, hammerin 
them together for the bare life. And at times throwing a glance out o' the corner 
ov his little grey eyes that would pierce through a deal board, over the scene ov 
confusion out forenent him, he'd burst into a roar of laughter, that you'd think 
would never stop. I turned round to see if any more o' the boys was awake, an' 
just as I did so, the cock crew, an', at the sound ov the blessed bird, the fairies 
vanished. 

" Tellin the story as it happened, made all raal good friends, otherwise they 
might have renewed the battle, but all parted in good humour. Shawn did not long 
survive ; howsomdever I still remain to finish more of the good potheen, afther the 



* Pieces. f Disturbance. 






TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



101 



wonderful adventures I have gone through, raising up the stone of Laibhe Colloch, 
and drinking ov the Leprehaurts bottle." 

Here a fresh jorum was served round, and the health and long life of Shamus 
na Bo was shouted by all who heard his wonderful tale. 

Rodneck. 

There are other objects of antiquity in this neighbourhood, consisting of forts 
or raths, supposed to be of Danish origin, but many clever antiquarians assert, are 
of far greater antiquity. One is quite close to the town of Fermoy, on the race- 
course, with subterranean chambers. These underground chambers are very 
numerous in this district. I visited them at Ballyhinden and Castle Hyde, which 
are precisely similar. Annexed is a sketch of the entrance-ground place, and 




- 





interior of the latter set of chambers, three in number. They are low, not above 
six feet high, and about the same in diameter, of circular shape, and lined with 
stone. The entrances are very small, barely room to admit the body in a stooping 
posture. That indefatigable Irish antiquarian, Mr. Crofton Croker, considers 
these were formed by the native Irish for granaries, or secure depositories for 
their property in troubled times ; and that the entrenchments were thrown around 
their little wigwam settlements, as a defence against the enemy, be he man or 
wolves. It is also stated they were the dwellings of the Fisbolgs in ancient days. 
They are rarely disturbed, the raths being deemed by the superstitious the re- 
sidence of the sheeogues or fairies, and that misfortune will attend all who disturb 
the fairy territory. 



102 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



FROM FERMOY TO MALLOW. 

Proceeding up the river from Fermoy, on the north bank, close to the stream, 
stands Fermoy House, already noticed, with its verdant lawn, girt by a belt of trees 
forming a leafy canopy to a tasteful walk. The house is a handsome structure, 
consisting of a centre with wings, and has a neat portico approached by stone steps. 
It is at present occupied by the Rev. Maurice Atkin Collis. The gardens are very 
extensive, and well stocked ; the grapery stored with choice vines ; and the tout 
ensemble, seen from the river or the opposite bank, with the wooded hill to the rear, 
crowned by the noble range of .barracks, presents a charming picture. Near is 
the house of Mr. Baylor, and a little to the north is Grange Hill, the commodious 
and finely situated mansion of William Forward Austen, Esq., J. P., who has a 
considerable landed property adjoining. The greatest portion being kept in tillage, 
affords him the opportunity of employing several hands in agricultural labour, who, 
with good reason, speak of him as an upright and excellent master. 

South of the river is Mountford Lodge, the residence of Captain Peter Collis, 
and Riverview, occupied by Captain Croker. Higher on the hill is Duntahun, the 
house of Thomas Green, Esq. 

Opposite Duntahun, on the north bank, is a thickly wooded place, of winch the 
author is distrustful to speak. It is, perhaps, impossible to divest himself entirely of 
predilections towards a spot in the possession of those who are nearest and dearest, 
and in the adornment of which, he may say, pars magna f ui. This is Grange Farm ; 
the property of J.F. O'Flanagan, Esq. Although the ornamental grounds are limited 
to about twenty acres between the road and river, the planting has been so con- 
trived, and advantage was so taken of the natural resources of the localities, as to 
offer a wonderful variety of scenery. The garden, bounded by the fish-pond, is 
well laid out ; the slopes of the hill afford pasturage to those useful animals, that 
so agreeably enliven the landscapes of Wilson and Gainsborough, sheep. Con- 
tinuing by the road, along the river, we enter thick woodlands. Trees nod over 
our heads, where, with much labour and expense, rocks have been cut away, and 
forced to yield a passage to the miniature forest glades now opening before us. 
The river flows noiselessly by our side, and the dark rich woods of Castle Hyde 
seem a continuation of the demesne we walk in. A natural gap in the Castle 
Hyde trees, seen from our lower walk in summer time, when the leaves are out 
presents a perfect resemblance to a fair proportioned Gothic window ivy clad, and 
it requires small stretch of the imagination to suppose the time-honoured walls, 
concealed by the neighbouring wood. As we advance, butting cliffs frown from a 
great height, sylvan amphitheatres, tall groves, bowers, and thickets of shrubs and 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 103 



evergreens, for a dense covert, are on every side. The yellow laburnum mingling 
its golden drops with the sweet lilac ; the rhododendron and mountain ash are here 
in clusters, while magnificent trees, worthy a primeval forest, spread their branches 
over a mineral spa, discovered in 1828 ; a well was sunk, and the water analysed, 
but no steps taken to apply it to medicinal purposes. 

REMINISCENCES. 

" Adieu to thee again — a vain adieu ! 
There can be no farewell to scenes like this." — Byron. 

In summer time the air is mild, 

And brightly glows the cloudless sky ; 

The radiant moon oft gently smiled, 

Where pillow'd waves on ocean lie. 

But oh ! beneath the heaven there's not 

A sweeter nor a lovelier spot ; 

Nor can the sunbeam's radiancy 

Display a scene so fair as thee, 

Where his latest rays are tinging 

The tops of hills, with that bright fringing, 

That's liken'd to the sapphire's blaze, 

Or diamond-like entrancing rays 

Of eastern maiden's piercing eye, 

Where Amras bloom and Peris fly. 

The stream in rapid eddy foams along, 
And now so calm it scarcely seems to flow, 
So dark, so deep — now bursting forth anon — ^ 
Wave succeeds wave in whirlpools from below ; 
And the wild gushing beats upon the ear, 
While straying through the thickly-shaded grove, 
The trees on either side their branches rear, 
To form those vistas where I often rove. 

How mildly beautiful to stray 

Thro' woodland paths at close of day ; 

The dews have lightly wet the flower, 

The water's murmur, the wind's power, 

All — all are hush'd ; yet the blackbird shrill, 

And the nightingale doth gently fill 

The air with music — while around 

The violet sweet perfume breathes, 

So modest it can scarce be found ; 

But like a clue its own smell leads 

The hand to pluck its purple flower, 

Which blush'd unseen until that hour. 



104 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



It is a tranquil thing to glide 

In summer time o'er thy dark river; 

To muse o'er thy untroubled tide, 

Tho' waveless, it is beauteous ever; 

To hear the sweet notes of the thrush, 

Pour'd forth in song ; yet in the rush 

Of music there is oft a sadness, 

More pleasing to the heart than gladness ; 

And hush ! the plaintive strain is still, 

And echo's ceas'd from yonder hill. 

How oft I've gaz'd on thy glassy depth 
When the sun beneath the ocean slept, 
And the mild moon her pale beams threw, 
Where on thy banks sweet wild flowers grew ; 
And thy bold rocks I lov'd to climb, 
With moss and ivy cover'd o'er, 
Where roses wild in fragrance twine 
Above. Beneath the water's roar 
Is heard — o'er which the willow weeps ; 
And by thy brink the acacias bloom, 
And out thy banks the hare-bell peeps, 
'Mid underwood of birch and broom. 

Here oft my mind in silence felt 
Such feelings as scarce ever dwelt 
With worldly men — and e'en though past, 
Their ecstasy seems still to last — 
Such scenes of lonely loveliness, 
That Nature, in her brightest dress, 
Could scarce portray again the same. 
Then have I felt the glowing tone 
That lights the Muse's hallow'd flame, 
When from the earth, in fancy flown, 
I touch'd the chords with poet glow, 
And sang past scenes of weal or woe. 

To the sportsman no apology is required for the following account of the last 
moments of David Walsh, well known along the Blackwater banks as a capital 
rider to hounds. He died in Grange Farm House. Imagination supplies the 
latter division of the narrative. 

He is represented as having sent a special messenger, praying the author to 
visit him once ere he departed this life. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 105 



" AN OLD FOLLOWER. PART I. THE DYING HUNTSMAN S LAST REQUEST. 

' Time, stern Huntsman, who can baulk ? 
Stanch as hound, and fleet as hawk.' Scott. 

" I could not refuse the earnest entreaty of my faithful old follower, whom I had 
not seen for years of absence, though the office I had undertaken was a painful 
one, which I would have willingly avoided altogether. The words ' May-be you 
wouldn't catch him alive' quickened me, so I put on my great coat and hurried 
across the fields to the farm-house in which he spent the last years of his life. 
Each object that presented itself reminded me of the merry clays we had passed 
together, and incidents long forgotten, or hidden beneath the pressure of more 
important avocations, started vividly to my memory. The woods, the fields, the 
furze brakes, the coverts by the hill side, all presented the image of Davy Walsh, 
cheering the hounds, or riding manfully in the thick of the flying sportsmen ; and 
when I recollected the errand I was on my pulse beat quicker, and a throb of 
emotion filled my heart. The day, too, was heavy and cheerless. December had 
set in with frost, but a cold thaw succeeded, and dews fell thick and damp. A 
filmy mist hung from the boughs of the oak and ash growing on the ditches, and 
the air felt clammy and moist. I walked alone, for the messenger who came for 
me had to get milk and some jelly for the invalid. My thoughts were sad. The 
voice that so often made the welkin ring with the view halloo ! the breath which 
woke the mountain echoes by the cheering blasts of the horn ; the cry which 
enlivened the tuneful herd, was soon to be silent and mute as a hound at fault. 
Happy days of old recalled their pictures with the gay colouring the freshness of 
my young imagination invested them with — Davy, mounted on his game hunter, 
attired in his scarlet coat and hunting cap, surrounded by the pack, and then, in 
my opinion, much more enviable than a chieftain amidst his fawning vassals ; 
then, and perhaps now. Davy's attendants were at least as honest and faithful. 
No courtier was more jealous of the kind word, more ambitious of a kind look from 
his royal master, than the hounds were of Davy's looks and words — he cared 
for their comforts before his own — every one of them looked on him as his 
natural protector — he loved them as a father would his children — they exulted in 
his presence. I thought of his return in the evening after the chase was 
done. How many a time and oft I have stolen from the boisterous company 
in the parlour, and sought the quiet of his little closet oft" the harness room. Here, 
while partaking a bottle of wine which I generally abstracted for him, his tales of 
hard-run bursts, jumps over huge ditches, spinning over thatched houses, &c, 
would while away the hours, and fill my breast with a love for performing similar 
feats ; but those days are gone, never to return. The old hunter is run to earth ; 



lOti HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



the horn winds his lust rcchcaf. and sounds mart ! No more will his merry halloo ! 
resound in the grove, or awaken the echoes on the hills. No more will his 
cheering voice 



The ATide old wood from its majestic rest. 
Gathering from the innumerable houghs 

. thousand melodies that haunt its breast.' 

The game may now rest in his lair — the fox go leisurely from covert to covert — 
the hare slumber in her form — the red-deer march secure with his herd — their 
mighty destroyer's chase is over. Occupied with these thoughts. I nearly stum- 
bled, without perceiving, over an old hound lying lazily across the porch of the farm- 
house. He sprang to his feet in ao instant, and showed his jaws — toothless : but 
though quite blind, he had not lost the sense oi smell, and wagging his tail, rubbed 
his head against me. and placed his paws on my breast, having recognised his old 
master. On leaving home I desired him to be sent to Davy : he was the last of 
the old pack. * Down. Ranger; down, sir :' I repressed his greeting, and on passing 
into the house was accosted by the inmates. { Och ! blessings "tend your honour; 
'tis you have the spirit ot' a ra'al gentleman, to come and visit the ould follower.' 

•• • How i- Davy to-day ?' 1 inquired. 

M 'Wisha! going, Sir; going fast Poor man. he is in no pain, glory be to 
God. and had the priest ; and sings and prays iW you and the ladies, as good right 
he has v the kind ladies to him. Jelly and tay. and port wine and 

lump sugar galore and in lashir 

" ■ Do you think I might go in to him now ?' 1 asked, to escape the garrulous 
van iti 

•• • To be Bure : and 'tis mighty plazed he'll be to see your honour lookin' so 
brave and hearty after your journey in furrin parts, I be bound." 

•• I went into the passage, at the end of which was the apartment, then oc- 
cupied by my poor huntsman. On reaching the door I was induced to pause, as 
the voice of the dying man chaunting the Modi ran ruadh f. came distinctly on mine 
It was many a long year since I last heard him sing it, after the famous run 
from Ryder's Brake to Kilmurry. and in deep emotion I listened to the once 
manly and powerful voice, now alas ! shrunk to • treble pipes, and whistling in its 
sound.' The words were audible and the refrain as follows : — 

• •• Good morrow, fox ! " M Sarvint, Sir ! " 
M Pray what have you heen ate' 
" A fine fat goose I stole from you : 
N won't you come and taste i 

Modereen ruadh ! Modereen ruadh ! 

* Old woman of the house. f Red Fox's Elegy. 






TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 107 



Tally ho ! the fox, a colleanun ! 
A fine fat goose I stole from you, 
For -which you'll die in the morning. 

* " Ah, huntsman dear ! I'll he your friend, 
If you'll let me go till the mom — 
Don't call on the hounds for one half hour, 

Or do not sound your horn; 
In truth I am tired after yesterday's chase, 
I can neither run nor walk -well ; 

Let me once to the rocks, amongst my own race, 
Where I was hred and born." 

Modereen ruadh ! Modereen ruadh ! 
Tally ho ! the fox, a colleanun ! 
Tally ho ! the fox — 
Over hills, dales, and rocks, 
We'll chase him on till the morning.' 

" A short pause ensued, as if the remembrance of clays long vanished checked 
the flow of song, and I was proceeding to enter the apartment when the poor old 
man resumed his recitative : — 

' I lock'd him up, an' fed him well, 
And gave him victuals of all kinds ; 
But I declare to you, Sir, when he got loose, 
He ate a fat goose in the morning. 
" So now kneel down, and say your prayers, 
For you'll surely die this morning." 
" Ah, Sir ! " says the fox, " I never pray ; 

And I'm all danger scorning." 

Modereen ruadh ! Modereen ruadh ! 
Tally ho ! the fox, a colleanun ! 
A fine fat goose you stole from me, 

For which you'll die this morning.' 

" Thus he continued pursuing the chase through all its variations in this ancient 
ballad, interlarding its verses with original words, until he wound up by the last 
will and testament of Reynard, as follows : — 

' To Roderick O'Flanagan I leave my estate ; 
To you, John O'Neil, all my money and my plate ; 
To the Dennehys of Bellevue, my spurs, whip, and cap, 
For they always leap'd the ditch, and never look'd for the gap.' 

" The sounds having ceased, I opened the door softly and went in. Davy, small 
at best, was now a mere skeleton ; his faded scarlet coat hung loosely on his dwindled 
form ; from beneath his nightcap a few silver-grey locks hung loosely on his sunken 



108 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

features ; a hectic flush was on his shrivelled cheeks, like a sunbeam on a ruin. 
He Looked up as my presence darkened the light which fell from the window, and 
as lie recognised me, pleasure once more beamed in his honest face. ' Fealthea- 
cead mille fealthea, ma cushla ma chre*, Masther Rhody,' and the veteran hunts- 
man caught my hand to his lips, and kissed it with heartfelt gratitude. 'I'll die 
asy now, since I seen you once again, ma bran bouchal.\ I fear'd I'd never more 
lay liviu' eyes on you, an' that was cuttin' me sore.' 

" lie appeared overcome by emotion, and sunk on the bed exhausted. Presently 
lie rallied a little and sat up. 

" ' I'm sorry to see you so low, Davy; is there any thing we could get for you?' 

"'Grod bless you and the young ladies at the barrack house; 'tis you are 
the kind friend- lo the ould follow-er, and sure 'tis nothing I want for that I don't 
get. Nothing is wanting, Sir. I have the besl of every tiling.' 

" < How docs your health feel ?' 

" ' Wisha, I'd be mighty well, your honour, only for the cough ; the cough is 
killing me;' and certainly a lit with which he was seized almost verified his words 

in my presence. 

" ' Can you find no relief from the doctor?' I inquired. 

" 'All means have failed, and indeed 'twas no fault of theirs, for the doctors gave 

me all sort- of trial, but I can't expect the health now I oncest had. You remember 
old time-, Sir, the good old times ? ' 

" ' That I do, Davy, and shall as long as I live.' 

" 'So .-hall I, Sir; though troth that's no big word, for Fin going, Sir, fast to 

earth, like a fox after a long run ; and there's the use of being here when one 
outlives life, aa I may Bay, now my hunting days are over, and like an old hound 
I'm not worth feeding? I lost my spirits entirely, Sir, when I could hunt no more, 

and my health followed, for 1 pined for the cry of hounds. Often have 1 Bat by 

the river side and heard the belling of the stage in ( Sastle Hyde deer-park, as they 

came to drink in the stream, and in the morning would awake at cock-crow, to 

wind a blast on my horn by the old wood-side, and Listen to the echoes, fancying 

them the hounds in full cry. All the amusement I had was to hear old Hannagan 
play the modereen on the pipes, and now he's left the place.' 

" ' Well, Davy, I can promise you some of your favourite music now that the 
frost has cleared off, for there's now near the barracks a sweet pack of twenty 
couple of the best matched fox-hounds yon ever saw, and the kennel is better than 
ever — than it was even in Colonel Yates's time.' 

" i Tear an 1 agurs! what a pity I can't ride!' said the old man. * So the old place 

* Welcome! a hundred thousand welcomes, my dear, to my heart! 
f My fine boy. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 109 

is again tenanted ; well, God is good.' A prayer to Heaven was the fervent out- 
pouring of a thanksgiving heart. 

" ' The kennel, Davy, is just what you always wished for. The lying room is 
kept as clean as a new pin, and there is another close by to change the dogs into 
while it is cleaning.' 

" ' That's right, Sir. All the health and comfort of the dogs depend on the 
kennel — and cleanliness over ornament any day. "With air, fresh straw, and plenty 
of room, defy the distemper.' 

" * Now good-by, Davy ; and as we mean to draw Glenabo covert in the 
morning, you shall hear a tune that will make you sing Modereen ruadh for the 
next ten seasons, 'twill put such life in you.' 

" ' I make bould to ax one request of your honour — may-be the last, so I'm sure 
you wo'n't refuse me.' 

" ' Any thing in reason, Davy, you are sure to have.' 

" * Why thin 'tis this. The windy of the loft overhead looks out on Glenabo, 
and as I would die of vexation to be left down here and all the rest having a view 
of the fun, all I ax is, to be moved, bed and all, up stairs in the morning, to have 
one more view of the fox and the pack, and you and the gentlemin flyin' over the 
ditches as if they were pratie ridges — and sure that's not onrasonable.' 

" ' Are you not afraid of the cold, my game old soul ?' 

" * Och ! not a bit ; 'tis an ould friend of mine this cough, and comes here as 
well as any where else.' 

" ' Farewell, then, I grant your request, but you must not stay too long.' 

" ' God preserve you and yours from harm, Aniin,' said he, as pressing my hand 
again to his thin lips, a tear trickled from his aged eyelids. I hastily left the room 
to hide my own emotion, and gave the requisite orders to have him conveyed over- 
head in the morning. I went up myself, and true enough the view commanded a 
splendid prospect. The line of wood circling Glenabo, and skirting the deer-park 
of Castle Hyde, was distinctly visible on the opposite side of the river. Between 
rolled the Blackwater, glancing like a broad mirror. All looked cold and desolate 
in the hue of winter, and the chill air of the apartment made me repent having 
acceded to the old invalid's request. It would break his heart, however, to coun- 
termand it, so desiring he should be kept warm, and not exposed to cold, I returned 
to my house. 



110 BI8TOBXCAL AMj PICTUKESQUE GUIDE 



" PAItT II. — THE CHASE FROM GLENABO WOOD. 

■ver did I hear such gallant chiding, 
For beside the . • skies, and erery region near, 

mutual cry — I never heard 
Bo musical a discord — such sweet thunder.' Shakspeare. 

"The sportsman, if a person of intellectual and cultivated mind, finds an interest 
in the pursuit of the game, independenl ofj and superior to, the mere animal gratifi- 
cation, and this also of a nobler and higher character. His avocations lead him 
into the quiet haunt- of nature, sequestered spots seldom trodden by the busy foot 
of man. and in these Bhe unfolds rich treasures to enchant the eye. The blushing 
dawn of mom summons him from his couch, and the birds Binging their matin 
hymns, as if rejoicing in the new-born day, awake pi thanksgiving 

in his soul. II'- goetfa forth to the chase, and his ear is delighted with the 
vrarblings which resound from the grove, while his Hi/lit is gladdened by the 
diversity of bright and variegated objects on hill, and tree, and river. lie learns 
to mark die i ariation of seasons by the different hue of the Leaves, the tender green 
of the bud, the withered brown of the decayed leaf, or the yellow tin- ding 

the change from green to the tint it takes ere its fill. That fall itself seems to remind 
him how like the leaf, which twitters tremulously to the earth and is changed into 
mould, he, in hie turn, and the wind'- race of men from Adam downward, have 
been doomed one day or other to experience a like end ; and be recollects there 
son! which dietb not, but livetb to good or evil everlasting for cither. 

" 'Thunder and turf] you musl nave overslept yourself this morning, or you 
would not be so late at the meet, 1 said old Captain Wnackman, pulling from bis fob 
a huge turnip-shaped watch. ' Why, if- exactly half-past ten, and here am I and 
old Bob shivering since ten minutes before ten ex-act-ly.' 

« * i beg your pardon, my dear fellow ; but I really had no idea il lie. I 

will be more punctual in future.' 

" ' That'- what I hear every day.' said the Captain. ' In my younger <la 
friend, we used to be returning from hunting the time people ,L r o out now-a-d 
Meel at nalf-pasl seven, run b burst of a couple of hours, and kill or run to earth 
before fcweh e al latest.' 

" ' What advantage was in thai ?' inquired one of the field. 

• -I be scent, Sir, lies best when the dew ia on the ground, and I take, it that's no 
small advantage.' 

" ' Come, we musl lose no time now,' I said. ' Throw off the <\<>j-. i arty, and 
get into covert as fast as possible. Halloo! gel in — gel in!' Wewereonthe 
alert in a second, and Wnackman'e face assumed it- good-humoured expression. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. Ill 

" We, that is about twenty red-coated gentry, some officers of the Fermoy garrison, 
and sportsmen from the town, were clustered by the river side, while the hounds 
were drawing the plantations along the Inches. Suddenly the broad face of the 
rock re-echoed with the shrill cry of a young hound. We waited breathlessly for 
some more certain tidings : the hoarser note of an old dog soon put us in motion. 

* Hark to, Trueman ! Yoic ! yoic ! Have at him, my darlings ! ' Fresh voices 
swell the cry : ' Hark to, Rattler, Trueman, and Vengeance ! ' The animated 
strain rolls on. My thorough-bred hunter pricked up his ears, and pawed the 
ground impatiently. I moved gently in the direction the pack led, and louder yet 
the clamour grew, for every hound in the wood were united in one grand orchestra. 

* I trust they'll not kill in the covert,' said one of the officers. ' Not the least 
fear of that, I'm sure,' said old Whackman, and suddenly raising his voice to a 
deafening pitch, ' Tally-ho ! tally-ho! hark forward! my honeys,' as a gallant 
fox daslicd boldly from the wood, and made for the open country. 

" There cannot possibly be a moment of greater excitement to a sportsman, than 
when the hounds get away with the fox. The world is all before him where to 
choose, not his place of rest, but where to face to, and wherever he goes we follow. 
The rushing river, the yawning chasm, the stone wall, the earthen bank — we swim 
across, we overleap, we scramble over. AYhoso flinches at that moment is no 
sportsman ; whoso pulls bridle then is thrown out, or deserves to be so. Away we 
go. ' Forward !' is the cry. 

" The fox, an uncommon stout one, faced right up the hill, and some difficulty 
was experienced, especially by those ignorant of the ground, the ascent was so 
precipitous. After crossing the mountain-top, he turned and dashed towards the 
river, which he crossed at Templenoe. We pursued. The hounds were seen 
running full cry towards Ashfield, and the fencing was tremendous, the banks 
being Stiff and numerous. Instead of seeking shelter at Ashfield, however, Rey- 
nard made a foil close by Creg, and thought to make back to his kennel; but 
meeting with the Held as they came on, slapped right again into the Blackwater, 
and swam to the opposite bank. I instantly galloped across the ford ; and having 
good reason to know its intricate windings (I narrowly escaped drowning there 
before), reached the shore in safety. Now the hunt began in right earnest. The 
fox, much refreshed by his swim, started off at a rapid pace, the hounds having 
him in view running breast high. Many of the horses ridden by those out not 
having had the ring I rode, now being fresher, put my hunter on his mettle, and a 
regular steeple chase ensued ; and, by this time, the thinned field and jaded pack 
told that by possibility Reynard could not long hold out. We had hunted him 
from Creg to Cairn, across the bogs of Glenabo to Duntaheen, and he now made an 
expiring effort to reach the earths at Grange. The farm-house in which the old 
huntsman spent his declining hours was in sight, and methought a faint view- 



112 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

halloo ! was borne on the breeze, as riding close with the hounds I thought of the 
days of other years. Whether there was a cheer or not, I gave one that made the 
air ring again, for the hounds were obviously closing on the fox as he made for the 
river once more. 

" PART HI. — THE HUNTSMAN'S END. 
' Huntsman rest — thy chase is done." W. Scott. 

" The fox soon began to run short and dodge, by which I perceived that Atropus 
was preparing her scissors to clip the thread of life. Slowly, however, he wended 
his way ; sometimes being unable to jump the fence, and more than once running 
along the head-ridge until he came to a gate, which he crawled through. The hounds 
were running into him, but he reached the bank first, and, urged by dire necessity, 
trusted to the current, which bore him to the other side ; he scrambled up, and we 
followed in a few moments after. Now an event took place of a novel occurrence, 
which will live in the recollection of all who witnessed it. The farm-house already 
alluded to was directly in the line the chase had taken, and the hounds hunted the 
fox into the very yard. They did not stop there. When I came up a singular 
scene presented itself. There was an old outhouse for fuel and farming implements 
close by the dwelling, and connected with it ; on the roof about a dozen couple had 
climbed, and one by one were leaping through a small window opening from the 
dwelling-house, a pane of which was broken. War to the knife was going on 
within, for the uproar was prodigious — the yelping of dogs, and the snarling and 
growling of animals over their meal, mixed with the screeching of pain and the 
peculiar bark of the fox in his agony. The sounds were not confined to the 
requiem sung by the hounds over their prostrate victim. The ' Who-whoop ! ' of 
a well-known voice greeted mine ear. Throwing myself off, and leaving my 
horse to enter the open stable — for the men were all scattered to view the 
hunt — I rushed up to the loft. Mercy, what a sight was there! In the very 
middle of the floor were the hounds worrying the fox, snarling and tearing his 
mangled remains to pieces, while poor Davy, who had got out of his bed, had a 
hold of the brush, and with his puny strength was engaged in taking the trophy. 
The hounds having broken their hold as I entered, left the prize in the huntsman's 
grasp, and waving it over his head with an air of indescribable triumph, he tried 
to vociferate ' Who-whoop ! ' but the death rattle seized his throat ere he could 
articulate, and he fell dead to the ground in the very middle of the entire pack. A 
few slashes of the whip cleared the room of their presence, and still holding the brush 
firmly in his lifeless grasp, I placed on the bed the body of the old huntsman. 
Several brother sportsmen now came up, and the women employed on the farm, 
who lamented the dead with loud wailings — I directed that all things necessary for 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



113 



his wake should be instantly sent for to Ferrnoy, and his burial suitable to the esti- 
mation with which I regarded my faithful old follower. The fox's pate to be nailed 
on the coffin, and the brush to remain in his hand, so no mistake might exist, that 
as the life of the deceased had been spent in hunting, his favourite sport witnessed 
the < Huntsman's End.' " 

The splendid demesne now opening before us, and embracing both sides of the 
river, spreading its dark glades of forest trees to the summits of the gentle hills, is 
Castle Hyde, the noble seat of John Hyde, Esq. This place was anciently called 
Carrig-a-neady, or the Rock of the Shield ; and the remains of an old castle of 
the Condons, clad in a rich mantle of ivy, still rears its venerable head, amid the 
environing trees. The ancestor of the present proprietor, Sir Arthur Hyde, ob- 
tained a grant of 6000 acres of the land forfeited by the Earl of Desmond, from 
Queen Elizabeth, as a reward for his military services. The entrance is massive 
and unostentatious. Two sphynxes, richly sculptured, repose on the piers. The 
avenue, which is very spacious, leads down a hill towards the river, but suddenly 
bending to the east, opens a view of calm and tranquil beauty. In front the dark 
river rolls its noiseless course, gently — as if it feared to wake the slumber of the 




wide old woods. A verdant lawn carpets the land to the river's brim, and stretches 
up the rising ground opposite. The house fronts the river, and its central portion 



1 14 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

is supported on each side by wings, of architecture simple yet substantial ; the 
entire, as seen in the sketch, presenting an air of dignified propriety of building, 
better according to the stately trees, and solitary grandeur of the place, than a 
more elaborately designed mansion. Further down in the distance, the river is lost 
among knotted stumps and twisting boughs, overarching its flood, and forming a 
superb vista. This portion would be quite a study for an artist curious in light 
and shade, as the water, like a mirror, reflects objects with extraordinary distinct- 
ness. From the bank opposite a long range of highlands uprear their fertile 
bosoms, from which numberless clumps of trees grow in every variety of grouping. 
Beneath their majestic shade repose the antlered herd, meet habitants for such a 
spot. The gardens, north of the house, are very extensive, and well planned. 
The drive to the back entrance, by the brink of the river, is very picturesque. 
Castle Hyde church is within the precincts of the demesne, also approached from 
the Mallow road, and presents a handsome Gothic building. The interior is 
tasteful, and suitably ornamented, being richly groined and stuccoed. A stained 
glass window gives a gorgeous and brilliant light to the aisle. The pews and 
gallery of oak were the produce of the estate. The surrounding grave-yard pos- 
sesses many tributes of the affection which the living bear those who are gone a 
little before us to that promised land where the " wicked cease from troubling and 
the weary are at rest." 

HYDE, OF CASTLE HYDE. 

The Hydes, of Castle Hyde, are a branch of a family of that name in Berkshire. 
The present proprietor, John Hyde, Esq., is the eldest son of the late John Hyde, 
Esq., of Castle Hyde, and Elizabeth, second daughter of Cornelius O'Callaghan, 
Lord Lismore. He and his brother Cornelius are unmarried. Sarah, the eldest 
sister, first married the late William Cooke Collis, Esq., J. P., secondly, A. Price, 
Esq. ; Elizabeth married Robert M'Carty, of Carrignavar, Esq. The family of 
Hyde, of Castle Hyde, is perhaps more nobly connected than any other out of 
the peerage. 

The father of the present owner of this picturesque seat did good service to the 
agricultural improvement of this part of the country. The following merited 
tribute to his exertions contains excellent practical advice : — " Mr. Hyde's cha- 
racter stands very high in the class of modern and improved agriculturists. He 
has taken pains to procure and try every kind of implement, and contributed 
much to the introduction of a better style of farming into the neighbourhood. The 
Devon breed of cattle have been found very thrifty, and excellent milkers. His 
farm-yard is very large and commodious, and he practises stall-feeding, chiefly 
with turnips. Indeed, there is hardly any kind of management which he has not 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 115 



tried, laying aside such as proved too troublesome and complicated, and adhering 
to modes of more general use, and more convenient facility. Our young men of 
fortune, who turn their attention to agriculture, are often induced to despise rather 
rashly the simplicity of ancient practice, and to introduce, too suddenly, the use of 
expensive and complicated machinery, adapted perhaps to the circumstances of a 
country where labour is very dear and art far advanced, but practicable in few 
places here, and hardly applicable to any. To these innovations they are led by 
the perusal of books on farming, replete with imposing statements and calculations 
of extraordinary profit, easily made upon paper, but not, I fear, always to be de- 
pended on." — Survey of Cork, by Rev. Horatio Townsend. Now, I submit, the 
mischief does not rest here. One very unfortunate result follows : a general 
scepticism in every work on agriculture is produced, and our Irish farmers cannot 
be persuaded to follow any advice, or adopt any system, recommended by works, 
no matter how high the character of the author for practical experience. I have 
humbly suggested a remedy in another place — agricultural model schools, on each 
large estate. The following quotation from the lyric productions of an itinerant 
bard, who it appears was ignorant or mindless of the maxim, Ne sutor ultra cre- 
pidam, recounts some of the singular attractions of this lovely spot : — 

" The bees perfuming the fields with music, 

As you rove down by the Blackwater side ; 
The trout and salmon play at backgammon, 
All to adorn sweet Castle Hyde." 

There is an anecdote related of the late John Hyde, Esq., father of the present 
proprietor, which bespeaks great personal courage and firmness. While walking 
through the grounds of Creg, where he resided during the dreaded year '98, he 
approached the wall forming the limit of the demesne, on the road leading from 
Ballyhooly to Fermoy. Voices were heard outside the wall, although the hour 
was past when by martial law all should be within their dwellings, under penalty 
of transportation. " These cannot be proper characters," thought Mr. Hyde, silently 
drawing near the spot where they stood. The wall is not high inside, but, 
owing to the road outside descending a hill to Templenoe, presents a fall of about 
ten feet. The projecting boughs of venerable trees screened Mr. Hyde ; and he 
perceived underneath, close to the wall, a man addressing some others, and on 
listening attentively, was horrified on overhearing his own murder planned. His 
mind was roused to intense excitement ; and observing the speaker to be a slight 
young man, within reach, stretched forth his arm, caught the man by the collar 
of his coat, and, by a vigorous pull, drew him over the wall. His companions, 
seeing him suddenly ascend, cried out the fairies had taken him off, and they ran away. 
The shouts of the fellow alarmed Mr. Hyde's servants, and they beheld the daring 



116 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



ruffian a captive in their master's power. He was lodged in Fermoy that night, 
and finally expiated his crime in exile. No clue to his companions were discovered. 

Adjoining the grounds of Castle Hyde are those of Creg, the residence of Mr. 
Hyde's aunt, relict of the late Colonel Stewart. The house, though ancient, is a 
very comfortable and spacious one : the gardens are kept in most excellent order. 
A fine castle, in good preservation, is 
boldly situated on a rocky eminence over 
the river ; and some rustic cottages, 
placed in romantic sites, afford charming 
retreats for the heated or weary. This 
castle formerly belonged to the Condons, 
and I understand was occupied by sol- 
diers in 1798. The entrance is protected 
by an iron-barred doorway, said to have 
been the original gate of the castle. 
Opposite is Creg Cottage, the pleasantly ; 
situated residence of the Rev. J. Adams, 
commanding a charming view of the 
river. Near this, on the south bank, is " 
the country-seat of John Carey, Esq., 
called South Creg ; and directly facing 
it, on the north, lies Templenoe, resi- 
dence of Lane Hyde, Esq. After pass- 
ing some comfortable farm-houses, we 

behold the churchyard of Killatty, occupying the height on the north bank. Op- 
posite is Gurteen, the beautifully located residence of the Campion family, com- 
manding on the one side a view of the river as far as Creg Castle, and Ballyhooly 
on the other ; and near it is Millvale. 

Ballyhooly Castle forms a striking feature as we move up the river. It is 
commandingly situate on a lofty ledge of rocks, and the tall Norman towers fling 
their broad shadows across the water. Near it are the ivy-clad remains of a 
chapel, probably the place of worship belonging to the castle, for I could discover 
no trace of any such monastery in " Archdall's Monasticon." Around are humble 
gravestones, which, 




" With uncouth rhyme, and shapeless sculpture deck'd, 
Invoke the passing tribute of a sigh." 



The village of Ballyhooly lies a little to the north of the ruins. Opposite, on the 
south bank, stretch a long range of hills, thickly wooded, called Nagle's Mountains. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



117 



This castle of Ballyhooly was one of the numerous castles of the Roches, and 
came, by their forfeiture, into the possession of Sir Richard Aldworth. It forms, 




with the neighbouring ruined church, a most interesting object when seen from 
the adjoining demesne of the Earl of Listowel. Convamore is a mansion of plain 
appearance, but beautifully situated. The apartments are of good size, and em- 
bellished with many fine paintings, purchased by the father and grandfather of the 
present noble owner. The grounds afford views of surpassing beauty. The en- 
trance is close to the castle, and the avenue leads along the brow of the bank, 
which descends abruptly to the water. Looking back towards the entrance, the 
sight runs along the windings of the river, through rich masses of wood and highly 
cultivated lawn, to the ruins, beautifully grouped, and the fine bridge leading to 
the well-wooded mountains. 

The village is small, consisting of about 100 houses. There is a church and 
chapel, a good national school ; and some of the young men have formed themselves 
into an admirable band, under the patronage of the Earl of Listowel and his ex- 
cellent lady. The numerous works of charity and beneficence of this truly amiable 
noble pair have deservedly acquired for them and their family the fervent gratitude 
of the neighbouring poor : si sic omnes ! In the demesne of Convamore is a 
spring impregnated with carbonate of lime. 

About half a mile west is Rinny, the property of Henry Smyth, Esq. J. P. It 
formerly belonged to the Rev. C. Wallis ; and close to the house are the ruins of 



118 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



an old castle of the Fitzgeralds. This was part of Spenser's estate in this country ; 
and a very old oak tree still throws its branches over the river, called Spenser's Oak, 




under which he is said to have written part of the Faery Queen, 
celebrated most of the Irish rivers in that poem : — 

" Ne thence the Irish rivers absent were, 

Sith no less famous than the rest they bee, 
And join in neighbourhood of kingdom near, 

Why should they not likewise in love agree ; 
And joy, likewise, this solemne day to see ? 

They saw it all, and present were in place ; 
Though I them all, according their degree 

Cannot recount, nor tell their hidden race, 
Nor read the salvage countries through which they pass. 

" There was the Liffey rolling down the lea ; 

The sandy Slane, the stony Au-brian ; 
The spacious Shenan, spreading like a sea ; 

The pleasant Boyne — the fishy, fruitful Ban. 
Swift Auniduff, which of the Englishman 

Is called Blackwater, and the Liffar deep, 
Sad Trowis, that once his people overran ; 

Strong Alio tumbling from Slew-logher steep, 
And Mulla mine, whose waves I whilom taught to weep." 



Certainly, he 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 119 

There is an ancient grant or demise of these lands recited as Spenser's Castle of 
Rinny, conveying them free from " coyne and livery." Some account of this 
custom is subjoined. By the fourth article of the synod of Cashel, it is provided, 
" That all the church lands and pensions of the clergy throughout Ireland shall 
be free from all secular exactions and impositions ; and especially that no lords, 
earls, or noblemen, or their children or family, shall henceforth take or extort any 
coin or livery, cosheries or cuddies, or any such like custom from henceforth, in or 
upon any of the church lands ; and likewise that they, nor any other person, do 
henceforth extort out of any other of the lands that old wicked and detestable 
custom aforesaid, which they were used to extort out of such towns and villages of 
the churches as were near and next bordering upon them." 

In the note to page 153. of Mr. D' Alton's valuable History of Drogheda, vol. ii., 
the following account of this malpractice is given by that most accurate and 
erudite writer : — " Coign and livery was one of the most mischievous of the Irish 
customs ; it consisted in levying provisions for man and horse, and likewise money, 
from all the inhabitants of the country, at the pleasure of the soldiery, who, 
amongst the Irish, received no other pay or purveyance ; but when the English 
introduced it, they, as Sir John Davis describes, ' used it with more insolency, and 
made it more intolerable ; for this oppression was not temporary or limited either 
in time or place, but because there was every where a continual war, either 
offensive or defensive, and every lord of a country, and every marcher, made war 
and peace at his pleasure, it became universal and perpetual, and was indeed the 
most heavy oppression that ever was used in any Christian or heathen kingdom. . . . 
It did produce two notorious effects : first, it made the land waste ; next, it made 
the people idle, for when the husbandman had laboured all the year, the soldier, in 
one night, did consume the fruit of all his labour ; ... so as this extreme extortion 
hath been the true cause of the idleness of this Irish nation, and that rather the 
vulgar sort have chosen to be beggars in foreign countries than to manure their 
own fruitful land at home.'" There is no doubt but at present the people have 
but little encouragement to till " their own fruitful land at home ;" for the present 
system of tenure acts like the soldier noticed by Sir John Davis, if a poor man 
reclaims a patch of barren land, he is forced to pay a high rent the moment it 
begins to yield him some return for his labour, and from the vast competition 
for land in every part of Ireland, he is obliged to accede to any terms or he 
will be ejected. It is hoped some good result will follow from the Landlord and 
Tenant Commission now sitting ; and, from the selection of the Commissioners, 
every expectation of some equitable adjustment is fairly held out. The legislature 
would confer a great protection on tenants of small holdings, by exempting the 
instruments under which they hold from the operation of the stamp act, which at 



120 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

present prevents their admissibility as evidence unless duly stamped. This has 
been recommended by an eminent Assistant Barrister. 

The seat of Rinny was not the principal residence of Edmund Spenser, who chiefly 
resided about fifteen miles north-west, near Buttevant, in Kilcolman Castle. This 
distinguished writer came to this country in 1580, in the capacity of secretary to 
Lord Grey of Wilton, then lord-deputy for Queen Elizabeth. He soon com- 
menced his beautiful work, The Faerie Queen, which, in the words of a truly 
competent judge, " entirely removes us from the actual material world ; and instead 
of its noisy clamour and mournful realities, presents us with visions of peaceful 
and tranquil beauty, and the lavish treasures of an imagination that appears inex- 
haustible." The following sonnet is supposed to have been the dedication of the 
first book of the poem to his patron. It is addressed — 

" To the most renowned and valiant lord, the Lord Grey of Wilton, knight of 
the most noble order of the garter, &c. 

" Most noble Lord, the pillar of my life, 

And patron of my Muse's pupillage ; 
Through whose large bountie, poured on me rife 

In the first season of my feeble age, 
I now doe live, bound yours by vassalage 

(Sith nothing ever may redeeme nor reave 
But of your endlesse debt, so sure a gage) ; 

Vouchsafe, in worth, this small guift to receave, 
Which in your noble hands for pledge I leave 

Of all the rest that I am tyde t' account. 
Rude rymes, the which a rustick Muse did weave 

In salvage soyle, far from Parnasso mount, 
And roughly wrought in an unlearned loome, 
The which vouchsafe, dear Lord, your favourable doome." 

When the first three books of the Faerie Queen were ready for print, they were 
addressed, by a glowing dedication, to Elizabeth, and an introductory epistle to Sir 
Walter Raleigh. It had many recommendations beside its great poetical merit. 
The temper of the age permitted the exercise of flattery and adulation, and Spenser 
used a reasonable share of both, and in his allegorical guise introduced all the 
remarkable personages of the court, from the queen, " Great Gloriana," down- 
wards. But " Oh, that mine enemy would write a book ! " The first efforts of 
genius fared no better with Edmund Spenser than any other hapless poet, before 
or since. His friend Lord Grey was out of favour. The iron rule to which the 
Irish were subjected during his viceroy alty, was detailed to his disadvantage by 
his enemies in England. He was accused of punishing with death those whom he 
only suspected, and against whom no proof of guilt was adduced, and the Queen 
ordered the recall of the lord-deputy ere he completed his second year of mis- 



TO THE RIVER BLACK WATER. 121 

government. Spenser was obliged to taste of the bitter chalice, which it is too 
often the lot of unaided talent to drain. Seeing the weak and contemptible trifler 
advanced to offices of trust and emolument, while, with abilities immeasurably 
superior, the man of talent is left unknown and unnoticed, when lacking daily bread, 
is hard to bear. Such Spenser thus deplores : — 

" Most miserable man, whom wicked fate 
Hath brought to court, to sue for hard ywist, 
That few have found, and mannie one hath mist ! 
Full little knowest thou, that hast not tried 
What hell it is, in suing long to bide : 
To lose good dayes, that might be better spent ; 
To waste long nights in pensive discontent ; 
To speed to-day, to be put back to-morrow ; 
To feed on hope, to pine with fear and sorrow ; 
To have thy prince's grace, yet want her peeres ; 
To have thy asking, yet wait mannie yeares ; 
To fret thy soule with crosses and with cares ; 
To eat thy heart through confortless despairs ; 
To fawne, to crowche, to wait, to ride, to ronne, 
To spend, to give, to want, to be undonne. 
Unhappy wight, born to disastrous end, 
That doth his life in so long tendance spend!" 

It appears from some statements, that the necessities of the poet being- 
represented to Elizabeth, she desired her treasurer, Lord Burleigh, to "give 
him what is reason ;" but he being a close-fisted fellow, with no soul for poetry, 
took no notice of the Queen's message. Despairing of any aid from the royal 
bounty, Spenser sought to recover his manuscript, and with a like success. He 
tried an epigram to the Queen : — 

" I was promised on a time 
Some reason for my rhyme : 
From that time to this season 
/ neither had rhyme nor reason." 

This was somewhat productive, and led the way to better. A pension of 501. 
a year from the royal purse was settled on the poet, and in 1586, the forfeited 
estates of the Earl of Desmond, extending 160 miles in the south of Ireland, enabled 
the undertakers of the period to provide for their friends. Interest was made by 
the Earl of Leicester, Lord Grey of Wilton, and Sir Philip Sidney, and a grant 
obtained for Edmund Spenser, Esq., of 3028 acres in the northern part of the 
county of Cork. Though not a desirable locality, it was a great boon, and as " beg- 
gars can't be choosers," our poet hailed with delight the long-sighed for haven of 



122 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



independence. Kilcolman Castle was a fortalice of the Earl of Desmond. It was 
surrounded by a vast plain, unenlivened by hamlet or mansion, and, at a great 
distance, girt by a horizon of lofty hills, all of which have been introduced into his 
writings under poetical names. The Ballyhowra hills to the north are the Moun- 
tains of Mole — " Old Father Mole." This name he gives to the hills running along 
the northern and eastern limits of Cork, and dividing that county from Limerick 
and Tipperary. Gualtie More, the highest of the Gualty range, he calls Arlo 
Hill ; doubtless from its vicinity to the Glen of Aherlow, which lies behind it on 
the Tipperary side. 

" Eftsoones the time and place appointed were 

When all, both heavenly powers and earthly wights, 

Before great Nature's presence should appeare 
For triall of their titles and best rights ; 

That was to meet upon the highest heights 
Of Arlo Hill (who knows not Arlo Hill ?) 

That is the highest head in all men's sights 

Of my old Father Mole, whose shepherd's quill 
Renown'd, hath with hymns fit for a rurall skill." 

The following poetical account of this Castle of Kilcolman (which was burned 
by the insurgents during the rebellion of Tyrone in 1597, when Spenser escaped 







with difficulty, appeared in an able article, entitled " Spenser's Irish Residence," 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 123 

in the Dublin University Magazine, November, 1843, written by one of whom the 
inhabitants of the Blackwater banks have just reason to be proud : — 

" Kilcolman Castle is now a ruin, and a fast-perishing one. There are no signs 
about it that any of the things we have been telling once occurred within its walls ; 
the very traces of the fire have been washed out by the elements, and the memo- 
rials of the poet's ruin have passed away along with the tokens of his joy. But 
Mulla flows past it, even as it did then ; and the everlasting hills still keep their 
watch over the stern old building. When we saw it last, we took a sweet pleasure 
in climbing up the slippery stairway of stone, which is yet perfect, and thinking 
that Raleigh and Spenser often went it up and down together. And there was a 
deep-recessed window, with a stone seat on each side, and a view from it of a 
far-spreading tract of champaign country, and we pictured for ourselves the poet 
(as old Aubrey in his Lives has painted him), a little man, wearing short hair, with 
laced shirt collar and cuffs, seated on one of those chairs, and opposite him his 
Elizabeth, with those fayre golden tresses he so much loved. It was a lovely 
evening in the autumn of the year, and the sun was now westering his course 
towards the remote hills ; and that young couple sat there, watching with unspeak- 
ing rapture the magnificent sun's going down ; and the declining rays glistened 
on the surface of a small calm lake near them, and farther off were multiplied in 
the waters of a winding river, which sparkled in them like burnished steel or 
silver. Then, like a thick black curtain, darkness was slowly drawn over their 
prospect, and after a little while were heard tones of the evening hymn, and a low 
calm voice pleaded humbly in prayer, and soon after all sounds ceased, and the 
inmates of the castle were hushed in repose : then succeeded an hour or two of 
stillness, and after that was borne to us on the night wind the tramp of a thousand 
feet ; and louder they grew and yet louder, and they draw near that lonely building. 
And rude knocking was heard at its gate ; and the passage was forced in ; and 
lights flared up on all sides ; and there were shrieks and groans, and commingling 
cries of men engaged in deepest battle. And savage numbers prevailed, and the 
application for mercy was met by the sweep of the broadsword, or the thrust of 
the skean, or the low short laugh of derision. And the tumult grew less, and 
the cries died away, and then all was hushed in the silence of death. 

" Then we had a vision of a rough and stormy ocean, and a struggling bark 
was wildly contending on it with the mad tempest ; and there were terrified 
fugitives crouching low on her deck, and looking with eager eyes towards a blue 
low-lying shore they were with difficulty approaching. And then the scene 
changed to a plainly furnished room in an inferior street, and the wanderers were 
there and knew of their safety ; but the strong man's cheek was flushed with 
disease, and fever was feeding upon his strength, and his head was sick, and his 
heart was broken. 



124 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

" And then, in a gorgeous aisle of a reverend minster, we saw a crowd assemble, 
and a grave was dug, and a long procession issued from a low arched door near 
at hand, and proceeded towards the grave. And the nobles of the land were 
there ; and poets read their eulogies of the deceased, and cast the verses and the 
pens that indited them into the pit. And then there was the rumbling of earth 
upon the coffin-lid — and the hollow thumping of the sexton's spade — and sup- 
pressed sobs and tears — and the dying away of departing footsteps. Dust and 
ashes ! and our dream is ended." 

We resume our journey along the river; but ere we leave the estate of Spenser, 
let us have another quotation from the Irish Residence : — " Fairest sight in 
creation are these rivers, whether small in their childhood, and found far among 
the mountains ; or in rich manhood, sweeping through the open plains; or joining 
the ocean at last in slow and exhausted old age — lovely are they all at times ! 
And of the hymn of thanksgiving, which nature sends forth from her many-toned 
voice, mounting up to her Creator's throne, the burden is borne by the rivers. 
The songs of the birds may be sweet and powerful, but they are also broken and 
perishing ; taken up of a sudden, and passing away and leaving no trace of their 
being ; but the anthem notes of the streams are everlasting. They were listened 
to six thousand years ago by the world's grey fathers, and on — on — on ever since 
has that voice of praise been continually murmuring. The former are types of 
the adoration of man ; but the latter image forth the choral strains of heaven. 

" And poets have all loved the rivers ! Need we mention the banks of the 
Doon, or the braes of Yarrow, or the lovely retirements of the Duddon ? And 
here are the streams by which Edmund Spenser walked with all his glory, dream- 
ing bright dreams of hope and blessing, and murmuring as he walked their margin 
to music sweeter than their own." 

We now behold the favourite stream of the poet — " Mulla fair and bright." 
Close to Rinny the winding Awbeg falls into the Blackwater, and in a fertile 
valley at the confluence is seated the venerable abbey of Ballynadroghid or 
Bridgetown, so called from two bridges that formerly crossed the river in its 
neighbourhood. Of these bridges every vestige has disappeared, and the road 
from Mallow to Fermoy now traverses the Awbeg further up its banks, so that the 
situation of the abbey is much more secluded at present than at the period when 
it flourished.* 

It lies secluded — apart from the prying eyes of the vulgar wayfarer — and the 
traveller must leave the direct road to Mallow, and diverge for a quarter of a mile 
by the bank of the Awbeg, to follow the fallen fortunes of the monastic pile. It 



* N^wenham's Antiquities of Ireland. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



125 



lies low, near the river side ; and the gentle chafing of the ripples against the 




pebbly beach falls musically on the ear. The ruins are very ancient, and ex- 
tensive. 

" Cyprus and ivy, weed and wallflower grown, 

Matted and massed together — hillocks heap'd 
O'er what were chambers — archcrush'd columns strewn 

In subterranean damps, where the owl peep'd, . 
Deeming it midnight." 

The accompanying view of the interior will give some idea of this sacred 
edifice. It was founded, says Archdall*, in the reign of King John, by Alexander 
Fitzhugh Roche, dedicated to the blessed Virgin Mary, and supplied with canons 
regular from the priory of Newtown, in the county of Meath, and the abbey of 
St. Thomas, in Dublin. King Edward I. confirmed this endowment, and the 
Roche family added considerably to the possessions of the foundation. Thomas, 
prior of this abbey, was one of the persons elected according to the writ of 
Edward III. in 1375, by which that monarch required the bishops and commons 



* Monasticon Hib. 57. 



126 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



to elect chosen persons, who were immediately to repair to England, there to 
treat, consult, and agree with his Majesty and council, as well touching the go- 
vernment of this kingdom, as for the aid and support of the war his Majesty was 
then engaged in.* 

The remains of the spacious monastery consist of portion of the chapel, re- 
fectory, and cloisters. The masonry is strong. 

" Of a rich and rare 
Mix'd Gothic, such as artists all allow 

Few specimens yet left us can compare 
Withal." 

Close to the high altar is a monument, supposed to be that of the founder, from a 




rude carving of an inverted shield, charged with one fish. The present arms of 
the Roche family are three fishes. The tomb has no inscription. 

Mr. Crofton Croker, speaking of this monument, in his " Researches in the 
South of Ireland," remarks, " The extreme wildness of construction of this arch 



Aytoff's Ancient Charters, 452. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 127 



is remarkable, the termination of one side being square and massive, the other 
slight and sharp. Irregularity seems to have been the designer's chief object, and 
yet an uniformity of effect is preserved. About the middle of the corner moulding, 
on the altar side, a head, in high relief, is most unaccountably placed, without 
any thing similar to correspond as a balance." In a small chapel adjoining is a 
tomb, inscribed, Theobald Roche, 1634, and around are strewn several curiously 
sculptured gravestones. Mr. Croker, in the work referred to, gives drawings of 
several of these ancient gravestones. 

The magnificent ruins which every where remain of buildings consecrated to 
religion, attest the piety and refinement of our ancestors. The change in the 
mode of building houses of worship suitable to the great Being whom they adored, 
from the rude and unarchitectural edifices in which they were accustomed to 
worship, has been ascribed with much reason to the missionaries from the Con- 
tinent. In a work already quoted * we learn, in architecture as in letters, the first 
impulse was given by St. Augustin and his companions, who substituted a rough 
but solid masonry for the walls of mud or timber, the only materials first used. 
But still there was no very great advance until the pilgrims, in their frequent 
visits to the tombs of the apostles, had become impressed with the miserable in- 
feriority of their own churches, whose whitewashed walls, and windows without 
glass, had before excited their admiration. Successive pilgrims brought back 
chalices, sacred utensils, vestments, and ornaments for the altar, besides statues 
and pictures to adorn the temples, which the observation of the Roman and Con- 
tinental structures enabled them to erect. In these they exhibited to their 
admiring countrymen all the wonders of cut-stone walls and towers, lead roofs 
and glass windows, and not the least attractive were the creations of Italian pencil 
and Greek chisel. With these they adorned the sacred edifice, " that all who 
entered therein — even the illiterate," to use St. Bennett's own words, "might be 
led to salutary reflections by the sight of the Saviour's image, and those of his 
saints — by the scene of his nativity — of the last judgment — or by the other 
sacred subjects which meet their gaze, to whatsoever side they turn." 

At a short distance — about a mile and a half — pursuing the course of the 
Awbeg, as it winds through a steep and rocky glen, is Castletown Roche, which 
deserves some notice in our Historial Guide. 

The town, or perhaps, more strictly speaking, village, is romantically situated 
upon the side of a sloping hill, with the river at its base, and woods surmounted 
" by a tiara of proud towers " above. The river is — the Awbeg — 

" Mulla mine — whose waves I whilom taught to weep. " 



Rome as it was under Paganism, and as it became under the Popes. 



128 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

On a gentle mount near the bridge is the pretty church. A stone which is im- 
bedded in the wall bears the following inscription, which was so plain as to 
permit my deciphering it readily : — 

Orate 
Pro bono statu 
Domini Maurici 
Roche Viceco- 
mes de Fermoy et 
Domine Elinorie 
Maurici et 
Pro Anima ejus, 
Anno Domini 1585. 

The Catholic chapel is higher* in the town. The castle is a spacious building, 
lately repaired, and added to by its present owner, Henry Mitchell Smyth, Esq., 
brother to Richard Smyth, of Ballinatra, Esq. This was formerly the chief seat 
of the Lords Roche. The loyalty of the head of the family being suspected, in Queen 
Elizabeth's reign, instructions were sent to Sir Walter Raleigh, then at Cork, to take 
him prisoner, which duty he performed ; and however we may be disposed to regard 
the means by which it was effected, certainly we cannot refuse some praise for the 
coolness and courage displayed by Raleigh. Advised that Fitzgerald, Seneschal 
of Immokilly, intended to intercept the march, Raleigh collected a small band of 
ninety soldiers, and started so unexpectedly at night, that he escaped any inter- 
ruption, and arrived at Castletown Roche the next morning. The advance of the 
English caused the inhabitants to muster for defence ; but Raleigh avoided blows, 
and requested permission to speak with Lord Roche. He advanced to the castle, 
attended by six men only, and the chieftain, surprised by the visit, received him 
with apparent cordiality. Sir Walter kept him in conversation on various topics, 
while the men who accompanied him contrived to give entrance to all their com- 
rades fully armed, each musket containing two balls. Lord Roche, perceiving his 
castle completely in the hands of the English troops, made a virtue of necessity, 
and, addressing Sir Walter with kindness, ordered refreshments for his men, and 
invited him to dinner. When the repast was concluded, Sir Walter acquainted 
his host with the cause of his coming, and exhibited the warrant for his appre- 
hension. He yielded when he could not resist, and Sir Walter carried him and 
his lady to Cork the same night, which proved dark and stormy, without any 
molestation from the Seneschal of Immokilly. 

Resuming our route by the river, we behold Nagles' mountains raising their 
wooded heads on the south bank. To the north are large limestone rocks, over- 
hanging the flood, and so obstructing the stream in some places, as to render it 
fordable. These give name to a picturesque mansion, surrounded by a tasteful 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 129 



lawn — Clifford, seat of Bart Lloyd, Esq. The house looks remarkably well from 
the river, and is a comfortable dwelling. The following lines are inscribed on 
a tablet in the hall : — 

" Parva domus ! nemorosa quies, 

Sis tu quoque nostris hospitiura laribus 
Subsidium diu : postes tuas Flora ornet 
Pomonaque mensas." 

In a retired rocky glen is a handsome pedestal, bearing an urn of consider- 
able size, completely shaded by trees. It was erected by the late owner of this 
beautiful spot, Richard Martin, Esq., and bears this inscription : — 

" Monumentum hocce 
Diis manibus R. M. posuit. 
a.d. 1790. 

Quisquis hoc sustulerit 
Aut jusserit : ultimus 
Suorum moriatur. 

Linquenda tellus, et domus, et placens 
Uxor : neque harum, quas colis, arborum 
Te, prseter invisas cupressos, 
Ulla brevem dominum sequetur. 

Vivus seu mortaus 

Cor hie quiescit. 

Quiescat ! 

Inveni portum, spes et fortuna valete : 
Sat me lusistis, ludite nunc alios." 

A little higher on the opposite side is a castle, proudly situated on a rock over 
the river, and the wood and water with the venerable towers and modern dwelling- 
near, form a fine contrast to the barren mountain in the background. This 
is the castle of Carrignaconny, and the seat of Henry B. Foot, Esq., formerly 
the residence of Sir Richard Nagle, attorney-general to King James II., and 
Speaker of the House of Commons. 

On the north bank we behold a strong-built tower in fine preservation: Monaminy 
Castle, a preceptory belonging to the knights of St. John of Jerusalem, now the 
comfortable residence of William Barry, Esq. This must have been an extensive 
building in former days, as traces of very large edifices are observable round the 
castle. It is, as Doctor Smith, in his History of Cork, justly observes, " augustly 
situated : " built on a steep rocky eminence rising from the waters. There being 



130 



HISTORICAL AND I'll Hi;i>oM. < . I 1 1 > I . 



no mention whatever of this house, besides the reference in the royal quit-rent books, 
the founder and time of foundation is unknown. After the suppression of the order 




of Hospitallers, it passed into the Nagle family, rind in the chancel of the ruined 
church of the Commandery is the tomb of the Nagles. This ancient family, of which 
there are several branches in this country, are said to be principally distinguished 
by the colour of the hair: such as the red Nagles, for those with the hair of the 
family, of the hue delicately termed auburn ; black Nagle, with dark hair. The 
members of this family are of the highest respectability. Sir Richard Nagle, Bart., 
of Jamestown House, Westmeath, is of this stock. His great-grandfather was 
Richard Nagle, Esq., of Mount Nagle, Cork. The eldest son of Edmund 
Spenser the poet, named Sylvanus, married Ellen Nagle, eldest daughter of David 
Nagle, of Monaminy ; the issue of this marriage was two sons, Edmund and Wil- 
liam Spenser. Kilcolman, never having been rebuilt after the death of Spenser 
the poet, his descendants resided at Rinny, where 1 was informed the last met his 
death in a tragical manner. He had contracted an intimacy with his housekeeper, 
from which she inferred he meant to marry her ; great, therefore, was her disap- 
pointment to learn, from a letter he received and which she had access to in her 
master's absence, that he was about being united to a lady in the neighbourhood. 
Jealousy, that fierce passion whether in male or female breast, fired her mind ; 
she resolved to interpose a bloody deed between the bans and the nuptials. From 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 131 

some nervousness or inability on the part of Spenser, he could not denude himself 
of the hirsute appendage called beard, and this woman used to shave him. On the 
day of his bridal he dressed himself with peculiar care, and as usual submitted to 
the hands of his female barber : she cut more than his beard that day, for she cut 
his throat, and in the small antique dwelling at Rinny is pointed out the room in 
which she did the deed. 

Edmund Burke spent a considerable portion of his youth in this part of the 
country, and was a constant guest at Mr. Nagle's. There is another branch of 
this house residing at Ballinamona Castle, in the neighbourhood of Doneraile. 
The head of this family is Garret Nagle, Esq., J. P. 

A strong stone bridge below Monaminy Castle leads to Killevullen, a pretty 
village on the Mallow road. At the south end of the bridge, large limestone rocks 
descend from a great height into the water ; some large caverns are observable in 
their sides. An excellent mansion is built on the summit, called the Rock or Bally- 
macmoy House. It has a spacious lawn in front, ornamented with trees and flower- 
gardens. This picturesque mansion is the property of James Hennessy, Esq. ; and 
during his residence in France, was occupied by Mrs. O'Geran, who kept the 
grounds and flower-gardens models of taste and horticultural perfection. A short 
distance north is Ballygriffin, a pretty cottage of J. Creagh, Esq. Near this is Kil- 
lura, the seat of the late Cornelius Linehan, Esq., now the property of Mrs. O'Geran. 
In front of the house is a venerable tree, or rather group of trees, for there are 
three distinct trunks, whether growing from one or more roots I cannot say ; 
this is called St. Cranith's tree. Mrs. Linehan, whose name previously to her 
marriage was Sarsfield, a descendant of the Great Earl of Lucan, had a taste- 
fully arranged flower-garden at the feet of those aged foresters. The view from 
the house is beautiful. There is a finely wooded glen at Killura ; a favourite fox 
covert for the hunters of Duhallow. To the west is Castle Kiflin, formerly a seat 
of the Roches, now the property of B. Thornhill, Esq. 

On the south bank, about a mile from Killevullen, at a place called Rahan, is a 
remarkable cave. The entrance is about twenty feet high, and from eighteen to 
twenty feet wide. It runs to a great distance underground, and is said to be 
crossed by a stream of water much further in than is easily reached by visiters. 
There are a variety of legends related about it. One mentions that the fame of a 
piper of this district reached the ears of the fairy king, who, finding the musician 
asleep at the mouth of the cave, brought him across the subterranean river, and 
he has never returned, though he is often heard inside, especially on stormy nights, 
filling the cave with music. Near this is Ballymacmoy, the property of Mrs. Carey, 
now occupied by Mr. Going Lane. Rockforest, on the south bank, is a noble place ; 
the house very extensive, but much out of repair. The present proprietor, Sir 
James Cotter, Bart., is a minor, born 1828 : he is the fourth baronet, and succeeded 



132 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



his father in 1834. Sir James Cotter, the first baronet, came to the title in 1763. 
The demesne is finely planted, and commands a charming view of the river, with 
the splendid scenery of Carrig on the opposite bank. The country people say 
crows never fly over or build nests on this estate ever since it was possessed by one 
of the regicides of Charles I., meaning, I presume, Ludlow, whose daughter mar- 
ried Sir John Rogerson, chief justice : the daughter of this couple married Sir 
James Cotter. The seat opposite is Carrig, belonging to W. Franks, Esq. ; a 
good house beautifully situated, and its waving woods and castled crag, with 
the broad river flowing beneath, present a picturesque scene. This was anciently 
called Carrig-lem-Leary, or the rock of Leary's leap. 

Higher up is Carrigoon House, the seat of Charles Curtin. Esq. M. D. A fine 




old house. James II. had a garrison here, and on the other side, at Ballymagooly, 
were the English quartered. The relief of this last-named garrison, when be- 
leagured, occasioned a battle at Bottle Hill, between Cork and Mallow ; the river 
formed the boundary between the adverse troops. Ballymagooly now boasts a 
handsome dwelling, seat of John Courtenay, Esq., an ardent sportsman, who has a 
considerable property in this county. 

The proximity of the rival garrisons occasionally led to feats of valour on both 
sides. One anecdote will illustrate the arts employed to molest the enemy : — 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 133 

One evening an Irish soldier with a light having approached a window that 
overlooked the river, attracted the watchful attention of an English sharpshooter, 
who resolved to take advantage of the opportunity to try his hand. Taking careful 
aim at the light opposite, he fired, and struck it out in the hand of the Irish 
soldier. " Be St. Patrick, but that's close shaving any how," quoth Pat ; " I owe 
you one for that, but you shall have another, and we'll try who shoots best." So 
he relit the extinguished taper, which he fixed to the end of a ramrod, and put in 
one window, while he took his station at another open one, his gun cocked and the 
stock to his shoulder. Presently the fire flashed from the English garrison as the 
soldier tried his second shot. It was his last. Pat aimed steadily at the spot 
whence the fire flashed, and a heavy fall announced the shot told. 

The village is situated on the south bank of the river, and consists of a range of 
small houses. Nearer to the river, and occupying the site of the English garrison, 
is Ballymagooly House, seat of John Courtenay, Esq., commanding an enchanting 
view of the river and its exquisitely beautiful banks. The parish church, sur- 
rounded by clumps of trees and an old churchyard, is adjoining. Near this is 
Rockforest Lodge, seat of Pierce Creagh, Esq. The banks of the north side, after 
leaving Carrigoon, are well wooded. We see a neat house belonging to Mr. Col- 
lins, and, at some distance to the north, is Anikisha, a seat of the Nagles. The 
extensive demesne of Sir Denham Jephson Norreys now spreads itself before us, 
and at the south the woods surrounding the mansion of the Lombard family reach 
to the water's edge ; and the venerable walls of Mallow Castle, with the noble 
bridge, announce our proximity to this stirring town. There is a handsome seat 
here of Kilner Brazier, Esq. ; and Beareforest, of Robert De La Cceur, Esq. 

MALLOW AND ITS ENVIRONS. 

Mallow, one of the largest towns in the South of Ireland, is now reached. It 
was anciently called Malla, Moyalla, and Moyallow, whence its present name is 
derived. It was formerly a seignory belonging to the Earl of Desmond, who built 
a fine castle on the north bank of the river, which commanded the pass. On his 
attainder, during the reign of Elizabeth, the castle and manor were granted by 
the queen to Sir John Norris, Lord President of Munster, a.d. 1584. Of this 
great man, who filled the chief office of president in this province after his return 
from settling the crown of Portugal on the house of Braganza, Spenser wrote when 
presenting a copy of his " Faerie Queen : " — 

" Who ever gave more honourable prize 

To the sweet Muse than did the martial crew 
That their brave deeds she might immortalise 
In her shrill troup, and sound their praises due ? 



134 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



Who then ought more to favour her than you, 

Most nohle Lord, the honour of this age, 
And president of all that arms ensue ? 

Whose -warlike powers and manly true courage, 
Temper'd -with reason and advisement sage, 

Hath fill'd sad Belgia with victorious spoil — 
In France and Ireland left a famous gage ; 

And lately shak't the Lusitanian soil ; 
Sith then each where thou hast dispread thy fame, 
Love him that thus hath eternised your name." 



Lord Strangford inscribed his translation of Camoens to the late Mr. Jephson, 
his kinsman, member for Mallow. The daughter and heiress of Sir John Norris 
married Major- General Sir John Jephson, of Froyle, Hants, on which occasion 
the estate came into the present family. It appears there were two castles at this 




time, one called, par excellence, " the Castle," the other " Castle Garr," or the 
Short Castle, thus described in the patent, dated August 21. Anno Angliae x. and 
Scotiae xxi., Jacobus I. This was about 1615. This patent grants to Dame 
Elizabeth Jephson, and her heirs, in consideration of 50/. paid by Sir John 
Jephson, Knight, the castle, manor, and town of Mallow, the Short Castle, alias 



TO THE RIVER BLACK WATER. 135 



Castle-Garr, the fishing of the river Awmore *, &c, in as ample a manner as the 
Crown ought to enjoy the same, by purchase, or by the attainder of Gerald, Earl 
of Desmond, to hold the same of the Castle of Carigronshan, Cork, in free and 
common soccage, paying for the earl's beeves 61. 13s. 4d., and for all the other 
premises 44Z. 85. I0±d., at the feast of the Annunciation and St. Michael. The 
patent further grants leave to hold a court baron, pleas to the value of 40s., to 
export corn, duty free, license tradesmen, hold fairs and a market, and appoint a 
market-clerk. There were other and further privileges conferred by patent, 
passed by virtue of a writ of privy seal, dated 18th July, 1631, 6 Carol. 1. 

In 1641 the town was of considerable size. It consisted of 200 houses, occupied 
by English settlers, thirty of which were strongly built and slated. On the 
occasion of the insurrectioc of that period, the Lord Mountgarret marched with 
the Irish forces against the town ; the castle was then committed by its owner, 
Captain Jephson, to the charge of Arthur Bettesworth, with a garrison of 200 men, 
and an abundant supply of arms, and three cannons. The Short Castle was also 
defended by Lieutenant Williamson, who, after repeated assaults, and several 
breaches made in the walls, most of his men being slain, was forced to capitulate 
upon terms ; but, finding his opponents not disposed to abide by their agreement, 
he resolutely snatched up a sword, forced his way through them with his remain- 
ing party, and got into the castle still held out by Bettesworth. 

An account of the conduct of these parties towards each other shows the careless 
indifference of the soldiery of both sides, as to whether they drank together or 
fought together. 

After Lieut. Williamson had surrendered the Short Castle, he went into a 
public house, with some of his men and a few of the Irish, to drink. He had not sat 
long, when an Irish officer entered into the room, with another man, who laid down 
a block and a large broad sword ; which apparatus startling Williamson, he asked 
" what they were for ? " He was answered, " to strike off his and his men's heads," 
which was no sooner spoken but Williamson snatched up the sword, with his left 
hand took hold of the Irish officer by the hair, and drew him to the very walls of 
the other castle, not far distant, where he gave him some kicks, and letting him go, 
entered the castle with his men. j 

We do not know which to admire most, the good-fellowship of Williamson 
going to drink with his foes, his bravery in seizing and dragging the officer by the 
hair, or his magnanimity in letting him off with a few kicks. 

While the Irish held possession at Mallow, there arose a contention among them 
about the supreme command of the army. The Lord Roche, and others of Mun- 



Blackwater. f Smith's Cork, vol. i. p. 326. in note. 



136 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

ster, thought they ought to have a general of their own province ; but to avoid 
disputes among the lords, they pitched upon Garret Barry as their general, who had 
long served under the King of Spain, and was reputed to be a good soldier ; Lord 
Muskerry, and other leaders, acting as a council of war. On the 15th February, 
1642, a party of Lord Roche's forces, joined by several of M'Donough's, assailed 
Mr. Clayton's castle, near Mallow, and employed ten masons in making a breach in 
the wall, they having no battering artillery. The garrison made a resolute 
defence. A large barn was set on fire, that the smoke and flame might procure 
the assailants admission : it only assisted the besieged, without doing them any 
injury; for, occurring at night, it threw a bright light over the country outside the 
walls, and every shot from the castle found a victim. It is said that 200 of the 
Irish forces were killed, and 140 wounded. A breach being at length effected, 
the place was carried by storm, and the garrison put to the sword. The castle of 
Mallow was taken in 1645, by the Earl of Castlehaven, and was nearly reduced 
to ruins. It was suffered to remain in this dilapidated state many years ; the first 
attempt to restore it was made in 1666. In a letter dated 3d of April, 1666, 
written by Lord Orrery to the Duke of Ormond, from Charleville, his lordship 
takes notice, " that there was then but one bridge over the Blackwater, winch," 
he says, " is forty miles navigable for boats." This would lead one to suppose that 
the river was used for commercial purposes as far as the place occupied by Fermoy 
at present. " This bridge," continues Lord Orrery, " is at Mallow, where there 
is a, castle of good strength if it had a little reparation, and is one of the greatest 
passes and thoroughfares in this province, and if seized on by any enemy, would, 
in effect, divide the country into two parts." When this kingdom was threatened 
with an invasion from France, the castle was deemed of such importance, com- 
manding the chief pass and only bridge on the Blackwater, that the grand jury of 
the county of Cork presented a sum for the necessary repairs, to put it in a state 
of defence ; but the judge reserved himself from fiating, until he spoke with Lord 
Orrery, the Lord President, and again deferred the affair till he spoke with the 
Lord Lieutenant, the law only allowing presentments for bridges, causeways, high- 
ways, &c. 

The next important event I find in chronological order is the incorporation of 
the town by charter of 29th August, 1688*, granted by James II., appointing 
David Miagh provost, with twenty-six burgesses, and the privilege of sending two 
members to parliament. 

After the defeat of the Irish forces at the Boyne, Major- General Sgravenmore, 

* Dr. Smith, in his Hist, of Cork, gives this as the date of the first charter of incorporation ; 
but Lewis's Top. Die. states (I know not on whose authority), that the town received its first 
charter from James L, in 1612. 



TO THE RIVER BLACK WATER. 137 

having advanced from Tipperary with 1100 horse, and two regiments of Danish foot, 
on 13th September, 1689, sent Col. Doness to destroy the bridge, and reconnoitre 
the castle. The colonel, on his return, reported that 100 Protestant families were 
in the greatest alarm, from M'Donough, one of King James's governors of counties, 
assembling forces for the purpose of plundering the town. On this intelligence, 
100 men, and 50 dragoons, were sent for protection, and M'Donough's troops 
routed with great slaughter. 

The town is situated on the north bank of the Blackwater, in a valley, with a 
chain of hills running north and south, and its environs are well wooded, which 
insures a mild temperature. This genial climate, together with its mineral spa, 
for which it is celebrated, renders Mallow a fashionable resort for invalids. The 
spa springs from a limestone rock not far from the castle, and is not unlike, in its 
properties, to the hot wells of Bristol.* 

The following account of this spa is taken from Dr. Smith's "History of 
Cork," title Mallow Water f : — 

" The first notice of these warm springs is said to have been about sixty years 
ago J; but for want of a certain knowledge of their qualities, they became neglected 
for medicinal use ; yet one has been much longer esteemed as a reputed holy well, 
dedicated to St. Patrick, and was formerly visited as such. The first hint of this 
water being applicable to the cure of diseases was given some years since, by Dr. 
Rogers, of Cork, who came to Mallow to attend a Mrs. Welstead, then in a very 
weak condition ; in particular, she kept no aliment on her stomach, and was so far 
gone that her discovery was despaired of. Upon an accidental trial, she found 
that the water of this spring was the only liquid she retained in her stomach, and 
therefore advised with the doctor as to its use, who, being present when some of 
this water was brought fresh from the well, to his surprise observed it to be very 
warm ; whereupon, to satisfy himself, he went to the spot, and found this same 
quality of heat, in a higher degree. The lady, with the consent of her physician, 
persisted in drinking this water, and was so considerably relieved, that she was 
soon able to go to Cork, when she was so much changed for the better that the 
doctor scarcely knew her again. This, as I am informed, was really what first 
gave credit to the medicinal virtues of this spring, and has occasioned it to be 
frequented every season by a considerable resort of people of fashion, both for 
health and pleasure. There is very little alteration by the thermometer in the 
heat or other quality of this water, in different seasons of the year ; yet in frosty 
weather, and a dry season, it is sensibly warmer, being then less impregnated 
with other water. By repeated trials, I found this water raised the mercury in 



* Smith's Cork, 327. f Vol. ii. 281. t This was written in 1749. 



138 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

Fahrenheit's thermometer to the degree of 69°, the adjoining brook sunk it to 50°. 
Dr. Rutty coming directly from Bristol, and trying the same thermometer in 
Mallow water as he had done in Bristol water, found the mercury in the latter to 
stand at 76°, in the former at 68°, when in the neighbouring cold spring it stood 
at 50°. 

The specific gravity of Mallow water, and that of the river Blackwater, is as 
follows : — 

Grains. 
Mallow water ..... 1-531. 
Blackwater river .... 1-544. 

This water is extremely soft , and, contrary to the nature of the Bristol water, 
with which it almost agrees in every other circumstance, very quickly lathers with 
soap ; so that it was no uncommon thing for people to use this water for washing 
linen without heating it. It is also good for drawing tea : the pipes and inside of 
tea-kettles used in boiling it, are generally found incrusted with a calcareous 
deposit. 

The principal spring is on the north-east of the town, north of the river. Here 
it rises perpendicularly in a strong stream from the rock, at the rate of 1200 
gallons per hour. It has great repute in cases of debilitated constitutions, scrofula, 
and consumption. The spa house is a neat and convenient edifice, in the English 
style of cottage architecture, containing the pump-room, a small apartment for 
medical consultation, a reading-room, and baths. Here may be procured hot or 
cold salt-water, vapour, and medicated baths. It was built by the lord of the 
manor, Sir Denham J. Norreys, Bart. 

The family of Sir Denham Jephson, who assumed, by sign-manual, dated 18th 
July, 1838, the additional surname and arms of Norreys, is of great antiquity, and 
high rank. According to Burke's Peerage, King Henry VIH., by patent dated 
1534, granted the manor of Froyle, in Hants, to William Jephson, Esq. and Mare 
his wife. From them descended Sir John Jephson, of Froyle, a major-general 
and privy-councillor in Ireland. He married Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of 
Sir Thomas Norris, Lord President of Munster ; and the Mallow estate thus came 
into the Jephson family, and to the present talented and accomplished possessor. 
This excellent resident landlord is at present rebuilding his ancestral mansion, a 
sketch of part of which is subjoined. It is the true Elizabethan style, and when 
finished will be one of the finest specimens of that class of architecture in Ireland. 
The interior fully corresponds with the outward appearance. No expense has 
been spared to render it unique, and in perfect accordance with the prevailing 
character of the building. The wide oak staircase, with its massive balustrades 
— the panelled chambers, the deep embayed windows, the subdued light of day 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



139 



dimly stealing through the coloured panes of stained glass, — all bespeak the dwell- 
ing of other days. The drawingrooms are completed, and sumptuous rooms they 




are, richly wainscoted with dark oak, and handsomely furnished. There is a fine 
painting by Sir Godfrey Kneller, representing King William III. in his robes, 
" the gift," Sir Denham Norreys informed me, " of that monarch to one of his 
ancestors." At the opposite end of the apartment, or rather apartments, as they 
open en suite, is a small recess, containing an antique-looking casement. The bla- 
zoned window represents the arms of the Norreys family, and the painting is 
after one which belonged to an ancient residence of theirs in England. The 
demesne is thickly wooded, and abounds with pleasing scenery. There is a 
picturesque -looking cottage, and an agreeable landscape formed by the river, 
bridge, and old castle. The town is very extensive, and a place of great trade. 
There are a number of factories of different kinds, flour mills of Messrs. Brady, 
and Molloy and Co., a brewery, banks, &c. There is a very good hotel, the 
proprietor of which, Mr. Fitzmaurice, is always attentive and obliging. 

The advantages which Mallow possesses in its situation, its inhabitants, chiefly 
comfortable men of business, engaged in a thriving retail trade, having a numerous 
landed proprietary constantly residing in the vicinity, and enjoying much repute 
as a resort for invalids, render it one of the most flourishing towns in Munster ; 
and if its numerous poor had useful employment, would present a far more favour- 
able appearance than when last we cast our eyes opposite Fitzmaurice's hotel, and 
saw, with sorrow, the groups of sturdy peasants waiting to be employed at the 



I 10 



in TOUlGAh '• i' i'i' i i 1:1. ui i. '.i n. I. 




W, 



.I'M... 






pittance oi eightpence a day without dietj and failing to ; m t any work. TIm 
suburbs of Mallow ar< nothing bettei than those of any other town, con I ting o 
dirty narrow Lanes. However considerable improvement in the outlet isprogr* ing 
undercomml ionei elected pui nanttothi provi Ion oftbi Paring and Light inj 
9 Geo i who In a short time, will effect a useful changi in the approaches to tb 
town, [t would be well If a change took place in the dwelling of the labouring cla e 
which are wretched pe 
> i r . ,< n '.i hou < 'i he 
condition of the \>< a am 
inn i b< tnat( ' tally b( I 
tered befon w< can 
expect tu ••''"' '" bl 
dwelling. I Ee mui I feel 
in- and bii family 
cared foi i and thi mm I 
be the landlord' doing 
be would i ii< ii b< gin, i 
am convince <i to '''I i h 
pridi in having bi col 
tagi comfoi table and 

orderly. But it is idle to thinl of having thi don< by talking or writing | < ample 
him i be let The old a lorn M Demomtration i the b< I in tructlon ' mu i be re 
101 U d i" 1 1 i the only mode with the unlearnt d. L< I agricultural model ichool on 
b limited plan i" <i "ii fool and ei what a r< ult will follow. [1 liab urd to ay 
that for every profi ion or trad* instruction must b< had, and non< foi agrieul 
i mm , thai before man can undertake any avocation in llf< be mu I erves long 
and diligent apprentia bip li be expect uccei but he may be a farmer by 
Intuition. That looking at the ground will enable him to let aright and Looking 
at the iky will prevent bit going wrong The inferiority of Irish farming i<> 
English and Scotch, with our advantagi ot oil and climati 1 most unquestionably 
owing i" the little education oui farrai 1 rec< lv< on the rery means of procuring 
their sustenance 1 bey get no advantagi from improvement! ;becau e wedded \>y 
habil and use to the establi bed 13 tern ot cropping ;> n«i preparing land, they 
regard any improvement a a dangerou innovation. Thii can only be set aright 
by education In the agricultural model school, where the improvement may be 
practically t< ted, and it uaefulm clearly demonstrated. Thi 1 a sugg< tion 
which the landlord might rind it their interest to attend to, and the benefit re 
ulting be participated In by themselv* a well a theii tenants. The ground 
would be better and more cleanly cultivate d, no hi adland or patchei suffered i<» 
Hi idle, and more prompt payment of rent neci arily follow. Then we should 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 141 

have the educated farming labourer spending his evening hours in rendering his 
dwelling comfortable, cleaning or perhaps making furniture, protecting his little 
cabbage garden by rustic paling, or, by way of climax, twining honeysuckle round 
his casement windows. 

The affection of the poor for the little spots of land on which they have been 
born and reared is a theme which awakes a thousand sympathies, and with no 
class does it obtain more strongly than my fellow-countrymen. The love of country 
is part of our nature. 

" Breathes there a man with soul so dead 
Who never to himself hath said, 
This is my own — my native land ? " 

I look upon that heart with pity which is devoid of this feeling ; indeed, to my 
mind it is an involuntary one, which " grows with our growth and strengthens 
with our strength," having its inception in our very cradle, and formed in those 
pure and sunny days of infancy when we love all things animate and inanimate ; 
when the bright streamlet, the dark river, the blue mountains, and the green fields, 
among which we passed our childhood, form a picture ever before our eyes, and 
grows so entwined with our being, that our hearts must cease to beat ere we forget 
to love. 

However removed by distance from its influence, I am satisfied we can never be 
totally divested of this feeling ; never altogether uninterested in the state of our 
native land. True our relations with it may have a greater or less effect in 
strengthening or weakening the sentiments. The peer who possesses a lordly 
dwelling regards with complacency and high gratification his proud ancestral halls 
and paternal demesne lands, as they are monuments of his power — they give him 
dignity and a name ; yet I doubt much if his attachment to his country exceeds 
that of the poor peasant, whose mud hovel is here by the wayside. The bare com- 
fortless Avails sustain no costly pictures ; the windows, through which the wind 
whistles unchecked, bear no emblazoned panes, permitting the sunlight to enter 
in many a varied hue ; but bright and sunny visions of family repose, of domestic 
endearment with his humble wife, of years spent in contentment which poverty 
could not displace, which a community of privation, instead of embittering, only 
serves to strengthen and increase — these, these are the ties which bind the 
poor man to his home. Home ! alas, the home that often depends on the rich 
man's will, who, without the least regard to the links which he sunders, to the 
heart-strings rudely torn, mindless or unthinking of the affections so consecrated, 
turns the family from the once happy dwelling to become dreary wanderers in the 
world's waste. Oh! if those whom an all-wise Providence hath placed in stations 
of power and affluence would but recollect how slight the causes which engender 



142 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

the love of country in the breast of the poor man, as compared with them, yet 
how strongly it subsists — how strong that affection for home, the source of domestic 
virtues, must in truth be, to endear the clay -built cabin, the damp earth floor, the 
bare rough walls — they would not only try to improve those under their own imme- 
diate eye, by letting them comfortable dwellings, and giving premiums for neat- 
ness ; rewarding their workmen, who, having the good fortune to become members 
of the Temperance Society, are faithful assistants to my highly esteemed and 
venerated friend, the very Reverend Theobald Mathew, by strictly adhering to their 
pledge, but discountenance, as far as possible, the snapping asunder those fine 
links, more valuable than golden, which ought to subsist between the tenant and his 
landlord, between the labourer and his employer. We should not then have our 
ears filled with accounts of heart-rending ejectment scenes, which defile the face of 
the country, and which would hardly be credited but for the terrible vengeance 
occasionally inflicted in return by men whose nature has been rendered savage by 
a denial of humane treatment. A most intelligent observer of mankind, Charles 
Dickens, in one of his admirable works (through all of which is manifestly a tone 
of soul-felt benevolence to his kind), remarks, " In love of home the love of country 
has its rise ; and who are truer patriots or best in time of need — those who vene- 
rate the land, owning its wood, and stream, and earth, and all that they produce ? 
or those who love their country, boasting not a foot of ground in all its wide 
domain?" 

In Young's Tour in Ireland during the years 1776 — 1779, we find the following 
account of the visit of that dispassionate and clever writer to this town and neigh- 
bourhood : — " Here they plough with horses, four or six to a plough. The 'poor 
pay 105. rent for a cabin, and 20s. for one acre for potatoes ; 21. 2s. for grass for a 
cow, and 10s. for the winter's hay. They live upon potatoes generally the year 
through ; all of them keep coivs and pigs, which latter they feed on small potatoes. 
Their circumstances are not better than twenty years ago ; for though they have 
now sixpence and then had but fivepence, yet the rise is not proportioned to that 
of rents? I lament to think the poor are even worse off" now, in 1844, than when 
the above was written. They still dwell in cabins, and live on potatoes the year 
through, thankful if they have enough to supply the wants of nature, which does 
not always happen. None can afford to keep cows, and they certainly pay more 
than 205. an acre for potato ground, and more than 10s. for a cabin. How truly 
may we repeat their circumstances are not better than sixty years ago ! for though 
they have now eightpence and then had but sixpence a day, yet the rise is not pro- 
portioned to that of rents. 

Young continues : — " The soil of this county is in general limestone ; but from 
Knockerera mountain, near Mallow, to Cork, there is no limestone. Leases are for 
thirty-one years, or three lives ; some for three lives and thirty- one years after ; 



TO THE BIVER BLACKWATER. 143 

and many farms let to middle men, who occupy no part of the land themselves, but 
re-let it. Above one third of the country is waste land. Mr. Jephson cultivates 
his land very highly : by means of regular attention, united with the goodness of the 
soil, he has brought it into the present state of perfection. The whole is divided 
into fields of a moderate size, with double quick hedges, well planted with trees, 
and kept in the most perfect degree of neatness ; between the hedges are gravel 
walks, so that there is a planted communication about all the fields ; the gates are 
neat and light, and every attention preserved to give the whole the appearance of 
a ferme ornee. This tribute to the arrangements of the late Mr. Jephson has 
been adopted by the Rev. Horatio Townsend, in his survey of Cork, and was so 
fully corroborated by the judicious mode of culture I witnessed, as to justify my 
using it with reference to the present baronet. 

A horse trainer of this town claims some notice, not so much from his own 
as his father's fame. He is Sullivan, son to the celebrated Whisperer, and 
inherits a portion, at least, of his father's mysterious power over the horse, which 
I saw him exercise on the Fermoy race course. The father was a farrier, and 
acquired such an influence in subduing the spirit of the most vicious and refractory 
horse, as to become a celebrated character, and obtained the sobriquet of " the 
Whisperer." He is described as an awkward ignorant rustic of the lowest class, 
and was paid generally according to the distance he was summoned to tame a 
vicious beast. When he reached his destination, he performed the operation in 
secret, causing himself and the animal to be shut up together in the stable, the 
door not to be opened until he gave a signal to do so. After a tete-a-tete of a half 
hour's duration, during which little or no noise was heard by those anxiously lis- 
tening, or " airing their eye at the keyhole," the signal made, the door opened, 
presented the horse lying down and the man by his side familiarly playing with 
him, like a child with a young dog. The spirit hitherto so untractable as to defy 
the ordinary rough riders was completely broken ; the steed, from which the boldest 
rider shrunk as dangerous to mount, a child might ride in safety. Rev. H. 
Townsend relates : — " I once saw his skill tried on a horse which could never before 
be brought for a smith to shoe him. The day after Sullivan's half -hour lecture, I 
went, not without some incredulity, to the smith's shop with many other curious 
spectators, when we were eye-witnesses of the complete success of his art. This, 
too, had been a troop horse, and it was supposed, not without reason, that after 
regimental discipline had failed no other would be found availing." Another gen- 
tleman, of whose friendship from my childhood I can speak with gratitude, for if 
my sketches possess any merit, to him in a great measure the praise is due who 
so kindly imparted instruction, while he and his accomplished daughter, now Lady 
Deane, of Cork, were visiters at my father's, Robert O'Callaghan Newenham, 
Esq., delineator and projector of that costly and accurately designed work, 'Pic- 



144 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

turesque Antiquities of Ireland,' mentions a horse of his so thoroughly and irre- 
claimably vicious, that he would have taken five pounds willingly to get rid of 
him, though a noble figure, and of great powers of action. He heard of Sullivan, 
and sent for him. This was an opportunity of testing the accuracy of the stories 
told respecting his mysterious power, as the horse was quite wild and unbroken. 
Two guineas fee being agreed on in case of success — no purchase no pay — the 
pair were left tete-a-tete in the stable. At the expiration of some fifteen or twenty 
minutes the door was opened, and the horse utterly changed in temper and deport- 
ment. The skittish and fiery brute had disappeared, and a patient tractable 
animal, fit for a middle-aged gentleman, was led forth. When exposed to view he 
was in a profuse perspiration, as if he had been galloped, and seemed to tremble 
as through fear. The fame of the ^Whisperer was realised ; he placed a child on 
the horse's back, and the light hand curbed him : nay, more ; he placed the boy 
under the animal's feet, and he neither kicked or stirred while the child lay within 
reach. My friend kept the horse in use, riding him without danger, and disposed 
of him for fifty pounds. Sullivan would have realised quite a fortune if he had 
been prudent, but affection for hunting and love of whisky were his ruin. I fear 
these were among his legacies to his son, but trust the spread of temperance may 
have numbered the latter in the ranks of those who have taken the pledge of total 
abstinence at the hands of that great and good man, the very Reverend Theobald 
Mathew. 

The neighbourhood of Mallow contains some small towns worthy the visit of the 
tourist. Doneraile, seven miles north-east, contains a good wide street, several 
substantial houses, and many respectable inhabitants. There is a good house of 
entertainment — I believe it does not aspire to the title of hotel — in the street. The 
principal object of attraction is Lord Doneraile's park and demesne, which abounds 
in scenic beauty. Besides some artificial waters in the grounds, the Awbeg (already 
mentioned) winds through the park. The house stands on an elevation, com- 
manding a view of the river, and the rising grounds beside it are dotted by noble 
trees. The leafy bowers of the demesne suffered much in the great storm of Ja- 
nuary 6th, 1839, which made regular lanes in many parts of the woods. The 
scenery is chiefly confined to the beauties of the grounds. A distant view of the Gal- 
tees increases the landscape beauty. Kilcolman, the abode of Edmund Spenser, 
is situated about three miles from Doneraile. Kilbrack, seat of the Stawel family, 
a fine demesne, is near tins. Creagh Castle, the seat of G. "W. B. Creagh, Esq., is 
in the immediate neighbourhood ; the entrance-gate is in the florid Gothic style. 

Buttevant is four miles from Doneraile. Its name long inspired terror, being 
the war-cry of the Barrys, a powerful Anglo-Norman family in Munster, — Boutez- 
en-avant, " Push forward." It is used as the motto of the heraldic bearings of 
that family. The earls of Barrymore derived the title of viscount from Buttevant. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 145 

This was called by the Irish, Boothon, and Killenamulla, or the church of the 
Mulla, which runs near the town. This is the name Spenser calls it. 

It was anciently a place of note, surrounded by walls with gateways, and go- 
verned by a corporation. Near the turnpike, on the Mallow road, some consider- 
able ruins exist, which I consider were part of the defences of the town. The 
castle, called King John's Castle, or Buttevant Castle, seat of Sir James Caleb 
Anderson, Bart., is quite close to the town. 

The castle is said to have been the chief seat of the head of the O'Donegans, 
who resisted all efforts of the English when they attempted to take possession of 
it. Gold, however, effected an entrance when steel failed. David de Barry, 
commander of the besieging army, found means to corrupt a soldier of the garrison, 
who, when his turn as a sentinel came, opened the gates to the invaders, and the 
sleeping inmates never woke to this life. A meet reward awaited the traitor — 
his head was struck off with the rest ; and the legendary tale of Mr. Crofton 
Croker concludes with this notice : — " There was a small addition to this story 
related to me, as possessing equal claims to belief. The dissevered and ghastly 
head of the betrayer, as it was bounding down the stairs of one of the towers, yelled 
forth, in a sepulchral and terrible tone, the word — Treachery ! — treachery ! — 
treachery ! " 

The town is situated on the west bank of the river, and consists principally of 
one long street. There are very extensive barracks, enclosing an area of twenty- 
three statute acres, divided into two quadrangles by a centre range, in which is an 
archway surmounted by a cupola. The church is a handsome structure, with 
square embattled tower and finely proportioned spire. It is built near the castle, 
and within the demesne attached. The new Roman Catholic chapel is very beau- 
tiful, and derives much of its architectural advantages from the exertions of the 
parish priest, Rev. C. Buckley. The estimated expense was 3000Z. of which 600/. 
was granted on loan, by the Board of Public Works, the .rest composed of sub- 
scriptions. Lord Doneraile presented the site and 30/. The account given in 
Lewis's " Topographical Dictionary" is very correct : — "It is a very handsome 
structure, of hewn limestone, in the later English style, consisting of a nave and 
transept, between which on each side rises a square embattled tower, crowned with 
richly crocketted pinnacles : the walls are strengthened with buttresses at the 
angles, and between the windows of the nave, terminating in crocketted pinnacles, 
above an embattled parapet, carried round the building ; and the gables of the 
transept are surmounted by Maltese crosses, beneath which, on each side, is a 
cinquefoiled niche, resting on a projecting corbel. The nave is lighted by a range 
of three windows of two lights, ornamented in cinquefoil, with a quaterfoiled 
circle in the crown of the arch ; and the transept is lighted at each end by a noble 
window of five lights, twenty-six feet high, and elaborately enriched with tracery : 



146 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



the tower at the east side was a detached watch-tower, belonging to the abbey, 
erected by one of the Earls of Desmond, for the protection of the brethren in 
times of violence, and incorporated with the present building." 

The ruins of the abbey close by present the remnants of a once glorious pile. 
Portions of the nave, chancel, and steeple-tower yet plead haughtily for greatness 
vanished. Some years since a high square tower, supported by a springing arch 
in the centre, fell, and choked up the interior with its fragments. Sir Richard 
Cox states that Buttevant Abbey was repaired by the Roman Catholics, as a place 
of worship, in 1604. It is yet regarded with great reverence by the peasantry of 
the district. 

" Here many an antique monument is found 
Illegible and faithless to its charge ; 
That, deep insculp'd, once held in measur'd phrase 
The mighty deeds of those who sleep below : 
Of hero, sage, or saint, whose pious hands 
These ponderous masses rais'd — forgotten now — 
They and their monuments alike repose." 

The accompanying sketch is - 

supposed to represent the tomb 
of the founder, David de Barry. 

Near the entrance were a num- 
ber of skulls and bones, perishable 
remnants of the soldiers who fell 
in the battle of Knockninoss, a 
few miles distant. This engage- 
ment took place in the year 1647, 
between the English parliamentary 
forces, commanded by the Earl of 
Inchiquin, and the Irish, under the 
guidance of Lord Taaffe. The 
latter were defeated with great 
slaughter, and a vote of something 
more substantial than thanks 
passed to the successful general. 

It was in this battle the piece of music so generally played on the bag-pipes — 
Ollistrune's March — earned its place among our favourite tunes. Mr. Crofton Croker 
thus refers to it : — "A party of Scotch Highlanders in the Irish army, headed 
by Alexander M'Donnell, or M'Allisdrum, contested their ground in the most 
determined and gallant manner, and were inhumanly butchered by the victors. 
That wild and monstrous piece of music, known by the name of Ollistrune's 




TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 147 



March, so popular in the South of Ireland, and said to have been played at 
Knockninoss, should not, it appears to me, be considered as an Irish air." 

FROM MALLOW TO THE SOURCE OF THE BLACKWATER. 

Shortly after passing Mallow, the Blackwater receives the Clydagh, and runs 
through a fertile valley, clothed with wood. Near the extensive mills of Messrs. 
Brady is a neat house, the residence of the worthy parish priest, Rev. D. Collins. 
Not far from the town is Quartertown, the finely planted demesne of John Dillon 
Croker, Esq. Here is a chalybeate spring. Some men were employed in erecting 
a quay wall as I rode past Quartertown, which would confine the channel of the 
river to its proper bed. If this example at Mr. Croker's place would induce other 
landed proprietors to build likewise along their respective banks, there would soon 
be abundance of water for all purposes of navigation. To the north is Firville, the 
seat of R. Atkins, Esq., a square house in a pretty lawn ; and close by Eden Hill, 
the seat of J. Carpenter, Esq. Mr. Ware's estate bounds the river on the south, 
and the plantations clothe the hills to the summit. There is a conical hill, well 
planted, in this demesne, which is seen at a considerable distance. The river now 
winds in its course, and is of considerable width. Summerfield, a pretty cottage 
on the north, is the residence of D. O'Callaghan, Esq. Nearly opposite is a 
thickly wooded range of high land, descending precipitately to the water. This 
is Drumaneen, Mr. Bolster's seat ; and about three miles west from Mallow we 
reach a splendid ruin, called Drumaneen Castle. 



148 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



DRUMANEEN. 

" At a distance of between three and four miles west of Mallow," writes Mr. 
Windele, " stands on a steep crag above the river the castle of Drumaneen, which, 
in its feudal day, belonged to the chief of the race of O'Callaghan, a family deriving 
from a common ancestry with the princely house of McCarthy. The name of the 
site, Drumaneen, or more correctly, Drown Fineen, once belonged to an extended 
territory, which lay at each side of the Blackwater from its source to its ter- 
mination. It indicates a tract identified in Irish history with an event placed many 
generations before the time of Kimbaoth, in that dreamy period which the old 
annalist, Tigernach, has characterised as ' incerta? The first war between the 
Scoto-Milesian brothers, Heber and Eremon, arose from the cupidity of the queen 
of the former prince. Already possessed of the two fairest vales in Ireland, she 
saw and coveted that of Drumaneen, certainly not inferior to any other in Ireland. 
Her unjust pretensions led to a war between the brothers, the issue of which was 
decided in a pitched battle on the plain of Geishiol, in Ossory, wherein Heber was 
slain, and the power of his house crushed for some subsequent generations." 

What Cromwell said of the Tipperary " Golden Vein," when its luxuriant 
beauty lay outstretched before him, might well be repeated of Drumaneen, 
that it is " surely a country worth fighting for." Its loveliness and fertility 
would almost justify the desire of the picturesque-loving queen, even though its 
indulgence should cost a civil war. We speak, of course, with that kind of moral 
sense which may be presumed to have been in the ascendant in those fine old 
times, when sufficed 



the good old rule — the simple plan — 

That they should take who have the power, 
And they should keep who can. 

Possession doubtless remained to the victor, and its subsequent transmission must 
have glided on smoothly from king to thane, in all the pleasing variety which the 
several laws of Gavel Kind and Lair laider, or the Stronghand, were so well quali- 
fied delightfully to produce. In the eleventh century Drumaneen was the chief seat 
of the O'Callaghans ; whether their abode was a Dun, a Caithir, or a Lios at that 
time, history saith not. Doubtless when castellation was resorted to by the Irish 
chieftains, in emulation of the Dane, the Norman, and the Saxon, the Lord of 
Drumaneen demolished his primitive entrenchment and erected his donjon-keep like 
the rest. The present remains, however, do not carry us to a very remote date. 
Their architectural style adjudges them to the Tudor era, and we may fairly 
consider the structure as coeval with the neighbouring castle of Mallow, which was 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 149 

erected by one of the last earls of the house of Desmond. A turn from the high 
road, as we pass the modern church of Newberry with its ancient steeple, leads 
over a by-way of a truly " auld- world" character, with the remains of a once 
laboured pavement, now thickly grass-grown, and furrowed, and broken. This 
road may be properly said to terminate " nowhere or thereabouts ;" it evanishes 
unconsciously, ere we reach a broad green avenue shaded with antique oaks and 
elms. This seems of an interminable length, and as lone and buried in solitude as 
though it led to some haunted castle, long buried under the drowsy spell of the 
sorcerer. It is a dream-inspiring scene, conjuring up visions of the long departed; 
of mailed chiefs and fair ladies, dimly seen in twilight glades ; or of armed hosts, 
moving in silent procession over swards long abandoned to neglect and desolation. 
In our progress we did not meet a living being for half a mile of pavement and 
avenue, and it was only by a dogged perseverance that at length we found buried, 
amid surrounding foliage, the lonely walls of the structure we were in search of. 
Architecturally speaking, the building stands a specimen of the last phase of 
castellation, in the descent from the lofty moated keep to the simple manor-house. 
It presents an irregular shell, with high gables, massive chimneys, and one or two 
machicolated projecting parapets, peeping out above the ivy which thickly clothes 
the building, and resting on rounded corbels. The interior is an utter ruin ; all 
vestige of floors and stairs entirely gone. The execution of the carved doorways, 
mullions, dripstones, and elaborate mantelpieces is excellent. A taste for that ille- 
gitimate Italian style, which began to pervade at the beginning of the seventeenth 
century, seems prevalent in the forms of the doorways and fireplaces of this struc- 
ture, and would refer us for the date of the building at once to the close of the 
reign of Elizabeth. 

Drumaneen and Mallow Castles, within a few miles of each other, are fair speci- 
mens of the transition style which pervaded the strong houses of a semi-military 
class of this period. Mallow, a few years earlier than the former, still preserves 
much of the general form of the structures of the era of the Roses, while Drumaneen 
assumes a more extended and less distrustful aspect, approaching nearer to the 
modern domestic building. The precautions adopted for defence in the earlier 
castles are all nearly rejected in this ; what few military features it possesses 
seem to have been designed as much for ornament as protection. In both castles 
the broad Tudor windows descend in greater proximity to the ground ; the dark 
loop disappears, and the strong arched floors and stone stairs are absent. Domestic 
accommodation and comfort seem to have been mainly studied ; the chambers 
enlarged, the cells discarded, the walls cease to be of massive thickness, and 
horizontal lines and depressed arches occupy the places of the earlier lancet and 
pointed. 

On the 18th of February, 4 Jac. 1., a general pardon was granted amongst 



150 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



others to Cahir O'Callaghan, of Drumaneen. He had been concerDed in the rising 
of Tyrone, in aid of the Spanish invasion, defeated at the siege of Kinsale. 

In the eighth year of the same reign, the same Cahir O'Callaghan surren- 
dered all his estates, with the intent that the same should be granted to him by 
letters patent ; and in May following he received the expected grant, a part being 
created the manor of Drumaneen, with 600 acres, country measure, in demesne, 
with power to hold courts leet and baron. During the disastrous war of 1641, 
O'Callaghan followed the fortunes of his chieftain Muskerry, and sided with the 
Catholic confederates, for which, when the arms of the Commonwealth became 
triumphant, he was declared a forfeiting traitor, and stripped of his estates, and in 
the 19 Car. 2., a portion of these, including the lands of Drumaneen, was granted 
to Sir Richard Kyrle, Knt. Who the lineal representative of this Cahir 
O'Callaghan now is we are not informed. The most prominent personage of 
the name at the present day is the Viscount Lismore, and another of the name 
represents the city of Cork in Parliament. 

This noble pile is boldly situated on the very verge of the river, the cliffs 
supporting the foundation leaning almost over the water. In former days it was 
the chief seat of the O'Callaghans, ancestors of the present Lord Lismore, on whose 
estate I was told this castle is situated : an extensive lawn surrounds the main 
building ; this was enclosed by a wall, now entirely in ruins, and formerly flanked 
by round towers. The present ruined building was erected in the reign of King 
James I., on the foundation of a former castle, which the constant wars of these 
turbulent times had nearly razed to the ground. In King William III.'s reign 
this castle belonged to the English, who maintained a garrison for a considerable 
time, under the command of Lieut. Col. Calliford. In 19 Car. 2. Sir Richard 
Kyrle passed a patent for this castle of Drumaneen, and other lands in Duhallow 
and Fermoy, which were forfeited by Donogh O'Callaghan in 1641 ; and in 
2 Jac. 2. Richard Newman, Esq. passed a patent for the castle and lands of 
Drumaneen, and other lands paying into the exchequer 541. 3s. 8d., as appears in 
Smith's " History of Cork." 

Directly opposite this picturesque ruin is a noble demesne and spacious mansion, 
Longueville, the seat of J. Longfield, Esq. The house is situated on a height, and 
commands a splendid view. It consists of a square centre, with wings, and has a 
fine appearance. The demesne is thickly wooded; but a judicious vista in the trees 
bordering the road affords an opening through which the castle of Drumaneen is 
visible. 

Higher up is Waterloo, a pretty house, and well-planted lawn, belonging to 
another member of the Longfield family, who have extensive possessions in this 
barony, and bear an excellent character in all their relations to those over whom 
Providence has placed them. This family is said to be of Norman extraction, and 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 151 

claims descent from Longchamps, who accompanied William the Conqueror in his 
invasion of England. On the success of the expedition, he received grants of lands, 
and was summoned to parliament as tenant to the Crown in capite. The repre- 
sentative of this noble house adhered to the fortunes of the Stuarts, and, like most 
of the followers of that unfortunate race, suffered from his attachment to the 
unworthy James II. In 1795, Richard Longfield, member of parliament for the 
city of Cork, was created a peer by the title of Baron Longueville, of Longueville, 
and advanced to the dignity of viscount in 1800. He married Margaret White, 
related to the Earl of Bantry, by whom he left no issue, and the title became 
extinct in 1811. 

The view from the river is extensive and picturesque. Hills cultivated to the 
summit are backed by a high range of heath-clad mountains, while the banks on 
either side are wooded to the brink. From Dromore, seat of A. Newman, Esq., 
on the south side of the river, a fine view of the Blackwater is obtained. 

At some distance from the north bank is Loghert Castle, a strong building 
belonging to the Earl of Egmont ; and a little beyond this is Ballygiblin, the truly 
beautiful seat of Sir William Wrixon Becher, Bart. The house is well situated, 
with a southern aspect, commanding a fine view of Loghert Castle, and the tall 
dark brow of Mount Hilary, with the Blackwater winding round the base. The 
family name was Wrixon, and is yet borne by many respectable natives of this 
part of the country. Sir William was created a baronet in 1831, and, in obedience 
to the will of his uncle, assumed the name of Becher, which was confirmed by 
sign manual. He married, in 1819, Miss O'Neill, whose celebrity as a most 
accomplished tragic actress is well known. The Bechers settled in Ireland in 
Queen Elizabeth's reign, and "Burke's Peerage" states the baronet has in his 
possession a pedigree, tracing his ancestors in that line to Sir Eustace de Bridge- 
court, who came from Hainault with Philippa, queen-consort to Edward III., in 
1328. Colonel Thomas Becher was a useful officer in William IH.'s army ; and on 
some occasion so gratified that monarch, that he made Colonel Becher a present 
of his watch, now in the possession of his descendant, Richard Becher, Esq. of 
Hollybrook. 

Further north is Castlecor, the seat of Edward Deane Freeman, Esq. The 
house is one of the best in the county, with suitable offices, and a finely -wooded 
demesne. Some of the old trees are superb. The Freemans have been in pos- 
session of Castlecor for a period exceeding 200 years. The mansion was built on 
the site of an ancient castle, some distance from the ruins of a monastery, yet 
traceable in the deer park. This monastery is considered to have been fortified. 
By intermarriage of William Freeman with Jane, daughter of Sir Matthew 
Deane, Bart., they became connected with the Deanes of Dromore. Sir Matthew 
was created a baronet in 1700, and his descendant is now Lord Muskerry. The 



152 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

Freemans are nearly allied to the noble houses of Lord Lismore, Lord Carew, 
Lord Muskerry. 

Some extensive plantations on the north bank surround Wood Park, belonging 
to Mr. Carmichael ; and above it is Rose Cottage, the pretty dwelling of Mr. 
Leahy. Between these demesnes is a deep gully, denoting the track where a 
mountain torrent rushes into the Blackwater, which in this place is rapid, and 
sweeps along a stony bed. The shallows here are owing in a great measure 
to the stones and rubbish the mountain stream brings with it, especially in winter 
floods, and accumulate at the mouth of the gully. Opposite are the woods of 
Lombardstown, while to the west is a hill called Laherne, and north-west soars 
Mount Hilary. 

From thence to Ruskern bridge, within a few miles of Kanturk, the river winds 
to the north. The country to the* south seems much better land, and the farming 
in general better than along the opposite bank. Within about a mile of the bridge, 
to the south, the river is very shallow, and a tall ledge of rock rises on the north 
bank. From hence to Mallow, about four miles, a line of canal was projected 
about fifty years ago ; the object being to connect the collieries to the west with 
that town and neighbourhood. The project seems to have received much support, 
for the entire line is cut, and strange to say, this most useful undertaking is suffered 
to lie utterly neglected. When the principal expense has been incurred, the very 
chambers for locks or sluices built, the whole is abandoned ! ! Unhappy Ireland ! how 
long are your resources to lie dormant ? How long is the disgraceful apathy of your 
landed proprietors to continue, driving your virtuous sons and daughters to seek, 
as exiles, in distant regions the means of subsistence so abundant in their native 
land ? The notice of the disadvantage of the means of water-carriage to this dis- 
trict is as fully applicable now as when Dr. Smith wrote, though a hundred years 
has since elapsed. " The northern part of this barony (Duhallow), though far 
from being barren, is yet thinly inhabited, and the farmers are the only consumers 
of what corn grows upon the premises. The roads in winter time are for the most 
part bad, and there being no navigable river, it is hard to get off the tenant's corn 
but at such a price of carriage as must greatly increase the value when sent to 
Cork market. There is plenty of turf and coal, but for want of water carriage, if 
quantities of this last material were dug, it would be of little value."* May 
I be allowed to indulge the hope, that ere another century rolls round, the water 
shall flow through the now grass-grown " Navigation line? " If the landlords would 
only see the exertions making in other countries, or, indeed, in portions of this, 
to improve the condition of their tenantry, they would soon turn their attention to 
this point of national utility. I would recommend short canals, having a practical 

* Dr. Smith's Cork, vol. i. p. 302. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 153 

object, or deepening the beds of rivers between towns, so as to afford direct com- 
munication from the interior of the country with the sea, in preference to, and as 
a much safer speculation than, any system of railroads in Ireland. 

The river is rapid as it approaches Ruskern bridge, and the country is much 
altered for the better from that we lately passed. Trees wave their branches over 
the stream soon to reflect nothing save barren rocks ; and handsome mansions 
relieve the eye that lately looked over a wide desolate tract. To the north we 
behold two houses, one, the nearer, belonging to Mr. Orpen, the other to Mr. Power. 
This last appears a highly improved spot ; the porter's lodge at the entrance is 
built of variegated freestone, and has a handsome appearance. South of the bridge 
is Gurtmore, the seat of E. Foot, Esq., surrounded by a good screen of trees. Near 
this, on the south bank, is a lofty ledge of limestone rock, descending perpendicu- 
larly into the water, here of considerable width, and divided into two channels by 
an island thickly covered with furze. This is called Gurtmore Rock, and contains 
several caverns, none of much size. The well-cultivated land from this to Clon- 
meen is the estate of George Grehan, Esq., whose numerous acts of kindness to 
his tenantry make him deservedly popular. He has built a neat cottage here, 
which commands a pretty view of the river, and has made considerable embank- 
ments to keep off the floods along the river side. Near this is a comfortable man- 
sion, the residence of the Rev. P. Townsend. 

A little to the west, the south bank displays prostrate relics of feudal times. 
Half a ruined flanking tower, portion of a lofty wall, and remains of a parallel, 
constitute all that remains of Clonmeen Castle. This castle was destroyed during 
the wars of 1641, and several of the cannon balls which battered the walls have 
been found. It presents a melancholy spectacle of faded glory, as it must have 
been of great strength, presenting, even in decay, the lingering traces of former 
might. The lord of the soil, Mr. Grehan, mentioned to me his intention of re- 
storing something of its pristine strength. Yet westward is the parish church, a 
plain edifice, without spire or tower, standing in an old graveyard. This was the 
burial place of the O'Callaghans, who, according to Colgan, founded a monastery 
here for Augustine friars. Most probably the portion of ruined wall close to the 
church is the remnant left by time to mark the spot hallowed by the piety of the 
monks of old. Around are numerous tombstones, marking where 

" The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep." 

Near the church the sight rests on a well-cultivated farm, and close by, the com- 
fortable farm-house belonging to Mr. Sheehan. The thatched roof is met near the 
eaves by creepers covering the white walls ; a little plot of ground in front of the 
house is broken into flower beds, and a small screen of trees surrounds this neat dwell- 
ing. The neighbouring hay-yard bespeaks good produce. There is little doubt that 



154 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



the principal cause of inferiority in the farms of the country arises from the farmer 
grasping at too much ; consequently, having more land than his capital enables 
him to till properly, some portion is neglected, and, in many instances, the entire is 



J^-- 




but half cultivated. It should be an invariable rule with every person taking land 
not to bind himself to pay rent for a rood more than he can manage. He should 
keep neither horses, sheep, nor pigs more than he can feed. It is the worst of all 
economy to have half-starved pigs or cattle of any description. By having such 
a quantity of ground as he can bring into cultivation by his own labour and 
means, he is always independent, and punctual with his rent. 

Close to Bantyre Bridge the river Bantyre runs from Mount Hilary, and falls into 
the Blackwater. Opposite is a small house belonging to Mr. Leader. At the 
cross of Bantyre is the Roman Catholic chapel of Clonmeen, and near it a com- 
modious dwelling of the priest, the Rev. Edmund Murphy. A good school has been 
built, and another is in progress of erection, under the superintendence of this ex- 
cellent clergyman, who, acting on a principle similar to his respected brother, the 
parish priest of Fermoy, incessantly labours for the spread of information, and the 
advancement of religion and virtue throughout their respective localities. This 
neighbourhood was the scene of a conflict in 1652. In the month of July of that 
year, a body of the parliamentary troops, led by Lord Broghill, having in the 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 155 



night repulsed the cavalry under the command of Lord Muskerry, who was trying 
to advance to the relief of Limerick, crossed the Blackwater, and about half a mile 
east of Bantyre bridge came up with Lord Muskerry's troops posted on the high 
ground of Knockbruck, or Knockiclashy, and routed them with great slaughter. 
After the wars, Sir Richard Kyrle settled at this place. He erected iron-works 
near it, cut down a vast tract of wood, and considerably improved the country. 
When the French threatened to invade L-eland in 1666, this Sir Richard Kyrle 
offered Lord Orrery to raise a troop of sixty horse, of which his lordship informed 
the Duke of Ormond, and said, " The world had no better men than Sir Richard 
had, and he knew him to be an excellent officer." This estate Sir Richard sold to 
R. Newman, Esq. 

About two miles from Clonmeen is Castle Magner, which, though not imme- 
diately on the river Blackwater, has an anecdote related of one of its lords too 
good to be omitted here. During the insurrection, 1641, this castle belonged 
to Richard Magner, agent for the Irish in Orrery and Kilmore. When Cromwell 
was at Clonmell he went to pay his court to him, but being represented as a very 
troublesome person, and one who had been very active during the war, Cromwell 
resolved he should not be so in future, and sent him with a letter to Colonel Phair, 
governor of Cork, couched in terms sufficiently laconic, but if " short, not sweet," 
merely " execute the bearer? Magner, who it appears had no exalted idea of the 
Protector's friendship from his interview, opened the letter, which no doubt startled 
him a trifle. He did not linger long before he formed a little plan of his own, and 
carefully sealing up the dreaded missive, instead of proceeding to Cork turned off 
to Mallow, and handed it to the officer in command there, telling him Cromwell had 
ordered him to carry it to Colonel Phair. This officer had often preyed on Magner's 
land, for which he thus sought to be revenged. This officer, proud of the trust, and 
suspecting nothing, went with the letter, which greatly amazed the governor, who 
knew him to be a most excellent soldier, and immediately sent an express to Crom- 
well for further orders. Cromwell, being extremely chagrined to be so served, 
sent orders to give the officer his liberty and to apprehend Magner, who used the 
interval in effecting his escape.* 

Before leaving Clonmeen we must not omit to mention the famous robber, 
Daniel the Outlaw, who formerly had his lair in the cave of Gurtmore, and the hap- 
less fate of the companion who softened the horrors of the rocky dwelling — the 
unfortunate, lovely Margaret Kelly. Daniel O'Keeffe the Outlaw, was a fohWer 
of O'Keeffe, lord of this district. Having accidentally slain M'Donough, the chief- 
tain of Duhallow, he was obliged to retire into these wild, unfrequented districts 



* Smith's Hist, of Cork. 



].",(') HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



to avoid the anger of the chieftain's clan. The bold adventure he encountered in 
making good his retreat, and his daring soul, soon found sympathy in other minds, 
and he became captain of a formidable band of freebooters, the terror of the neigh- 
bourhood. Their usual plan was to carry off whole herds until a certain sum wan 
paid for their ransom, and they levied a regular black mail, like the border chief- 
tains of England and Scotland. The cave of Gurtmore rock was his principal 
re lort, being almost inaccessible. The river then swept the base) and a few rude 
tep cut in the limestone led to the cave. The outlaw was of a fine manly form, 

and hi- bold irregular life found favour in the Bight of a beautiful girl, named 
Margaret Kelly, who shared his lonely fell and outlawed fortune--. The affection 

which induced her to leave all and follow the object of her love seems to have 

waked finer feelings in the heart of the O'Keefb-. a - he frequently made -onncf.s and 

rude ballad iii her praise. u Sed vdrium et mutdbile semper.* The oner of a lar^c 
reward induced Hargaret to betray her lover. Her duty being to manage the 
domestic concern , be m accustomed to go to Mallow to buy provisions, and 
always crossed the river in a boat concealed in the cave. She agreed for a certain 

SUm, with the officer in 'oniinand at. Mallow, to betray O'Koeffo into hi- hand-. 

When nexl 0*KeeiFe crossed the river in the boat, to enable hie companions to pro- 
ceed tO Mallow, the -older.-; were to shoot him on hi- way aero-- to the cave ; for 

thi he received a written order for a considerable sum of money, which was to be 
paid her on O'Keeffe'.- death or apprehension. After this wicked agreement she 
returned to the cave. Her unsuspecting lover pressed her to hi- boom: his eye 
caught a glimpse of the paper concealed in lei - breast— he snatched and read it. 
Stung to madness that she whom he loved jo pa uonately should }><■ capable of 
such perfidy, he drew his skein and buried it in her heart. 

'IIm- lament which Donalna l\<is<n. or Daniel the Outlaw, is -aid to have made 

On thi- OCCfl ion i ;•- follows : — 

" At the dance in the rills 
Thy whifc foot was fleetest, 
Tii) roice 'mid the concert 

of maideni was iweel 

The swdl of thy white hreast 

Blade rich lovers follow ; 

And thy raven hair hound them 
Ifonng Mauriadc in Kallagh. 

" No more ■ li.ill mine ear drink 
Thy melody swelling ; 
Nor thy beaming eye brighten 
The outlaw*! d;irk dwelling ; 



TO THE RIVER BLACK WATER. 157 



Or thy soft heaving bosom 

My destiny hallow, 
When thine arms twine round me, 

Young Mauriade in Kallagh. 

" The moss couch I brought thee 

To-day from the mountain 
Has drunk the last drop 

Of thy young heart's red fountain ; 
For this good skein beside me 

Struck deep and rung hollow 
In thy bosom of treason, 

Young Mauriade in Kallagh. 

" With strings of rich pearls 

Thy white neck was laden, 
And thy fingers with spoils 

Of the Sassanach maiden : 
Such rich silks enrob'd not 

The dames of Moyalla ; 
Such dear gold they wore not 

As Mauriade in Kallagh. 

" Alas ! that my lov'd one 

Her outlaw would injure ; 
Alas ! that he should prove 

Her treason's avenger ! 
That this right hand should make thee 

A bed cold and hollow, 
When in death's sleep it laid thee, 

Young Mauriade in Kallagh. 

" And while to this lone cave 

My deep grief I'm venting, 
The Saxon's keen bandog 

My footsteps is scenting ; 
But true men await me 

Afar in Duhallow. 
Farewell, cave of slaughter, 

And Mauriade in Kallagh." 

To the north of the river is Kanturk, about three miles distant, situate on 
the Alio river, which joins the Blackwater not far from Ballymaquick Bridge. 
Immediately before the Alio falls into the Blackwater it is crossed by a good 
bridge, called Leader's Bridge. The castle of Kanturk is one of the strongest 
ruins in Ireland. This was the chief seat of the McCarthys, kings of Des- 



158 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



mond. The name is derived from Ceanntuire, signifying a boar's head, one of 
these animals having been slain here by one of the McCarthys, after a desperate 




encounter while hunting. In the reign of Elizabeth, Donough M'Carthy 
commenced the building before us, on the most magnificent scale. It occupies 
four sides, a quadrangle, 120 feet in length by 80 in breadth, three stories high, 
flanked at each angle by a strong square tower, of four stories : each story in 
the main or centre portion has three windows. The quoins, mouldings, belts, 
and ornamental portions, are of hewn stone. The only portions which seem to 
have stooped before the power of three centuries are the battlements, which have 
fallen. The occasion of its being incomplete is stated to have been a represent- 
ation to Queen Elizabeth that this castle was a place of very dangerous importance 
to belong to a private subject, and was neither more nor less than a strong regular 
fortress ; upon which the Lords of the Council in England issued an order to have 
the works stopped. The people of the vicinity call the place M'Donough's Folly, 
from the vast extent of preparation, and a want of means to complete what he 
commenced, which would relieve the government from the charge of preventing 
the completion of this noble pile. Close by is a small stream, called the Brogeen, 
or Blue Pool, so designated, I am informed, from a load of coloured glass 
having fallen into it, while on its way to adorn the windows of the castle ; and 
glass being proverbially brittle, was smashed, of course, and the particles remain- 
ing in the bed of the river, gave a blue tinge to the water. 

The town of Kanturk is small, but very rapidly extending in size and com- 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER, 



159 



mercial prosperity, under the immediate superintendence of Mr. Tierney, the ex- 
cellent agent of the proprietor, the Earl of Egmont. 

Kanturk was the birthplace of that most distinguished lawyer, Barry Yelverton, 
Lord Avonmore. 

Distant only a few miles is Newmarket, built on a small stream, that falls into 
the Oondala. It consists principally of two streets, crossing each other at right 
angles. The inhabitants number above 1000. The ancient name of this place 
was Ahatrasne, or " the place of the ford," which ford is now superseded by 
the commodious bridge near the entrance of the town. James I. made a grant 
of the property, of which this town is part, to the Aldworth family, part of the 
forfeited estates of the M'Auliffes. There was a patent for holding a market — 
whence the name Newmarket, confirmed by Charles II. A conflict took place at 
Scarteen, in 1822, between the military commanded by Captain Kippock and 
Lieut. Green, and the Whiteboys, in which the latter were defeated. — Handsome 
pieces of plate testified the value of the officers' intrepidity and conduct in the 
minds of the gentry of the district. 

Newmarket House, the seat of R. R. Aldworth, Esq., lord of the manor, is a 
spacious mansion, of cut limestone, well situated in a finely planted and picturesque 
demesne. Some of the trees are very aged : an avenue of ash is said to have been 
planted in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. 

This town is celebrated for having been the birthplace of the Right Hon . John 
Philpot Curran, late Master of the Rolls in Ireland : the house is represented in 
the accompanying engraving. 




160 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



THE LEGEND OF MEALANE. 

A mile west of Newmarket is a beautiful glen, steep and richly wooded. The 
Aundaluagh, or " double rapid river," rushes between ihe interstices of the two 
steep hills which form the glen. On the west bank are the remains of an old castle, 
the ancient residence of the M'Auliffe's, a tribe who possessed a vast tract of 
country in those parts ; and at a considerable distance is pointed out Mealane's 
Rock, a bare projecting cliff, in which is a cavity. This castle has its legend — a 
romantic one, indeed : — 

" Oh ! when wilt thou return 

To thy spirit's early love, 
To the freshness of the morn, 

To the stillness of the grove ? 
Still hy thy father's board 

There is kept a place for thee ; 
And by thy smile restor'd, 

Joy round the hearth shall be." 

" Who was like to Mealane, the fair-haired daughter of M'Auliffe ? Whose 
step was lighter in the dance ? whose voice sweeter in the song ? Who was like 
to Mealane ? " 

Years have passed since the events I am about to relate. The proud wall has 
crumbled into a mass of ruin, and the proud race who held the lordly towers are 
extinguished, yet never has the beauty of Mealane been surpassed, or the graceful 
figure of the damsel equalled. 

" My daughter shall be the bride of a hero," the aged sire would say. " Now 
that old age hath stricken my limbs, and years rolled heavy on my nimble feet, I 
can no longer wield the spear or chase the fleet-flying stag ; but as God has not 
blessed me with sons I may be the grandsire of them. My Mealane shall be the 
bride of a hero." These words were not spoken unheard ; they were echoed abroad 
by Fame, and the surpassing loveliness of the " Lily of the Valley," as she was 
commonly called, and the wide-spread possessions of the M'Auliffes (to all of which 
she was sole heiress), soon procured her many suitors ; but one was preferred to 
all : he was O'Herlahy, chief of Carrigduve. Having found favour in the eyes of 
the fair ladye, the suitor next urged his claim before the grey -haired sire. The 
elder thus answered his deep entreaties : — 

" The Lord of Blackrock is young in years ; his name is not known in the 
council, nor his prowess in the song of the bard. Go into a foreign land, 
O'Herlahy : let thy sword be fleshed in the blood of the infidel, and I will grant 
thee my daughter. Mealane shall be a hero's bride." 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 161 

The heart of O'Herlahy murmured in silence at the delay, but he could not 
refuse the terms. The spirit of the sire was as unyielding as the stubborn rock, 
that, thrown in the midst of the ocean, stands unmoved in the blast : the waves 
lash it in vain, and howling at their own impotence, they burst at its feet ; or, 
having mounted up the craggy sides, tumble back into their liquid bed. To Spain 
the warrior went. He led the hardy sons of Erin ; they joined the gallant troops 
led by Fernando to crush the Moorish infidel, but at the walls of Grenada the brave 
O'Herlahy was taken. Five years he lingered in captivity: he thought of 
his absent country ; and the image of his love was never forgotten. The favourite 
of the Algerine Dey become enamoured with the noble prisoner ; she procured his 
freedom, and would have accompanied his flight, but the love he bore another 
forbade : he returned to Spain and had revenge on his captors. His companions 
were fired by his example ; they rushed into the thickest of the battle, and ruin and 
death marked their gory career. The Moors fled, never again to rule in Spain. 
The king embraced the brave youth, and gifted O'Herlahy with the proudest order 
of Spanish chivalry. With joy he returned to Ireland; no obstacle between him 
and the possession of his love. 

It was towards the hour of noon ; at the castle of M'Auliffe every thing be- 
tokened joy and hilarity. From the opposite side of the Aundalough the hills rose 
covered with waving forests, and parties of pleasure were either roving the shady 
alleys for a walk, or traversing in search of game ; a number of cooks were hard at 
work in the ample kitchen of the castle ; parties in groups were arriving every mo- 
ment at the portal ; and the major-domo, with his liveried attendants, was marshal- 
ling each to his apartment, who were bidden guests to witness the marriage of the fair 
heiress of M'Auliffe to the brave chief of Carrigduve, O'Herhaly. Dressed in her 
nuptial robe of virgin white, the lovely Mealane appeared to have well deserved 
the sobriquet of the " Lily of the Valley." Her fair flaxen hair, secured by a 
golden chaplet, gave a stately air to her graceful bust ; her blue eyes sparkled with 
uncommon vivacity, and her slight figure, as it glanced to and fro, reminded one 
of the graceful bendings of the flower after which she was named ; her cheek was 
pale — rather too pale, but all said that the situation in which she stood occasioned 
the total absence of colour. Once or twice during the afternoon she was observed 
to start suddenly, and when uncalled for cry out, " I come! I come!" As if to calm 
her spirits she said she would try a short walk. O'Herlahy rose to accompany 
her. 

" No, my dear lord ; I bid you stay," she said. 

" What ! may I not go with you ?" 

" Not now ; not now," she said mournfully. 

" Nay, then, I will follow you." 

" If you do I go not forth. Abide here till my return." 



162 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

Mealane walked forth, but the evening wind whistled gently down the glen like 
the sighing of unseen spirits, and yet she came not back. The clergyman who was 
to perform the ceremony arrived, and the bridegroom was waiting — but no bride. 
A peasant who had just returned from the opposite side of the Aundaluagh, said 
he saw a white figure near a large tree ; but when he spoke he received no answer, 
and went on his way wondering. O'Herlahy buckled on his trusty armour, and 
was resolved to win his bride or perish. He went forth alone ; the night was still 
and lonely. Every rock, tree, hill, and glen was streaming with the bright light 
which beamed from the full moon ; the heavens were clear- and studded with 
myriads of glittering stars, which twinkled in the intensity of blue sky. O'Herlahy 
paused on the bank of the Aundaluagh, and gazed on a panorama of beauty ; yet 
his heart was ill at ease for the loss of his beloved, and the tears came to his eyes 
as turning round he looked on the castle of M'Auliffe, crowning the hill ; lights 
streamed from every window, yet sad were the hearts within. He crossed the 
stream and approached the oak tree, the oldest in these parts. A figure in white 
reclined beneath the branches ; he stole cautiously. " Mealane ! " At the sound 
of his voice the figure rose up, and waving her white hands to bid farewell, was 
borne along the course of the stream, as though under the guidance of some powerful 
spirit, and fled towards the rock, which opened to receive her. It closed imme- 
diately, and since there has been no direct trace of the fair Mealane, but often the 
nightly wanderer sees the fluttering of the white drapery about Mealane's Rock. 
O'Herlahy married a less supernatural lady, and the lands of M'Auliffe passed to 
strange hands. 



Close to Bantyre Cross the river is met by Ballymaquirk Bridge, near which 
is Nashville, the seat of William Leader, Esq. There are very good mills at Nash- 
ville, on the north bank, which, for a considerable distance, is enriched by the 
extensive plantations on Mr. Leader's estate. The land along the river is not very 
productive ; but the tenants seem contented, and speak highly of the Leader family, 
who are the principal proprietors in this district. Other seats near are Minehill, 
J. Wallis, Esq., and the Glebe, the Rev. Mr. Bevan. The water is of moderate 
depth for a considerable distance. On the north bank is Dromagh, the estate of 
Nicholas Philpot Leader, Esq. There are extensive collieries here, which afford 
employment to a great number. Dromagh colliery has been worked more than a 
century, and the father of the present owner expended a large sum in improving 
the works connected with the colliery, to render the mine available : they are now 
meeting a very extensive demand. There are other collieries here, at Clonbanin, 
Dominagh, and Colclough, in full work ; and if the projected navigation from 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 



163 



Mallow had been perfected, the country along the line of Blackwater would be 
enjoying fuel at a very moderate rate, and the inhabitants of the entire line 
bettered by the intercourse necessarily created. The description of coal is not 
unlike that found in Kilkenny, very sulphureous for the greater part, and as bitu- 
minous in quality, but it is rather more lasting. In some places the coal is found 
near the surface where the veins are thin, and gradually widen as they strike 
downward. The coal is generally enclosed in a case of ferruginous slate, which 
splits into plates resembling house slates, but being of a brittle quality, is not 
fit for use as such. Some veins of excellent coal have been found. The 
culm which covers large coal is considered good, and is useful for forges and 
burning lime. Distant about a mile north is Dromagh Castle. It consists of a 




quadrangle, flanked by four circular towers, one at each corner. It was the chief 
seat of the O'Keeffes in former days, and the entrance is by an archway, with small 
towers in the walls on each hand. The entire remains are clad with ivy, which 
considerably increases the picturesque effect by diminishing the regularity of 
the building. One of the towers, fitted up, makes a comfortable dwelling. 
The greater portion of the building is in good repair, and used by Mr. Leader as 
his farmyard offices. 

The river winds for some time, and passes Fort Grady, formerly the residence 
of Lord Guillamore's family, a venerable mansion, now occupied by a farmer. 
Near this is a fort, planted with trees, whence it derives its name. We now behold 
the Kilcormy mountains, with those of Mushera. 

The country considerably improves as we approach Millstreet. On the south 
bank of a small tributary, the Finaw, and adjacent to the spot where it joins the 



164 



HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



Blackwater, is Drisliane Castle, and close by the mansion of H. Wallis, Esq., who 
is the proprietor of this estate. 




This castle was built by Dermot Mac Carthy, son of Teague, Lord Muskerry, 
who died in 1448. It is of very ancient structure, and bears evident traces of 
having been a stronghold. Its proximity to the strong castles in its vicinity leads 
to the conjecture that it must have had other works for defence than now appear. 
From the summit a splendid view is obtained ; the eye travels along the ridge of 
mountains from that of Claragh, back of the castle, behind Millstreet, to Killarney, 
with its charming lakes, twenty miles distant, and takes in the majestic Mangerton, 
the Paps, the wooded Toomies, and the high reeks of Macgillicuddy. Among a 
few handsome seats close by are Coole House, H. O'Donnell, Esq. ; Mount 
Leader, H. Leader, Esq. ; and Rathduane, J. E. M'Carthy, Esq. 

After a short distance we reach Millstreet, situate on the south bank of the 
Blackwater. The village, a century back, consisted of a small inn, a mill, and 
some half dozen cabins. Of the inn mention is made in a letter written by Derrick 
the poet, in 1760, and his account was also evidence of the desire of the peasantry 
to show their title to respectability. He says, " The inn at Millstreet, however 
indifferent, is a perfect palace compared to the spot where we slept the night 
before. The rain continuing to pour heavily, we stopped at a wretched hovel 
on the confines of an extensive, bleak, rugged mountain, where they collect the 
dues of a turnpike. They showed us into a miserable cabin, in which there was 
something that wore the appearance of a bed. Mine host of the cottage, whose 
name was Haly, had more importance than a grandee of Spain. He told us that 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 165 

there was not a better man in Cork or Kerry than himself; that he was well 
acquainted with the Earl of Shelburn and Sir John Colthurst, to both of whom he 
was nearly allied, and, therefore, he never let either of these families pay turnpike, 
as he wished to keep up family connections." 

This country once belonged to the O'Learys, who were lords of several castles, 
and the district called Iveleary. There are descendants of the family still 
living ; one of the race, no ignoble representative, was accustomed, some sixty or 
seventy years back, to take his station on the high road leading into Millstreet, 
and invite all comers to partake of his hospitality. He is represented as a fine 
specimen of an Irish gentleman, of venerable benevolent appearance. He was a 
justice of peace, and one whose word was law. His look bespoke authority. 
He suffered no stranger of respectable appearance to pass through Millstreet, 
without introducing himself to him and courteously requesting the pleasure of 
his company to discuss his good cheer. 

In the Rev. H. Townsend's Survey of Cork, he gives an instance of the hospi- 
tality of O'Leary : — Some friends of his arrived at Millstreet, and being very tired 
wished to retire early to rest. O'Leary, who was acquainted with one of the party, 
prevailed on them to sup at his house. They went with a fixed resolve neither to 
drink or remain longer than was necessary for the repast ; but such was O'Leary's 
power of pleasing, that they willingly prolonged their stay till morning, and were 
led imperceptibly from one bottle to another till it became no easy matter to dis- 
cover where they had their lodgings. A worthy scion of the honourable house — 
McCarthy O'Leary, Esq. — resides at Coomlegaun in the neighbourhood, and is 
owner of a large portion of the town. Millstreet has vastly increased, containing 
more than three hundred houses, and has a considerable traffic, its chief importance 
being derived from the establishment of a military station. 

Claragh now stretches its conical head to the sky, as we bend from the west 
northwards, by Nohaval, on the verge of the counties of Cork and Kerry. Near 
the ruins of the church of Nohaval, which are close to the bank of the Blackwater, 
is the stump of a round tower, which, with the church, was dedicated to St. 
Finian. 

NOHAVAL. 

About seven miles to the north-west of Millstreet, on the borders of Cork and 
Kerry, where the Blackwater, as yet a slender shallow rivulet, forms the boundary 
between the two counties, the locality of Nohavaldaly, so called to distinguish it 
from another Nohaval between Cork and Kinsale, possesses some remains con- 
necting it with past times, but now so ruinous as to divest them of much interest, 
even to the antiquary. Smith, the county historian, states that the remains, or, 



166 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 

as he calls it, " the stump " of one of the ancient round towers, so stubborn and 
impracticable an object of controversy to the Hibernian race of Oldbuck, stood 
there in his time. In tracing the course of our noble river, we could not pro- 
perly omit the examination of a place which must, as evident by such remains, 
have been consecrated, in times of earliest date, to a ritual amongst the most 
ancient of the forms into which paganism was divided ; but, alas, for the accuracy of 
our worthy topographer ! and he was generally a writer well informed, painstaking, 
and correct, but in this instance the good man slumbered or erred. Our search, 
and it was neither one of negligence nor carelessness, left us shaken in our faith in 
his authority. 

Nohaval, or, as it is pronounced, Nochovail, occupies an eminence above the 
river at the left or Cork side. It is evidently a favourite burial place. Within a 
stone wall enclosure stands a low ruin of an oblong form, the relic of the old 
church of St. Finian, the patron and founder of the monastic establishment of Innis- 
fallen, — " sweet Innisfallen ! " at Killarney. All traces of the doors and windows 
have been destroyed, it cannot, therefore, be said to what age its construction may 
have belonged. Outside the cemetery, walls are traceable of another structure, 
which had been apparently a dwelling, and probably of the castellated kind ; but 
so little of it has survived the waste of time and injury, that this can only be 
merely conjectural. With the exception of this ruin, and that of the old church, 
there are no other vestiges of building here, consequently nothing of the turain, or 
tower, could we discover. The castellet was, according to a report in the neigh- 
bourhood, standing to a considerable height about fifty years ago, and, it strikes 
us, must have been the stump spoken of by Smith, who doubtless never saw it, 
but took his report from those badly qualified to inform him. 

For several miles of its easterly course, after leaving Nohaval, the river Black - 
water pursues its way through a plain and uninteresting country, the line of 
mountains extending from Killarney to Claragh, and Muskerry still fully in view. 
Previously to its junction with the Finaw (fair river), near Millstreet, it passes at 
the foot of the gentle acclivity on which stand the ruins of Drumsicane Castle, a 
structure once appertaining to the O'Keeffes, an ancient family, attainted at the 
Revolution. The building was standing entire at the commencement of the last 
century, but was soon after destroyed. 

The remains consist of a large quadrangle, flanked with a round tower at each of 
the angles, and enclosing a baivn, within which once stood a lofty keep, not a stone 
of which now remains upon another. A few miles to the west the river is in- 
creased by the junction of the Alio, or Dalua (the stream of swans) ; and thence- 
forth, the country losing its mountain aspect, and every where exhibiting that of 
improvement and ornamented culture, the river glides through lands, gradually 
increasing in scenic beauty, until it approaches the town of Mallow. 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 167 



Higher up, the river is crossed by a fine bridge called Duncannon Bridge. The 
road lately made by direction of Government, who have taken this district in 
hands, conducts from Killarney to Mallow over this bridge. A bleak mountain 
district called Ballycushlane, stretches west along the banks, with fine plantations 
or improvements visible. There is a sporting lodge of C. G-. Fairfield, Esq., who 
has made some improvements in this region ; and Derreen, a lodge of J. Bateman, 
Esq. At some distance there is a rising ground with the remains of an old 
building ; but so slight are the traces, that whether church or castle it is impossible 
to say. The soil in the vicinity is barren and waste, but around the ruin are some 
stunted trees, and the rubbish of lime and stone created a spot where wild weeds 
find luxuriant vegetation, and thrive undisturbed. It would require no small 
degree of imagination to build a tower on these prostrate stones, and people the 
casemented chamber with many a lord and lady gay, drain the bogs and surround 
the entire with rich plantations, in which the thrush and blackbird might pipe 
their morning hymns, or the gentle robin chant his evening lay. 

At Ardnagragh are the ruins of Desmond's chapel, which is close to the church- 
yard of Killanamana. Here were interred the remains of the great Earl of Des- 
mond, styled, in history, Ingens rebellibus exemplar. His death-blow was given 
near this place. The account by Smith* is, " The Earl having taken a prey of 
cattle was pursued to Kerry, near the side of a mountain, and a little grove, 
through which one of the pursuers observed a fire not far off. One of the company 
on this information being sent to learn who were there, upon his return informed 
them there were five or six people in an old house ; whereupon they determined 
to attack them, and entering it found only an old man, the others being fled ; when 
one Daniel Kelly (who was afterwards hanged at Tyburn, although rewarded 
by Queen Elizabeth) almost cut off the Earl's arm with his sword, and repeating 
the blow over his head, the old man cried out, desiring them to save his life, for 
that he was the Earl of Desmond. Kelly upon this desisted, but the effusion of blood 
causing him to grow faint, and being unable to travel, he bade him prepare for 
death, and on the 11th of November, 1583, struck off his head, which was sent by 
the Earl of Ormond into England for a present to the Queen, who caused it to be 
fixed on London Bridge, and his body, after eight weeks' hiding, was buried at 
Killanamana." The castles of Kilcushnan and Bally M'Adam, not far from this, 
were strongholds of the Fitzgeralds of Desmond, who had so unfraternal a feeling, 
that one brother would not permit the other to pass safely through his lands. 

A wide tract of uncultivated country extends on both sides of the river, which 
now forms the boundary between Cork and Kerry. This country is called Pobble 



* Cork, ii. 64, 



168 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE 



O'Keeffe, being in the possession formerly of the people of O'Keeffe, who was 
chieftain of this wild territory. 

POBBLE O'KEEFFE. 

In the year 1641, the mountain pasture lands of Pobble O'Keeffe, in the barony 
of Duhallow and county of Cork, were forfeited by Daniel O'Keeffe, an Irish 
Catholic, and were seized and sequestered to the Crown, in consequence of his 
participation in the rebellion which broke out in that year. 

It appears that these lands (1655), containing by the Down survey 5981 acres 
profitable land, plantation measure, were not set out to any adventurer, soldier, or 
other person, under the provisions^ of the acts of settlement and explanation ; 
but were entered in the book of survey and distribution for the county of Cork, 
as an undisposed-of forfeiture, and charged in their Majesty's rentals, under the 
name of the Mountain Pasture of Pobble O'Keeffe, with the annual quit-rent of 
91/. 16*. 6d. 

On the 12th of February (32 Car. 2. 1670), these lands were granted in custo- 
diam, for the use of the then farmers of the revenue, who were entitled by their 
grant from the Crown to the profits of the undisposed lands. 

By an inquisition taken at Cork on the 26th of August, 1698, the same Daniel 
O'Keeffe was found to be in possession, on the 13th of February, 1688, of about 
6000 acres of mountain pasture situated in the barony of Duhallow and county of 
Cork, which from their contents and situation are supposed to be the same as those 
which were returned as forfeited by him in 1641. 

In the year 1689, the Company for making hollow Sword Blades in England 
obtained a patent from the Trustees of forfeited Estates for nine different town 
lands in the barony of Duhallow and county of Cork, each town land charged 
with quit-rent to these denominations. The mountain pasture of Pobble O'Keeffe 
was attached and charged with 90/. 16s. 6\d. per annum, and still remains in 
charge on the revenue rent-roll, as a denomination of land granted to the Com- 
pany of hollow Sword Blade Makers. But it appears that in the year 1707 this 
company, after several legal proceedings had been taken on the subject, proved by 
affidavit that they did not purchase this mountain pasture, but that the denomina- 
tion was entered in their deed of conveyance without their privity or consent ; 
and they also alleged that the trustees had no power to sell it, and disclaimed all 
title to it : and therefore the said company obtained an order of the court dis- 
charging them from the same, and all rents and arrears due thereout. 

In the year 1717, Lewis Jones, Esq. petitioned the then Lords Justices and 
Privy Council of Ireland for a lease of these lands for 99 years, at a rent of 50/. 
per annum ; and among other matters stated that the Crown had never received 



TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 169 

any benefit from them. This petition was referred to the Commissioners of the 
Revenue to report the state and value of the lands, and after a variety of reports 
from the Commissioners' clerk of the quit -rents, and collector of Mallow, it was at 
length agreed to give a lease of them at 86/. per annum. In pursuance thereof, 
and under the provisions of the 2 Ann. cap. 8. sect. 2. the then Lords Justices 
and Privy Council of Ireland by deed of lease, bearing date 25th March, 1721, 
demised them to Jones at 86/. per annum. 

It appears that Lord Orrery kept possession of part of these lands, and that in 
consequence several proceedings were instituted against him in the Court of 
Exchequer ; but it does not appear that Lewis Jones or his tenant Mr. Duggan 
Cronin 'ever got into possession of those parts of the lands of Pobble O'Keeffe 
which were withheld by Lord Orrery ; and Mr. Cronin paid only 30/. per annum 
as a proportionate part of the quit-rent for that part of the lands which came into 
his possession. 

Mr. Jones's and Mr. Cronin's lease expired in 1821, but the latter remained in 
possession up to the year 1828, when the crown again resumed possession of it, 
and commenced the making of the new roads and land improvements, in 1833. 

A village was soon built on the eastern bank of the Blackwater, over which 
there is a neat bridge of two elliptic arches, on the road to Castle Island. This is 
King Williamstown. It contains one handsome school-house in the Elizabethan 
style ; one hotel, a dispensary, one shop, (the proprietor of which, in consequence 
of the place having of late become such a thoroughfare, has amassed 200/. in a very 
short space of time,) with ten houses for tradesmen and labourers ; it is also well 
supplied with water. About ten minutes' walk from the village there is a neat 
house and an extensive farm-yard situated on the Model Farm, the residence of the 
respectable agent and skilful farmer, Mr. Michael Boyan ; also several neat farm- 
houses have been built, and others are in progress of building. The improvements 
were commenced in 1833. Forty-six miles of new road have been made, and several 
bridges built. 400 acres of sterile bog and mountain have been brought into 
tillage, and good crops of potatoes, turnips, rye, and oats, have been produced. 
But the most gratifying circumstance of all is, that from 300 to 400 men every 
day are usefully employed in building, draining, and fencing. The effect of the 
improvement in the appearance of the district is almost miraculous : the conse- 
quences on the people is almost the same. 

The progress of change is thus described by Mr. Griffith : — " At the com- 
mencement of the works the people flocked to them from all quarters, seeking em- 
ployment at any rate that might be offered. Their general appearance bespoke 
extreme poverty ; their looks were haggard, and their clothing wretched ; they 
rarely possessed any instrument of husbandry beyond a very small ill-made spade, 
and, as a consequence, it followed that nearly the whole face of the country was 




170 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE TO THE RTVER BLACKWATER. 

unimproved and in a state of nature. But since the completion of the roads, rapid 
strides have been made towards cultivation and improvement ; upwards of sixty 
new lime-kilns were built, for the purpose of burning lime for agriculture ; within 
the two preceding years, carts, ploughs, and harrows of superior construction 
became common ; new houses of a better class were built in great numbers in the 
vicinity of the new roads, and also in the adjacent villages of Newmarket, Castle 
Island, and Abbeyfeale ; new enclosures of mountain farms have been made in 
every direction ; and this country, which at no distant period was the scene of 
lawless outrage, and one of the strongholds of what might be termed the rebel 
army, quickly became perfectly tranquil, and exhibited a scene of industry and 
exertion at once pleasing and remarkable. To the credit of the people be it told, 
that a large portion of the money received by them for labour on the roads was 
husbanded with care, and subsequently laid out in building substantial houses, and 
in the purchase of cattle and implements of husbandry ; and numerous examples 
might be adduced of poor labourers, possessing neither money, houses, nor lands 
when first employed on the public roads, who, within a short period, were able to 
take farms', build houses, and stock their lands with cows and young cattle." 

What a blessing it would be for Ireland if Government would, under the authority 
of an act of parliament, take all the waste lands in this kingdom and treat them in 
precisely the same manner as those of Pobble O'Keeffe ! 



About half a mile north of King Williamstown, in a bog, is a small spring 
overgrown by rushes. It trickles down in three small streams, forming no great 
impediment to human footsteps. The hare springs across it with ease, and the 
sportsman jumps from bank to bank. Who that beheld the broad river bearing 
tall ships into Youghal bay would recognise this tiny rivulet as the commencement 
of that truly noble stream, the Blackwater ! 

The Blackwater at the source forms three branches, each from fifteen to twenty 
perches in length ; each branch is a deep ravine, and at the point of meeting are 
some ruins, apparently of an ancient habitation, moss-covered and prostrate. The 
land on the Cork side is low and flat, while that on the Kerry is high and bold. 
The district round is covered with heath. This glen is called Reylan tee an 
Earla, from the Earl of Desmond having taken shelter here in his flight. 




Ballyderoon Castle. 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



The River at Fermoy (Frontispiece). 

The Knockmeledown Mountains, from the Blackwater (Title- 
Map .... 
Clock Gate, Youghal - 
Tower at Youghal - 
Youghal Collegiate Church, Exterior 
Youghal Collegiate Church, Interior 

, Tomb in - 

Raleigh's House - 

Yew Trees - 

Round Tower at Ardmore 
St. Declan's Well 
Remains of Rhincrew Abbey 
Temple Michael - 

Interior of Rhincrew Abbey 
Statue of St. Molanfide 
Tomb of Raymond le Gros 



Page 



1 
11 

13 
14 
14 
15 
16 
17 
27 
29 
31 
32 
33 
33 
34 



1 72 ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Page 

Ballinatra, seat of R. Smith, Esq. - - - - - 34 

Ancient Castle of Strancally - - - . - 36 

Strancally, seat of J. Keily, Esq. - - - . - 37 

Dromana, seat of Lord Stuart de Deeies - - - - 38 

Tourin, seat of Sir R. Musgrave - - - - - 41 

Melleray Abbey - - - - - - 43 

Lismore Castle, seat of Duke of Devonshire - - - - 51 

Weir at Lismore - - - ■• - -50 

Gateway at Ballysaggartmore - - - - - 58 

Ballysaggartmore, seat of A. Usher, Esq. - - - - 59 

Glencairn Abbey - - 60 

Macollop Castle - - - - - - 61 

Moore Park, seat of Earl of Mountcashel - - - - 63 

Brian Hegarty - - - - - -72 

Ruins of Lisclash Castle - - - - - - 77 

Ruins of Carrig-a-brick Castle - - - - 78 

Fermoy - - - - - - -81 

Cave at Mitchelstown - - - - - -85 

Curtain in Caves at Mitchelstown - - - - - 87 

Laibhe Colloch - - - - - - 91 

Plans of subterranean Caves - 101 

Castle Hyde, seat of John Hyde, Esq. - - - - -113 

Doorway in Creg Castle - - - - - -116 

Ballyhooly Castle - - - - - - 117 

Spenser's Oak - - - - - -118 

Remains of Kilcolman Castle - - - - - 122 

Remains of Bridgetown Abbey - - - - -125 

Monument of the Roche Family - - - - -126 

Monaminy Castle, seat of W. Barry, Esq. ... - 130 

Carrigoon House, seat of Dr. Curtin - - - - - 132 

Mallow Castle - - - - - - 134 

Mansion of Sir Denham Norreys, Bart. ----- 139 

An Irish Cabin - - - - - - 140 

Tomb of David de Barry - - - - - - 146 

Drumaneen Castle - - - - - - 147 

Clonmeen Church - - - - - -154 

Kanturk Castle - - - - - - 158 

Birthplace of Curran ..-.__ 159 

Dromagh Castle - - - - - -163 

Drishane Castle - - - - - - 164 



The Illustrations are chiefly executed under the superintendence of Mr. Thomas Armstrong. 



INDEX. 



A. 

Page 
Abercromby, Sir Robert, Bart. - - 83 

Affane, battle at - - - 39 

Anderson, Jobn, Esq., builds Fermoy - 81 
Anikisba, seat of P. Nagle, Esq. - 133 

Angling on tbe Blackwater - - 53 

Ardmore, Round Tower and Antiquities at 27 
Ardsallagh - - - - 53 

Ardnagragh, burial-place of Earl of Des- 
mond - - - - 167 
Awenmore, or Avonmore, ancient name of 

Blackwater - - - 2 

Avonmore, Barry Yelverton, Lord - 159 

Awbeg, the Mulla of Spenser - - 124 

B. 

Ballyinn, seat of P. Foley, Esq. - - 58 

Ballinatra, seat of R. Smyth, Esq. - 34 
Ballygelane, seat of N. P. O'Gorman, 

Esq., Q.C. - - - - 46 

Ballygiblin, seat of Sir W.W. Becher, Bart. 1 5 1 

Ballysaggartmore, seat of A. Usher, Esq. 58 

Ballyduff Bridge - - - 60 

Bally gaily, seat of G.H. Jackson, Esq. - 60 

Ballyderoon Castle - - - 63 

Ballynadroghid, or Bridgetown Abbey - 125 

Ballyhooly Castle - - - 116 

Ballymagooly - - - - 132 

Ballymacmoy House - 131 

Ballymaquirk Bridge - - - 162 

Bally volane, seat of J. Pyne, Esq. - 84 



E. Murphy, P.P. 



Bantyre Bridge 

Cross, Rev. 

, Battle at 

Blackwater, advantages to be derived from 

opening the navigation 
Brennan the Robber - 
Broghill, Lord, spirited letter from 
Buttevant Castle, Legend of, Church, 

Chapel, Abbey of - 



C. 



Page 
154 
154 
154 



Cairn Thierna, Legend 

Cappoquin 

House, seat 



of Sir Richard 



Keane, Bart. - 
Cappoquin to Lismore ... 
Carrig-a-brick Castle - 
Careysville, seat of E. Carey, Esq. 
Castle Hyde, seat of John Hyde, Esq. - 
Castlecor, seat of Edward Deane Freeman, 

Esq. ----- 
Carrig, seat of W. Franks, Esq. - 
Carrigoon, seat of Charles Curtin, Esq. 

M.D. 

Carrignaconny Castle, seat of H. Foot, Esq. 129 
Castle Magner, Anecdote concerning - 155 
Castle Lyons - - - - 84 
Castle Kiffin, seat of E. B. Thornhill, Esq. 131 
Castletown Roche - - - 127 
Chalybeate Water - - - 55 
at Grange - - 103 



55 
80 
53 

145 



90 
42 

42 
46 
78 
63 
113 

151 
132 

132 



174 



INDEX. 



Page 
Chalybeate water near Quartertown - 147 
Cherrymount, seat of Captain Parker - 33 
Clashmore, seat of Earl of Huntingdon - 35 
Clifford, seat of B. Lloyd, Esq. - - 129 

Cloghleagh Castle - - - 64 

, Enchanted Horse of, Legend 64 

Clonmeen Castle, property of George Gre- 

han, Esq. - - - 153 

Clonmeen Church - - - 154 

Collieries at Dromagh - - - 163 

Collis family - - - - 82 

Conna Castle - - - - 84 

Convamore, seat of Earl of Listowel - 117 
Convents at Fermoy - - - 82 

Coyne and Livery prohibited - - 119 

Creg, residence of Mrs. Stewart -116 

Croker, Crofton - - - 28. 127 

Curran, Right Hon. J. P., Birth-place of - 159 



Daniel the Outlaw and Margaret Kelly, 

Legend of - - - - 155 
Desmond, Old Countess of - - 39 
Derrick the Poet, Letter from - - 162 
Drishane Castle, seat of H. Wallis, Esq. 164 
Dromagh Castle - - - 163 
Dromana, seat of Lord Stuart de Decies - 38 
Dromore, seat of A. Newman, Esq. - 151 
Drumaneen Castle - - - 147 
Duncannon Bridge - - - 167 
Duntahun, residence of Thomas Green, 
Esq. 102 



Ecles, Mr., Grave of - - 40 

Eden Hill, seat of T. Carpenter, Esq. - 147 
Enchanted Horse of Cloghleagh, Legend 64 



Farmers, useful hints to 
Fermoy 



- 140 

- 78 



Page 
Fermoy, seats in the environs of - 83 

to Mallow - - - 102 

Fion Macoul, Legend - - 92 

Fishery Act, recent, short abstract of - 52 

Flower Hill, seat of Barry Drew, Esq. - 59 

Follower, an old, account of - 105 

Fort- William, seat of J. Gumbleton, Esq. 59 

Finnisk River - - - 39 

Funcheon River - - - 64 



Esq. 



Garryduff, seat of H. Garde, Esq. 

Glandelane Mills - 

Glenbeg, seat of G. Bennet Jackson, Esq. 

Glencairn Abbey, seat of G. P. Bushe, Esq. 

Glenmore Waterfall 

Grange Hill, seat of W. F. Austen, 

Farm - 

Griffith, Mr., celebrated engineer 
Gurteen, seat of Mrs. Campion - 
Gurtmore, E. Foot, Esq. 

, Rev. P. Townsend 

, Rock and cave of 

Glendyne - 

Gumbleton, family residences of 



H. 

Hayman family - 
Hall, Mr. and Mrs. 
Haunted Huntsman, Legend of 
Hyde Family 

I & J. 

Inglis on the Blackwater 
Lismore 



33 

63 

60 

60 

59 

102 

102 

169 

116 

153 

153 

153 

35 

59 



- 25 

4 

- 67 

- 114 



4 
51 



Jennings, Mr., experiment on Bar of 
Youghal - •• - - 12 



K. 



Kanturk Castle 
■ Town 



158 
158 



INDEX. 



175 





Page 


Kilbarry, seat of Henry Wigmore, Esq. 


- 62 


Kilcor, seat of Cornelius O'Brien, Esq. 


- 84 


Kilcolman - 


- 122 


Killavullen - 


- 131 


Kilmurry, seat of Thomas Grant, Esq. 


- 62 


Kilshanick, seat of E. Roche, Esq. 


- 84 


Killura, seat of Cornelius Linahan, Esq. 


- 131 


Kilnatoora Castle 


- 31 


King Williamstown 


- 169 


Knockmeledown mountain 


- 40 


Kingston, Earl of 


- 85 


Knights' Templars 


- 31 


Knockninoss, battle at - 


- 146 


Kyrle, Sir Richard 


- 155 



Laibhe Colloch, or Hag's Bed 
Legend of Mealane - 

Legendary Tales - - 

Leprehaun's Bottle, Legend of the Hag's 

Bed - 
Lismore - - 

Castle - 

Cathedral .... 

Weirs at, advantages of opening 

navigation - 

to Fermoy ... 



91 

160 

92 

95 

47 
48 
54 

55 

57 

77 

84 

117 

151 

150 

35 



Lisclash Castle - 

Lisnegar, seat of Lord Riversdale 

Listowel, Earl and Countess of 

Loghert Castle - 

Longueville, seat of J. Longfield, Esq. 

Loughtane - 



M. 



Macollop Castle, property of Captain Barry 6 1 
Mallow to the Source of the Blackwater 147 
Mallow and its environs - - 133 

Castle, seat of Sir D. J. Norreys, Bart. 134 

Marston, seat of R. Gumbleton, Esq. - 61 
M'Auliffe Castle, Legend of Mealane - 160 
Millstreet - - - - 164 

Mineral Spa at Mallow - - - 137 



Page 
Minerals near Lismore - - - 55 
Mitchell sfort, seat of Brazier Mitchell, Esq. 84 
Mitchelstown Caves - - - 85 
Molana - - - - - 33 
Molanfide, St. - - - - 33 
Monaminy Castle, seat of W. Barry, Esq. 129 
Moore Park, seat of Earl of Mountcashel 63 
Morgan, Lady - - - - 38 
Mount Melleray Abbey - - - 42 
Mount Rivers, seat of M. Hindley, Esq. - 63 
Moygeely, chief seat of Fitzgeralds - 84 
Muckridge House, seat of R. A. Fitzge- 
rald, Esq. - - - 12 
Musgrave, Sir Richard - - - 41 
Myrtle Grove, seat of Col. Faunt - 16 



N, 



Nagle family - - - - 130 
Nashville, seat of William Leader, Esq. - 162 
Newmarket, birthplace of Curran - 159 
Norris, Sir John, Lord President of Mini- 
ster - - - - - 133 
Norreys, Sir D. Jephson, Bart. - - 138 
Nohaval - - - - 165 



O. 



O'Leary 


- 


- 165 


Ollistrune's March 


- 


- 146 


Orrery, Lord, Letter of - 


- 


- 136 



Pobble O'Keeffe 



P. 



Q. 



- 168 



Quartertown, seat of John Dillon Croker, 
Esq. - - - - - 147 



Rahan, Cave at 
Raleigh, Sir Walter 



- 131 

- 18 



176 



INDEX. 



Page 
Rathcormac - - - - 84 

Raths - - - - - 101 

Raymond le Gros, Tomb of - - 34 

Rhincrew Abbey - - - 31 

Rinny, seat of Henry Smyth, Esq. - 117 

Spenser's Oak at - - 118 

Rockforest, seat of Sir J. Cotter, Bart. - 131 
Rockview, seat of Rev. J. Mockler - 77 

Rockforest Lodge, seat of P. Creagh, Esq. 133 
Rose Cottage, seat of M. Leahy, Esq. - 152 
Ruskern Bridge - - - - 153 

S. 

St. Declan's Bed and Well - - 29 

Salterbridge, seat of A. Chearnley, Esq. - 46 
Spenser, Edmund - - - 120 

Spenser's Oak - - - - 118 

Source of the Blackwater - - 170 

Smyths of Ballinatra - - - 34 

Strancally Castle, ruins of - - 36 

, seat of John Keily, Esq. 37 

Sullivan the Whisperer - - 143 

Stuart de Decies, Lord - - - 39 



Temple-Michael, seat of T. Carpenter, Esq. 32 



Templenoe, seat of Lane Hyde, Esq. 
Tivoli, seat of Henry Dennehy, Esq. 
Tourin, seat of Sir Richard Musgrave 
Tourtain, T. Foley, Esq. 
Townsend, Rev. H., Survey of Cork 
Tributaries to the Blackwater River 



Villierstown 



V. 



w. 



Waterpark ... 

Walsh, David, an old follower - 
Waterloo, seat of H. Longfield, Esq. 
Woodbine Hill, seat of J. Roche, Esq. 
Woodview, seat of Col. Uniacke 



Y. 



Youghal, Description of - 

, Advantages to sea-bathers at 

College - 

Collegiate Church 

, Sir Walter Raleigh's House 

to Cappoquin 



Page 
116 
42 
41 
58 
12 
3 



40 



62 

104 
150 

27 
33 



6 
11 
13 
13 
16 
30 



THE END. 



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